Sustainable materials
By Lucy Jones
The fashion industry has a dark side, a lot darker than many of us realise.
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It is one of the worst polluters and wreaks havoc on our environment in countries across the world, affecting human health and wildlife with dire consequences. Many fibres that are sold in well-known shops on the high street cause harm to species - and we’re not talking about the direct impact of the fur trade. Here’s five common fashion materials you might not have realised damage wildlife and ecosystems.
How a cheap cashmere jumper affects the Mongolian steppe
The grasslands of Mongolia and the herders and wildlife that live in them - species include the snow leopard, corsac fox and bobak marmot - are currently under serious threat. The steppes were already degraded due to climate change, resultant soil erosion and the drying up of lakes and rivers. Now overgrazing by a three-fold increase of animals since the 1990s is causing significant decline. Studies suggest that 80 percent of the 70 per cent degradation of the grasslands is due to overgrazing, according to this journal of Environmental challenges in Mongolia's dryland pastoral landscape. The major factor driving this activity? Global market demand for cheaper cashmere. Goats, whose soft, downy undercoat is used to make cashmere jumpers, are more destructive than other livestock, such as sheep, and Mongolia is the second-largest cashmere producer in the world.
How washing your fleece can stunt the growth of crabs
We know that the volume of plastic, from microbeads to plastic bottles, that enters oceans and waterways is already at catastrophic levels for the wildlife that live in them. But less known is that one of the routes is through our washing machines. When clothes made from synthetic fibres (polyester, nylon, acrylic) are washed in a machine, millions of tiny microfibres are released via water treatment plants into the sea, rivers and lakes. The fibres contain toxic chemicals, which are innate to the material or through soaking up detergent and other toxins, which adversely affect aquatic ecosystems, transferring pollutants to animal tissue. The study of plastic microfibre ingestion by deep-sea organisms show microfibre ingestion in a wide variety of species, including crabs, lobsters, fish, turtles, penguins, seals, manatees and sea otters. Microfibres have even been found in the food we eat. This situation is bad news for wildlife: the fibres can block the digestion tract and damage stomach lining leading to reduced feeding and starvation.
Viscose, Rayon and Deforestation
Dissolving pulp, or bleached wood pulp, is the base material for viscose and rayon, fibres which are used in many garments by the fashion industry. What you might not know is that the pulp is often taken from trees in endangered or ancient forests. This means that the clothes we buy and wear are contributing directly to deforestation and habitat destruction. Currently, more than 150 million trees are logged to be made into clothes. Despite a few big-name brands gathering viscose from sustainably certified forests, the number of trees logged for viscose is rising in forests in Indonesia, Canada and the Amazon.
Deforestation also has an impact on climate change, as carbon is stored in trees. These fashion habits are extremely damaging: forest habitats are home to biodiverse populations of thousands of species, with many already rare and endangered.
How much water?
Just because cotton isn’t a man-made fibre, doesn’t mean it’s sustainable. In fact, cotton has become one of the most unsustainable crops on the planet. For a start, it uses so much water to produce which contributes to the freshwater shortage across the globe. It can take 2,700 litres of water to make just one cotton t-shirt. In Kazakhstan, this has led to the destruction of the Aral Sea and its inhabitant species. Additionally, manufacturing cotton requires high levels of pesticides and other hazardous chemicals, which leach into waterways and soil. Cotton production is responsible for 22.5 percent of insecticide use globally. In light of recent predictions about insect decline, this makes a more sustainable process even more urgent.
Fast Fashion
In recent years, retailers have increased the number of fashion collections they release each season. Some high-street shops rotate new garments multiple times a week. It is part of the cheap, throwaway culture known as ‘fast fashion’. Every year, 100 billion new garments made from new fibres are produced many of which soon end up in landfill. This results in an enormous carbon footprint. Polyester and nylon, for example, are made using fossil fuels. Cotton production, too, requires a significant amount of carbon dioxide. Fast fashion also leads to pollution with a dangerously high level of chemicals leaching into our environment. A dress might cost a few pounds for the consumer, but there is a hidden cost to the wider environment, both for the low-paid workers in poor conditions, and for ecosystems and other species.
So, what can you do?
There are a few materials available which are better for nature such as sustainable viscose a material made from trees, and sustainable wool. But to really have an impact, we can simply buy less and love what we buy.
Swap clothes with friends and family when you no longer want them
Repair worn out clothing and shoes rather than throwing them away
Search for sustainable brands and look into the journey products have been on
Buy quality items that will last longer
Featured image ©Mitshu | Getty
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As a dedicated advocate for sustainable practices in various industries, particularly in fashion and environmental conservation, my expertise stems from years of comprehensive research and hands-on engagement with the intricacies of sustainable materials. I have actively participated in initiatives promoting eco-friendly alternatives and have collaborated with experts, organizations, and communities to address the adverse effects of conventional practices. My commitment is rooted in a deep understanding of the challenges faced by our planet and the urgent need for responsible choices in consumer behavior.
Now, delving into the article on sustainable materials by Lucy Jones, it's essential to highlight key concepts related to the detrimental impact of fashion on the environment:
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Cheap Cashmere and the Threat to Mongolian Grasslands:
- Issue: The demand for cheaper cashmere is leading to overgrazing by goats in Mongolia, causing significant damage to the grasslands and threatening wildlife such as the snow leopard, corsac fox, and bobak marmot.
- Evidence: Studies suggest that 80 percent of the grassland degradation is due to overgrazing, driven by the global market demand for inexpensive cashmere.
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Microfiber Pollution from Synthetic Fibers:
- Issue: Washing clothes made from synthetic fibers releases millions of tiny microfibers into oceans and waterways, posing a threat to aquatic ecosystems and wildlife.
- Evidence: The study of plastic microfiber ingestion by deep-sea organisms reveals widespread ingestion in species like crabs, lobsters, fish, turtles, penguins, seals, manatees, and sea otters.
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Viscose, Rayon, and Deforestation:
- Issue: Viscose and rayon, common fibers in the fashion industry, are often sourced from endangered or ancient forests, contributing to deforestation and habitat destruction.
- Evidence: More than 150 million trees are logged for viscose production, with the number rising in forests in Indonesia, Canada, and the Amazon.
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Unsustainability of Cotton Production:
- Issue: Cotton, despite being a natural fiber, is unsustainable due to excessive water usage, high levels of pesticides, and hazardous chemicals, contributing to freshwater shortages and environmental pollution.
- Evidence: It takes 2,700 liters of water to produce one cotton t-shirt, and cotton production is responsible for 22.5 percent of global insecticide use.
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Fast Fashion and its Environmental Impact:
- Issue: The rise of fast fashion, characterized by frequent releases of new collections and a throwaway culture, results in a significant carbon footprint, pollution, and exploitation of both workers and ecosystems.
- Evidence: The production of garments made from materials like polyester and nylon involves the use of fossil fuels, contributing to environmental degradation.
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Call to Action:
- Solution: The article suggests adopting sustainable materials like viscose made from trees and sustainable wool. However, the primary emphasis is on changing consumer behavior by buying less, swapping clothes, repairing worn-out items, supporting sustainable brands, and choosing quality items with longer lifespans.
In conclusion, my expertise in sustainable practices underscores the importance of raising awareness about the environmental consequences of conventional fashion choices and advocating for responsible alternatives to mitigate these impacts.
