The ribs, or wales, are what gives corduroy it’s distinct quality and the number of wales lets you know what kind of cord you’re dealing with.
When you see a wale number given when you’re looking at cord fabric it’s telling you there are that many ribs per inch. The higher the wale number the finer the wales will be. Classic corduroy material typically has 14 wales per inch.
Needlecord has finer ribs and is typically 14 to 18 cords per inch which gives a lighter weight fabric and a shorter pile than regular corduroy. We have a super stock of needlecord and have lots of coloured & patterned corduroy to choose from. Needlecord is brilliant for clothing and makes fantastic shirts, dresses, bags and children’s clothes.
Then there’s pincord or babycord which has a finer wale again, typically 18 to 22 cords per inch and has similar uses to needlecord and at the other end of the scale there’s constitutional cord which is also known as jumbo or elephant cord which is much thicker and heavier and typically has just 3 to 10 cords per inch.
Cord is a lovely fabric to sew. It’s stable & doesn’t really require much special handling so it’s a great fabric for beginners. The only thing to think about is those parallel lines….
Make sure your cutting is accurate. This will help you when you sew your item together – you don’t want the wales on a slant! Also consider the direction that the nap is going and use the “With Nap” cutting layout if you are dressmaking.
Use a 80/12 needle and a stitch length of 2.5mm. You may wish to loosen your top tension or use a walking for if you find the fabric is travelling a little – the nap might cause this to happen.
The most popular interfacings to use for corduroy fabrics are sew-in or fusible
It’s advisable not to press the right side of the fabric, you can end up with unsightly lines from your seams. Use a pressing cloth like a lightweight calico is recommended
A wale is a column of loops running lengthwise, corresponding to the warp of woven fabric. The lower the number, the thicker the wales' width (e.g., 4-wale is much thicker than 11-wale). Wale count per inch can vary from 1.5 to 21, although the traditional standard is usually between 10 and 12.
It's usually made of 100% cotton or a mix of cotton and synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon. Wale count, thickness, and color fastness influence corduroy's texture, appearance, and longevity.
The type of corduroy is based on the number of ridges per inch, so a jumbo cord has less ridges per inch, the finest corduroy is Pin or Needle cord which has over 16 Wales per inch and is the finest corduroy out there. But a standard corduroy has around 11 Wales per inch.
The width of the wales defines the texture of the Corduroy. This is measured by the number of wales per square inch, e.g. 14-Wale. Corduroy with wider wales, such as 1.5, is often used on upholstery or hard wearing trousers, while a wale measurement of 14 will make for a finer garment.
The ridges of piled yarn on corduroy fabric are known as wales, and these wales vary significantly in width. A piece of corduroy fabric's “wale number” is determined by the number of wales contained in a single inch of fabric, and standard corduroy fabric has around 11-12 wales.
'Corde du Roi' – Cord of the King was the origin of the name. The width of the 'Cords'in the weave are measured in 'wales'. The lower the number the thicker the 'wale'. It comes in varying widths, from needle cord upwards.
corduroy, strong durable fabric with a rounded cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cut pile yarn. The back of the goods has a plain or a twill weave. Corduroy is made from any of the major textile fibres and with one warp and two fillings.
Apart from its rugged and textured appeal, Corduroy is also appreciated for its durability, making it an excellent choice for various types of clothing. From casual jackets and pants to skirts, Corduroy adds a touch of timeless charm to everyday outfits.
Corduroy is a type of twill weave fabric that's characterised by its thick vertical ribs, or "wales" the number of wales per inch (wpi) indicates the thickness of the corduroy fabric; the higher the wpi, the finer the corduroy. Jumbo cord is the largest type of corduroy, with ridges that are 3-10 wales per inch.
The 8 wale refers to the number of cords or raised rows of velvet per inch, making this a heavy weight corduroy fabric. As such, it's perfect for garments that need a little extra structure and hold.
The lower the wale number, the thicker the corduroy wales. Below is a rough guide to buying different wales; 6 - Jumbo Wale - ultra wide wale, often used for mens trousers or bottom weights and interiors. 8 - Elephant Wale - wide wale, often used for mens and womens trousers, jackets or bottom weights.
Similar to corduroy or velvet (which are also two-sided pile material), Fleece fabric is a two-sided pile material, which means that both the front and back surface of the fabric sprouts a layer of cut fibers.
Crafted entirely from cotton, the needlecord fabric is both incredibly soft and remarkably resilient. Distinguished by its understated, slightly raised stripes, this 21 wale corduroy offers a refined take on traditional pile textures.
If you are using a 100% Cotton Corduroy, be sure to use a Cotton thread. For other fibre combinations, especially those with Polyester or a stretch fibre, use a Polyester thread, as this type is a little stronger and less prone to snapping, perfect for stretch fabrics.
Good corduroy is 100% cotton. Adding in a stretch fibre, such as elastane, seems like a good idea but it means you're always fighting with the material - it allows you to stretch the material, but it also means it's constantly pulling you back. The cord also doesn't drape or otherwise behave as well.
Introduction: My name is Dr. Pierre Goyette, I am a enchanting, powerful, jolly, rich, graceful, colorful, zany person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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