The beauty of denim, especially raw selvedge denim, is the process of breaking it in. A good jean will stretch and mold to fit your body, and the dye will gradually rub-off according to how you move in them. After a few months of solid wear you’ll be left with a go-to jean that fits like a second skin and is uniquely your own. But washing them improperly can ruin all of this.
Washing jeans, ornotwashing jeans, has become an artform for many denim enthusiasts. I’ve heard all kinds of crazy strategies to avoid shrinkage and achieve the perfect amount of distressing; from wearing them in salt water and drying them with sand, to storing them in the freezer to kill bacteria. Both of which seem a little extreme.
To get to the bottom of this issue once and for all, we spoke with a handful of denim experts to find a consensus on how to properly care for denim. Here’s the basics.
The key to buying a well-fitting jean is allowing room for them to stretch. If they fit “perfectly” in the fitting room, after a week they will be too loose. When you try them on at the store they should bevery tightin the waist, seat, and thighs. I’m talking almost-too-tight-to-walk tight. You have to trust thatthey will stretchsignificantlyas you wear them, especiallyin areas of consistentpressure.
BREAK-IN BEFORE TAILORING
If you plan on having your jeans hemmed or altered, make sure you’ve fully broken them in first. In some cases they will get slightly longer as they stretch and get looser, but they could also start to shorten due to the “crinkling” effect behind at the knee and at the hips. Every pair of jeans will break-in differently depending on the rigidness of the denim, so make sure they are done changing before altering them for good.
The longer you wait to wash them the more the dye will rub-off naturally, which is the secret to getting that awesome one-of-a-kind whiskering effect. Many denim brands say to wait at least six months, some even a year. The key is holding out. If they start to get a little funky you cansteamthem, hit them with someFebreeze, and hang them outside to air-out.
When you’re ready to wash your jeans for the first time, don’t use the washing machine or the dryer! The washing machine will scrub out too much of the dye, and the dryer will shrink them and completely ruin their fit. Simply fill your sink or bathtub with lukewarm water, add in a small amount ofWoolite Black, and soak for one hour. You can turn your jeans inside out if you really want to preserve the dark indigo color in the cotton. After an hour, roll them in a towel to drain excess water, then hang them to dry.
There will be little shrinkage due to the wetting and drying process, but this should be minimal. The fit you’ve been working on should come back after walking around in your clean jeans for an hour or so. Since the denim has never been rinsed, the first wash is the most important as it sets the creases and fading marks into the jeans. You’ll still get signs of wear afterward, but they won’t be as dramatic.
Did I miss anything? Feel free to add comments below.
Thanks, as always, for reading.
Yours in style,
Dan Trepanier
NEED HELP WITH YOUR WARDROBE?
MORE FROM ARTICLES OF STYLE
As an avid denim enthusiast and someone deeply immersed in the world of raw selvedge denim, I can confidently say that the beauty of this fabric lies in its unique ability to evolve and adapt with the wearer over time. The process of breaking in raw selvedge denim is indeed a transformative journey that results in a pair of jeans that not only fits like a second skin but also carries a distinct and personal history.
Now, let's delve into the concepts and insights presented in the article:
-
Breaking In Denim:
- The article emphasizes the importance of the breaking-in process, highlighting that a good pair of raw selvedge denim jeans will stretch and mold to fit the body over time.
- The dye on the denim gradually rubs off based on the wearer's movements, creating a unique and personalized distressing effect.
-
Care for Denim:
- Proper care is crucial to maintaining the integrity of raw selvedge denim. Incorrect washing techniques can ruin the personalized fit and distressing achieved through the breaking-in process.
- Various unconventional strategies to avoid shrinkage and achieve distressing are mentioned, such as wearing jeans in salt water, drying them with sand, and even storing them in the freezer to kill bacteria.
-
Buying Well-Fitting Jeans:
- The key to purchasing well-fitting jeans is allowing room for them to stretch. Jeans that feel "perfect" in the fitting room may become too loose after a week of wear.
- The recommendation is to buy jeans that are very tight in the waist, seat, and thighs initially, trusting that they will stretch significantly with wear, especially in areas of consistent pressure.
-
Break-In Before Tailoring:
- If planning to have jeans hemmed or altered, it's advised to fully break them in first. The breaking-in process may cause slight changes in length due to stretching or the "crinkling" effect at the knee and hips.
- Each pair of jeans breaks in differently based on the denim's rigidness, so alterations should be done after the jeans have settled into their final shape.
-
Delaying the First Wash:
- The longer you wait to wash raw selvedge denim, the more the dye will naturally rub off, contributing to a unique whiskering effect.
- Recommendations from denim brands suggest waiting at least six months, and in some cases, up to a year, before the first wash.
-
Proper Washing Technique:
- When washing raw selvedge denim for the first time, avoid using a washing machine or dryer, as these can scrub out too much dye and shrink the jeans.
- Instead, fill a sink or bathtub with lukewarm water, add a small amount of Woolite Black, and soak the jeans for one hour. Afterward, roll them in a towel to drain excess water and hang them to dry.
-
Importance of the First Wash:
- The first wash is crucial as it sets the creases and fading marks into the jeans. Since the denim has never been rinsed, this initial wash plays a significant role in defining the final appearance of the jeans.
In conclusion, the article provides a comprehensive guide on the art of breaking in and caring for raw selvedge denim, offering valuable insights from denim experts to ensure that enthusiasts can enjoy a pair of jeans that not only fits perfectly but also tells a unique story through its wear and fading patterns.
