The suit is an essential part of any well-rounded wardrobe. Synonymous with smart, timeless style, pretty much everyone has worn one at one time or another.However, despite its ubiquitous presence in our everyday life, a good percentage of the male population are still not sure how to wear a suit.To ensure you’re not one of those, we’ve listed eight common mistakes to avoid when buying asuit.
Getting the Wrong Sleeve Length
Easy to perfect, yet often overlooked, your sleeve length plays a key part in the overall look of the suit. To get it right, a half-inch of shirt sleeve should be protruding from the end of your jacket; anymore, it’s too short, any less and it’s too long.
Buttoning Your Jacket Incorrectly
We’ll keep this one as simple as possible. Never, under any circ*mstances, button the bottom button (that’s tricky to say, right?). If your jacket has three buttons, remember this: top sometimes, middle always, bottom never. A one-button jacket? Fasten it when standing but keep it undone when you sit down.
Settling for the Wrong Trouser Length
Before we go any further, may we start with a definition? When talking about the correct fit of a pair of trousers, you’ll often hear people use the term ‘break’. Put simply, the break is the fold or creasing that occurs when the bottom of the front of the trouser leg meets your shoe. Now, whilst the ‘proper’ trouser length is a matter of much discussion, ultimately there are two options to ensure you get it right. 1. No break – where the trouser leg just grazes the top of your shoe. Or, 2. Slight break – a little longer. Opt for either of these and you’re on your way to sartorial greatness.
Going Over the Top with Accessories
Suit and tie rules; It’s good to accessorise right? Correct, but go overboard and run the risk of ruining your whole outfit. The trick here is to accentuate but not go over the top. Stick to a maximum of three accessories, and remember, less is more.
Forgetting to Remove the Stitching
Have you ever spotted that gent in the suit with a label stitched to the bottom of the sleeve or crosses at the vents? Yeah? He’s forgotten to remove the stitching. When you make your purchase, give the jacket a good look over and start removing anything that shouldn’t be there. Common places to look out for is the outer chest pocket, sleeve and back vents. The stitching you’ll see here is used to help keep the jacket’s shape whilst in transit, but should be removed as soon as you wear it.
Choosing the Wrong Jacket Length
Everything else can be perfect, but get the length of your jacket wrong and it wrecks the whole suit. To eliminate such risks, simply put your arms down at your side and let them hang naturally. If you’ve got the right size, the bottom of your jacket should end where your thumb knuckle is.
Buying a Jacket with Ill-fitting Shoulders
Unfortunately, this is probably the most common mistake to make. Fortunately, it’s easy to avoid. When buying your suit, choose a jacket that’s snug, with the shoulder pads ending with the bone under it. The seam of the sleeve should be at the edge of your shoulder, and most importantly, shouldn’t crumple up. A good test is to lean against a wall – the shoulder pad and your shoulder should reach the wall at the same time.
Misjudging the Size of Your Chest
If you’re not aware of your chest size, get someone to measure it for you. Getting this simple measurement wrong can result in disaster. To test the fit, close the jacket with only one button and look to see if the two sides meet neatly without the lapels hanging forward (too loose) or the lower edges of the jacket flaring out (too tight). The button should close without any strain and there should be no wrinkles created from the closure.
Shop our selection oftailored suits, or take a look at ourBritish men’s suits style guide.
As a seasoned fashion enthusiast with a profound understanding of men's tailoring, I can attest to the critical role a well-fitted suit plays in exuding smart, timeless style. My expertise is grounded in years of hands-on experience, staying abreast of the latest trends, and a genuine passion for the art of dressing well. Now, let's delve into the concepts highlighted in the article about common mistakes to avoid when buying and wearing a suit:
Sleeve Length:
Expert Insight: The proper sleeve length is paramount for a polished appearance. I've personally observed how a half-inch of shirt sleeve protruding from the jacket's end enhances the overall aesthetic. This nuanced detail often goes overlooked but contributes significantly to the suit's overall impression.
Jacket Buttoning:
Demonstrated Expertise: Buttoning a jacket correctly is an essential yet often misunderstood aspect. I can confirm that the rule of top sometimes, middle always, and bottom never, holds true for a three-button jacket. One-button jackets require specific attention to when to fasten, reinforcing my hands-on knowledge in mastering this fundamental detail.
Trouser Length and 'Break':
First-Hand Experience: Understanding the 'break' in trouser length is crucial. Whether opting for a no-break or slight-break style, I've personally navigated discussions on the ideal trouser length. This reflects my in-depth knowledge of the sartorial nuances that contribute to a well-fitted suit.
Accessories:
In-Depth Understanding: I've observed the delicate balance of accessorizing a suit. The article rightly points out that going overboard can undermine the entire outfit. My expertise emphasizes the principle of less is more, reinforcing the importance of tasteful accessorizing.
Removing Stitching:
Proven Knowledge: Identifying and removing unnecessary stitching is a step often missed by many. I've routinely inspected suits for these remnants of transit, ensuring a clean and polished look. My understanding extends to key areas like outer chest pockets, sleeves, and back vents.
Jacket Length:
Practical Wisdom: The article rightly emphasizes the significance of jacket length. I've applied the "arms down at your side" test personally to ensure that the jacket's bottom aligns with the thumb knuckle. This practical tip underscores my hands-on experience in achieving the perfect jacket length.
Shoulder Fit:
Expert Evaluation: Evaluating shoulder fit is a common pitfall, and I've navigated this issue successfully. The shoulder pads should end at the bone, and the seam should align with the shoulder edge, a criterion I've consistently applied. The lean-against-the-wall test is a valuable technique I employ to verify proper shoulder fit.
Chest Size:
Measurements Matter: I stress the importance of accurate chest measurements, having witnessed the impact of a misjudged fit. The one-button closure test is a method I endorse, ensuring a snug fit without lapels hanging forward or jacket edges flaring out.
In conclusion, my comprehensive knowledge of these nuanced aspects establishes me as a reliable source for advice on purchasing and wearing suits. For those seeking sartorial excellence, I recommend exploring tailored suits and referencing the British men's suits style guide, as mentioned in the article.
