Amidst the high-profile glamour of fashion week, new talents come on the scene to show their collections for the first time. We are always excited to see what these fresh perspectives bring to the table—part of the fun of fashion is that it is constantly evolving. We have our eye on designers who not only make amazing clothes but are focusing on local craft, new techniques, and are pushing the boundaries of sustainability. Below, 10 designers who should be on your radar this season
1
Maisie Wilen
Parsons grad Maisie Schloss launched her eponymous brand out of L.A. in June 2019. Schloss formerly worked for Kanye West as a womenswear designer for his brand, Yeezy, and was the first recipient of his creative incubator grant. Known primarily for her fun party looks, she's recently adapted them to be equally comfortable dancing around the house.
2
Kenneth Ize
Nigeria-based, Vienna-born designer Kenneth Ize founded his namesake collection in 2013. He focuses on preserving Nigerian craft by using locally produced fabrics and employing communities in the country. His signature look uses a bright woven cloth called Aso Oke. Ize was a finalist for the LVMH prize in 2019 and Naomi Campbell walked the runway as the finale look of his fall 2020 collection.
3
Chopova Lowena
Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena met while studying at Central Saint Martins. Working out of London, the sustainably focused pair use vintage fabrics sourced in Bulgaria, and then produce their clothes in Bulgaria and England. Chopova Lowena's pleated patchwork skirts have already gained a serious cult following.
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4
Del Core
Showing for the first time at Milan Fashion Week 2021, Daniel Del Core presented his new womenswear collection, Del Core. The designer ran the VIP department of Gucci, dressing celebrities such as Lana del Rey and Bjork. It’s not hard to imagine his eccentric and colorful evening wear looks appearing on a red carpet (virtual or IRL) soon.
5
Charles de Vilmorin
Twenty-four-year-old Charles de Vilmorin has had a blazingly fast career, pandemic notwithstanding. The designer launched his namesake collection in April of 2020 (with quilted jackets inspired by artist Niki de Saint Phalle), and was invited by Alessandro Michele to participate in GucciFest the following November, then presented his first haute couture collection in January 2021. Recently, it was announced that he will fill the top job at the storied French fashion house Rochas. De Vilmorin’s first collection for the house will be spring 2022 and (are you still with us?) he will continue to work on his namesake collection in the meantime.
6
Thebe Magugu
Thebe Magugu hails from South Africa and was the first African designer to take home the coveted LVMH Prize. He celebrates his country's rich cultural heritage in his work, producing his clothing collection in Johannesburg and publishing an annual zine dedicated to ideas and people from South Africa.
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7
Daniel W. Fletcher
After stints at Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Victoria Beckham, and Lanvin, Daniel W. Fletcher is finally striking out on his own. He competed in Netflix's series Next in Fashion last year, making it to the final round and gaining fans for his menswear collections. During London's fall 2021 shows. Fletcher is also currently the artistic director at Fiorucci.
8
Supriya Lele
British-Indian designer Supriya Lele made her debut at London Fashion Week in 2017 with her namesake label. Her sheer, colorful body-conscious twisted pieces are fresh and modern, earning her fans everywhere—Dua Lipa posted herself wearing an orange skirt and top for her 25th birthday on Instagram. Lele was also a finalist for the 2020 LVMH Prize.
9
Peter Do
Peter Do was founded by a group of five friends in 2018, led by Vietnamese designer Peter Do. They don't follow traditional industry rules and instead do things like present when they want (usually during the men's schedule) and where they want (most recently in Paris even though they are based in New York). Do worked under Phoebe Philo at Celine, which is evident in the clean, minimal tailoring that has earned him celebrity fans like Zendaya and Solange.
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10
Ahluwalia
Indian-Nigerian designer Priya Ahluwalia launched her menswear brand in 2018. She primarily uses vintage and deadstock fabrics, offering a modern approach to traditional menswear. She was tapped to participate in GucciFest last November and last month during London Fashion Week, she was awarded the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.
Senior Fashion Editor
MaryKate Boylan is Town & Country’s Senior Fashion Editor, writing about all things fashion and jewelry.
As an enthusiast deeply entrenched in the world of fashion, with a keen eye for emerging talents and a wealth of firsthand knowledge, I'm thrilled to shed light on the designers mentioned in the article. My experience spans the intricacies of fashion, from design principles to the cultural and sustainability aspects that define the industry's current landscape.
1. Maisie Wilen: Maisie Schloss, a Parsons graduate, made her mark by launching her eponymous brand in June 2019. Having previously worked as a womenswear designer for Kanye West's Yeezy, she brings a unique perspective to her fun and comfortable party looks. Schloss's adaptation of her designs for everyday wear showcases a dynamic approach to fashion.
2. Kenneth Ize: Vienna-born designer Kenneth Ize, based in Nigeria, has been at the forefront of preserving Nigerian craft. Founding his collection in 2013, Ize emphasizes the use of locally produced fabrics, particularly the vibrant Aso Oke cloth. His recognition as a finalist for the LVMH prize in 2019, coupled with Naomi Campbell walking for his fall 2020 collection, attests to his global impact.
3. Chopova Lowena: The London-based duo Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena, graduates of Central Saint Martins, have carved a niche with their sustainably focused brand. Using vintage fabrics sourced in Bulgaria and producing their clothes in both Bulgaria and England, Chopova Lowena's pleated patchwork skirts have gained a cult following, embodying a blend of sustainability and style.
4. Del Core: Daniel Del Core, known for dressing celebrities during his tenure at Gucci, made a splash at Milan Fashion Week 2021 with his new womenswear collection, Del Core. His background in the VIP department of Gucci hints at the potential for his eccentric and colorful evening wear to grace red carpets soon.
5. Charles de Vilmorin: At just twenty-four, Charles de Vilmorin's meteoric rise in the fashion industry is noteworthy. From launching his namesake collection in April 2020 to being chosen by Alessandro Michele for GucciFest and subsequently taking the helm at Rochas, de Vilmorin's career trajectory is impressive, reflecting his talent and vision.
6. Thebe Magugu: Hailing from South Africa, Thebe Magugu holds the distinction of being the first African designer to win the LVMH Prize. His celebration of South Africa's cultural heritage is evident in his work, produced in Johannesburg, along with his commitment to showcasing ideas and people from the region through an annual zine.
7. Daniel W. Fletcher: After gaining experience at prestigious fashion houses like Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Victoria Beckham, and Lanvin, Daniel W. Fletcher is making waves with his own brand. His success on Netflix's "Next in Fashion" and his role as the artistic director at Fiorucci underscore his creative prowess in menswear.
8. Supriya Lele: British-Indian designer Supriya Lele debuted her namesake label at London Fashion Week in 2017. Renowned for her sheer, colorful, body-conscious twisted pieces, Lele has garnered a following, including celebrities like Dua Lipa. Her modern and fresh approach earned her a spot as a finalist for the 2020 LVMH Prize.
9. Peter Do: Founded by Vietnamese designer Peter Do in 2018, the brand Peter Do challenges traditional industry norms. With a minimalist and clean aesthetic influenced by Do's time under Phoebe Philo at Celine, the brand has attracted celebrity fans like Zendaya and Solange, showcasing a departure from convention in presentation and location.
10. Ahluwalia: Priya Ahluwalia, an Indian-Nigerian designer, launched her menswear brand in 2018. Noteworthy for her use of vintage and deadstock fabrics, she received recognition at GucciFest and was honored with the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design during London Fashion Week, solidifying her as a rising star in contemporary menswear.
