Unless you’re in the field of horology or have years of experience as a collector, buying a vintage watch can be a daunting process.
Much like their construction, the market of vintage watches is incredibly complex and nuanced — perhaps even more so. Instead of simply mechanical wheels and drives and springs to deal with, you have an infinite amount of styles, models, new terminology, specifications, and historical references to wrap your head around.
This makes it difficult for the casual buyer to dip into the market and come out with a successful purchase. Particularly as online auctions and internet sites make it easy to acquire a little knowledge and pick up a so called ‘classic’ or ‘vintage’ timepiece.
So what should you do? How do you know which are the revered watch manufacturers, or which time periods hold particular significance? How do you find out what models are rare and what you should pay for them? Well, as many experts and collectors will say, with time and experience. But the good news is, you don’t need expert knowledge and a trained eye to get started.
Below is our brief guide for buyers new to the world of vintage watches. It consists of four stages or areas: 1) Understanding what classes as vintage, 2) Getting to know makes and models, 3) Provenance, and 4) Assessing condition.
What exactly is vintage?
The definition of what makes a watch vintage can vary widely, but it’s generally said to be anything 25-30 years old, or older. But age isn’t enough alone to qualify something as vintage.
To distinguish vintage from other styles like retro, antique, or just plain old, a watch should embody characteristics such as being timeless, classic, functional, and most importantly, of high-quality workmanship and build.
The importance of brand and model
Manufacturer and brand say a lot about a watch, and when the timepiece is vintage, it says even more.
It may be that the company is steeped in history or has now ceased operations. Or that a particular model is rare due to being a limited edition, one of only a few made, or the first to introduce a particular specification, style, complication, or calibre. Most often it’s a combination of both.
Provenance and ownership
The provenance of a watch (its history and origin) can play a huge part in the significance and price of a vintage watch.
For instance, a never-worn watch with a single owner will fetch a lot more than a heavily worn watch that has been through the hands of countless people. What’s more, the story of the owner themselves, as is often the case with estate watches, can greatly influence a watch’s value.
Such timepieces with a rich and regal history are most often reserved for private and estate sales, top auction houses, and established retailers. While watches with a more diverse and ordinary background are usually those found at flea markets, car boot sales, antique shops, and sites like eBay.
Assessing the condition
Assessing the state of a watch is an art that can take years to master. But it’s easy to grasp the basics and spot an obvious dud from a hidden gem.
The first thing to consider is what you can see. Is there any damage to the surface and outer casing i.e. scratches, dents, chips, or even engravings? How clear is the dial and crystal? Next, look a little closer at the back and movement. Is there any damage from rust or oxidisation?
You’ll also want to check if the watch matches the period the seller claims it does, and if the watch has been serviced and had any original parts replaced.
Parkers is a century-and-a-half old watch retailer built on loyalty, reliability, and value for money. Browse our catalogue to see our latest stock of pre-owned and vintage watches.
FAQs
Start with a classic piece from the 50s or 60s.
The huge majority of watches from this era will hold their value and are a low-risk investment. It's a great place to start and is the mainstay of our business at Vintage Gold Watches. You can read here why we love the era so much, and why you as a collector will too.
Is it worth investing in vintage watches? ›
Many vintage timepieces have increased significantly in value over the years, making them an excellent long-term investment. Additionally, they are often less volatile than traditional investments like stocks and bonds, which can be beneficial if you're looking for a more conservative approach to investing.
Is a 20 year old Rolex considered vintage? ›
Yes, a 20-year-old Rolex would be considered vintage by most people. Generally, timepieces that are at least 20 years old are thought of as vintage.
What is the best watch brand to buy vintage? ›
Vintage or expensive Rolex watches, such as the Submariner, Daytona, Oyster Perpetual and Datejust, are particularly prized among collectors. That's not to say we should rule out other vintage brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and holy trinity member Vacheron Constantin.
Are old watches worth any money? ›
Many vintage watches are worth more than their original selling price because of their rarity. Manufacturers often produce limited quantities of certain models. Over the years, fewer of these models survive, making those that do rarer and, therefore, more valuable.
How old is considered vintage watch? ›
The definition of what makes a watch vintage can vary widely, but it's generally said to be anything 25-30 years old, or older.
Can vintage watches be worn daily? ›
So if you plan on showering or swimming with your watch, a vintage one may not be the best choice. For general daily use, though, a good vintage watch can be perfectly dependable. Your watchmaker can check for water resistance too, soothing that worry about an unexpected rain shower.
What is the difference between vintage and antique watches? ›
The difference between antique and vintage watches
As with most areas of collectables, an antique item is considered to be at least 100 years old, while vintage items are considered to be anything from 20/25 years – 99 years old.
What watches hold resale value? ›
The craftsmanship, scarcity, and brand reputation significantly influence the desirability and worth of a timepiece. Luxury watch brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have established themselves as the epitome of value retention, thanks to their exceptional quality and timeless designs.
Why are vintage Rolexes cheaper? ›
Generally speaking, the most affordable vintage Rolex watches for sale are those that are plentiful, either because they remained in production for a very long time or because they were the models that everyone wanted, leading to vast quantities being produced.
Many of the Rolex models from the 1990s hold their value incredibly well simply because they boast the 5-point coronet on their dial. Additionally, just like all Rolex watches, if properly maintained, they can outlive their owners and become cherished heirlooms for further generations to enjoy.
Should I buy a 10 year old Rolex? ›
Although a pre-owned watch may lose some value, the depreciation would be significantly slow. Depending on the model and its demand, you may even find that the price exceeds what you initially paid for the Rolex. Some vintage Rolex models, for instance, have soared in value in recent years.
What is the most sought after vintage watch? ›
The Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona is an iconic and highly sought-after vintage watch, renowned for its association with the legendary actor and racer, Paul Newman. Introduced in 1963, it gained fame when Paul Newman was spotted wearing one during his racing career.
What is the most collectable watch? ›
The most obvious examples include Rolex Oyster and Oyster Perpetual watches, which have remained in continuous production for almost 100 years. This makes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual the most collectable and collected watch.
How do I start my own watch collection? ›
How to Start Watch Collecting: A Guide for Beginners
- Define Your Style and Purpose. ...
- Set a Budget. ...
- Learn the Basics of Watch Movements. ...
- Research Iconic Brands and Models. ...
- Start with Versatile Pieces. ...
- Rotate Watches: Furthering Your Watch Collection. ...
- Connect with the Watch Community. ...
- Embrace the Journey.
Online organisations like Recycling for Good Causes accept jewellery and watches via the post, regardless of condition, for re-sale and recycling to raise funds for national charities and local groups such as Scouts and Brownies.
Why do people collect vintage watches? ›
Historical Significance: Vintage watches often have historical significance or a unique place in horological history. They may have been associated with important events or famous personalities, making them highly sought after by collectors interested in owning a piece of history.
Is collecting watches a good investment? ›
Many investors make good profits from buying watches and reselling them years or decades later. Considering a watch as an investment is a smart financial strategy. To ensure profitability, it is crucial to assess factors such as condition, rarity, brand, and market demand.
