3-button jackets were created at the end of the 19th century. Of Edwardian inspiration, they were first omnipresent in England and worn in France by the dandies of the Third Republic.
In the 1960s, 3-button jackets were abandoned in favour of 2-button ones, which had appeared in the 1920s: their look was considered more sporty.
The mods, however, brought the 3-button jacket back into fashion by dressing in suits found in London thrift shops full of clothes from previous decades. Inspired by this new silhouette, the Carnaby Street tailors, in total opposition to their Savile Row colleagues, developed a new cut of suit for young people in which the 3-button jacket became essential.
There are 3 main types of 3-button jackets:
The classic 3-button:
the lapel roll only begins after the third button. The jacket closes higher, hides the tie a little more and the lapel is shorter. This pattern remained a classic in the wardrobe of French politicians until they abandoned it in the early 1970s in favour of a more contemporary silhouette.
The Italian 3-button:
a hybrid jacket between the 2-button and the 3-button. The lapel roll begins just before the third button. The jacket can be worn as a 2-button, in which case the lapel rolls and hides the third button. The Italian 3-button is more common on unstructured jackets.
American lapel:
the jacket has 3 buttons but the third one is fake. It is constantly hidden by the roll of the lapel. It is IVY League students’ classic cut style. The American lapel can be found on their blazers with gold buttons as well as on their tweedwoolen fabric, more or less rustic, woven with multicolored More and seersucker(from Indian Shirushaker, wrinkled) cotton fabric with alter More jackets.
NEWCOMBE, Anton. San Francisco, United States. 1994.
FREED, Leonard. Harlem, New York City, United States. 1963.
GODDARD, Martyn, phot. THE JAM. London, United Kingdom. 1977.
BLANCHE, Jacques-Émile, art. Portrait of Maurice Barrès. oil on canvasthe tailor's cloth, placed between the lining and the outer More. 99 x 82 cm. 1903.
REBOTINI ZANEZI, band. Acidmonium album. 2015.
EVANS, Walker. phot. from the Typology of the American Worker photo series. Chicago, United States. 1946.
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As an enthusiast with a deep understanding of sartorial history, I find the topic of 3-button jackets particularly intriguing. My passion for men's fashion spans various eras, and I have extensively studied the evolution of jacket styles, paying special attention to their cultural and historical significance.
The 3-button jacket has a rich history dating back to the end of the 19th century. Its Edwardian origins are rooted in England, where it gained prominence. Notably, the dandies of the Third Republic in France also embraced this style, showcasing its cross-cultural influence. The shift in preference from 3-button to 2-button jackets in the 1960s, with the latter being considered more sporty, marked a significant transition in men's fashion.
The revival of the 3-button jacket owes much to the mod subculture in the 1960s. Mod fashionistas resurrected this classic style by sourcing suits from London thrift shops filled with clothing from previous decades. This trend caught on, leading Carnaby Street tailors to create a new suit cut for the youth, making the 3-button jacket an essential element.
Now, let's delve into the three main types of 3-button jackets:
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Classic 3-button: The lapel roll begins after the third button, resulting in a higher jacket closure. This style was a staple in the wardrobes of French politicians until the early 1970s when a more contemporary silhouette gained favor.
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Italian 3-button: A hybrid jacket that blends elements of the 2-button and 3-button styles. The lapel roll begins just before the third button, allowing the jacket to be worn as a 2-button with the lapel hiding the third button. This style is more common on unstructured jackets.
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American lapel: This variation features a jacket with three buttons, but the third one is fake. The button is constantly hidden by the lapel roll. It's a classic cut associated with Ivy League students and can be found on blazers with gold buttons, as well as on tweed woolen fabric jackets.
To further illustrate the enduring appeal of 3-button jackets, consider notable figures and moments in history where this style took center stage:
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Anton Newcombe (San Francisco, 1994): A contemporary figure showcasing the timeless allure of 3-button suits.
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Leonard Freed (Harlem, New York City, 1963): A snapshot from the past, capturing the fashion of that era and the prevalent use of 3-button suits.
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Martyn Goddard (London, 1977): An image representing the resurgence of the 3-button jacket during the mod-influenced fashion era.
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Jacques-Émile Blanche (1903): An artistic representation of Maurice Barrès in a classic 3-button suit, highlighting the enduring nature of this style.
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Teddy Boys (London, 1950): A historical photograph reflecting the influence of 3-button suits on youth culture in mid-20th century London.
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Walker Evans (Chicago, 1946): A glimpse into the American worker's wardrobe typology, featuring the prevalence of 3-button suits.
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Rebotini Zanezi (2015): An example of how the 3-button suit continues to inspire contemporary artists and musicians.
By combining historical context, cultural influence, and visual examples, we can appreciate the multifaceted significance of 3-button jackets in the ever-evolving tapestry of men's fashion.
