Often the runways are filled with creations that originate not inthe renowned glamourous design studios of Paris, Milan and New Yorkbut can be traced back further, to humbler studios and one-roomworkshops. This work, namely prints, textiles or embroideries, oftenends up featured in the glossy pages of magazines, on billboards andin store windows, but the textile craftsperson’s name is missing fromthe final garment. That’s because these creatives sell their ideas toestablished brands. Chris Judge is one such individual who describeshis company as “a multi-media textile/swatch and inspirationenterprise.”
Here he describes his business and what a typical day looks likefor him...
My success was part luck, part Paris
I started the company 20 years ago. I had trained in knitwear andworked both freelance and in the knitwear industry for several yearsbefore deciding to strike out on my own and establish my business.Initially I drew on my knitwear background by producing knittedswatches and inspirational pieces. My first collection was very small(but I like to think well-formed) and I took a chance by visitingParis having made only a few appointments to meet with designers. Myfirst clients were Paris couture companies and were a mixture ofcontacts I had made and recommendations between design houses that I’dvisited with my collection. I think my success was part luck andpartly due to the fact the designers liked what they saw and weretherefore prepared to recommend me to others in what could bedescribed as a very exclusive niche of the design market.
At that time, my collection was predominantly womenswear, but italso included some menswear. Clients across Europe now include Rykiel,Givenchy, Vuitton, Ungaro, Fendi, MaxMara, Missoni.
On to New York
After Paris I ventured further afield and made appointments in NewYork. I didn’t have much money, so slept on my friend’s floor duringthe visit. It was tough getting appointments, but, once again, I wasrecommended by design friends and other professionals I had met onappointments.
After New York I registered for a major trade shows including PittiFilati (Florence), and, later, Premier Vision (Paris), Directions (NewYork) and Como Crea (Italy). As a result, my business has grown, ashas my client contact list.Now my clients range from upper-end fashion houses ( e.g. Marc Jacobs,Donna Karen Collection, Philip Lim, DVF, Haute Hippie) through tomid-market and high street brands (e.g. Banana Republic, UrbanOutfitters, Anthropology, Free People, Gap, Club Monaco, Top Shop andAmerican Eagle).
Over time my collection has morphed from pure knitwear to includere-styled (woven) vintage pieces and embellishments. More recently ithas incorporated new technologies such as laser cut fabrics. Today mycollection is eclectic in that it reflects the market and cuts acrossknitted and woven fabrics, print design, vintage prints,embellishments, embroidery, hand painted prints, and laser cuts.
London expansion
When I started my company I was based in London and set up in aroom in my house. Later, as business expanded, I leased a designstudio and contracted with several freelance designers who wouldeither work from home or visit me in-house for briefings re trends andthe market. Today, my company is based in Brighton on the south coast,50 miles from London.
Daily routine
My daily routine varies depending on the time of year/season.Activities will include: sourcing vintage textile pieces from antiquefairs and markets across Europe; designing and making swatches andinspirational pieces (this will include re-styling vintage pieces andalso creating new samples and swatches); making appointments (if atrade show is imminent); chasing invoices and payments; booking hotelsand flights; briefing freelance designers; reviewing and editing mycollection. If I’m exhibiting at a trade fair my day will involve:pre-show exclusive appointments and sales; meeting clients; advisingon trends and directions; showing my work; making sales; ensuring mycollection reflects current and future trends in relation to theclient and the market. Trade fairs last two to three days and alsooffer an opportunity to get inspired and source new inspirationalpieces for the next collection.When it comes to clients and sales, I would say I’m fortunate in thatI’m successful equally across the US and Europe, including London.
Biggest achievement
To date, my biggest business achievement has been growing andsustaining my company and brand in what is a highly competitiveenvironment. Over the years I have witnessed the demise of severalcompanies that were established around the same time as mine. Anotherachievement, in business terms, is keeping contact with all my clients– very important for me if I am to continue to grow and succeed. On apersonal level, my best achievement has been working in a field that Ilove and thoroughly enjoy. I never tire of sourcing ideas and creatingnew products or pieces and I am lucky that my work-life blendsseamlessly into my home life.
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All imagery courtesy of Chris Judge.
