Opera pumps (or court shoes) are the plainest formalwear shoes for men. Their archetype dates back to at least the 1730s when the European noble and gentlemen wore delicate, low, often silken, and laceless footwear in court and society gatherings. A particular vogue were leather soles or heels dyed red. As contemporary pumps have changed little from their forefathers, they are men’s oldest classic shoe type still in use. In the England of Regency days, gentlemen wore graceful, tasseled Hessian riding boots in daylight, and patent leather pumps with knee-breeches during evening occasions and opera performances.
Before Beau Brummell’s time, the pumps had decorative and expensive silver buckles that were replaced with silky bows due to his influence at the beginning of the 1800s. The change was seen more fitting for the times, likely due to the violent rumpus in France just a decade before. True to its name, the pump has no laces. It is constructed with soles as thin as possible to make the foot look smaller and formal. The sole unit is usually glued on and made from leather so that dancing is easier with a well-gliding material, and feet will not sweat as much. The shoe rarely has a welt.
The upper leather in opera pumps is lasted with the wholecut method so it only has one seam behind the heel, and this seamlessness makes the shoe type seem ever daintier and cleaner. The fit cannot be adjusted with laces so the shape of the last is key for keeping the shoe on, and avoiding heel slip. The natural colour for pumps has been black, but coloured velvet models have been made for house slippers or rare Casual Black Tie affairs. The only decoration for pumps is the pre-tied bow on the instep, usually made from grosgrain, silk, or velvet. The topline may also have piping made from these materials. The traditional toe shape is round.
Pumps are usually made very low and open, in keeping with the historical shape, to better display the foot and the gleaming silken formal socks usually worn with black or white tie. Some pairs also have a decorative quilted lining, while most are leather-lined. The heel is usually lower than the average 3 cm height of benchmade pairs. Patent leather, or very well-polished calfskin, opera pumps remained the formalwear shoe of choice for gentlemen into the 1930s, when laced models began their world conquest. Later on, the pump has diminished, albeit with some exceptions. The style icon Frank Sinatra, for one, was a friend of the pump and gently dubbed his pair Mary Jane.
Opera pump shunning is likely due to its feminine look and the overall decrease of formal events. These pumps are only seen on the feet of the braver dressers in black or white tie occasions. Whatever the reader’s view on the style, pumps are the most laborious form in occasional dressing because they are not made by too many factories, the fit must be exact, and the shoe cannot be appropriated to everyday wear. The opera pump is simply too formal for this.
If one does find a good pair, this partywear can only be worn with a dinner jacket or white tie and tails. A smoking jacket set is debatable. An added nuisance is patent leather as it forms deep, permanent creases quickly, and makes the shoes look crinkly. This problem can be easily avoided by finding a calfskin pair, and managing to shine a parade look on them. In addition, the pump is so light and open that it will make a poor walking shoe or protection for the feet. In celebrations, though, it will outshine all others because a finer shoe has not been invented yet.
Translated from my new book, Klassikko: Jokaisen miehen tyylikirja (The Classic: Each Man’s Style Book).
Photo: Edward Green
FAQs
Opera pumps (or court shoes) are the plainest formalwear shoes for men. Their archetype dates back to at least the 1730s when the European noble and gentlemen wore delicate, low, often silken, and laceless footwear in court and society gatherings. A particular vogue were leather soles or heels dyed red.
What is the history of pump shoes? ›
The origins of pumps can be traced back to the 17th century, where they were initially designed for men. The term "pump" is believed to have originated from the sound the wearer's foot made when walking in the shoe.
Why is a woman's shoe called a pump? ›
The term "pump" originated in the 1500s and referred to a type of shoe without laces or buckles that was slipped onto the foot. The word "pump" comes from the sound the shoe makes when the wearer walks, as the heel hits the ground and air is forced out of the shoe.
What is the origin of the court shoe? ›
A court shoe (British English) or pump (American English) is a shoe with a low-cut front, or vamp, with either a shoe buckle or a black bow as ostensible fastening. Deriving from the 17th- and 18th-century dress shoes with shoe buckles, the vamped pump shape emerged in the late 18th century.
When to wear opera pumps? ›
Opera Pumps Defined
Pumps are one of the three commonly accepted shoes to be worn for black- or white-tie occasions, the other two being a black patent Venetian loafer and black oxford shoes in either patent or calfskin.
Who made the original pump shoes? ›
The Reebok Pump is a line of athletic shoes that was first released on November 24, 1989, by Reebok. It was the first shoe to have an internal inflation mechanism that regulated a unique fitting cushion in the lower and upper tongue to provide locking around the ankle.
What is the meaning of pump shoes? ›
High-heeled shoes, also known as high heels or pumps, are a type of shoe with an upward-angled sole. The heel in such shoes is raised above the ball of the foot. High heels cause the legs to appear longer, make the wearer appear taller, and accentuate the calf muscle.
What is the difference between court shoes and pumps? ›
Shoes with long, thin heel usually of 1inch to 10 inches are known as stilettos. These shoes are known as court shoes in British English and Pumps in American English. Stilettos of 5cms and shorter are known as kitten heels. Pumps can be worn as casuals as well as formal shoes by both men and women.
What makes a shoe a court shoe? ›
Court shoes are designed specifically for tennis and the shifting, side-to-side motions that come with the game. On the contrary, regular sneakers reach lower on the ankle bone, giving less stability and more room for injury.
What shoes do Americans call pumps? ›
Pumps. The pump category includes a wide variety of shoe styles, but the term typically refers to a low-cut, slip-on heel.
Furthermore, the sole of a shoe needs to have enough rigidity to handle the quick start and stop movements around the court. Many shoes will use a rigid plastic insert called a shank toward the middle of a shoe's sole to help increase stability and prevent the shoe from twisting.
What are court shoes called? ›
countable noun. Court shoes are the same as pumps. [British] © mingman, Shutterstock.
Are court shoes the same as running shoes? ›
Running shoes are designed to provide support for the activity of running continuously forward, with extra heel and midsole cushioning. Tennis shoes, on the other hand, are designed for quick movements and turning on the courts. They provide vital lateral support.
Do you have to wear socks with pumps? ›
So, yes, wearing socks and heels together is okay and even encouraged. When figuring out how to wear socks with heels properly, there are a few guidelines you should follow: Choose Thinner Socks – Socks made of thinner, more breathable materials like mesh, nylon, or cotton are the best socks to wear with heels.
Why is it called patent leather? ›
The name "patent leather" originated from the fact that a patent was granted for the process of creating the shiny finish. This process involved coating the leather with a clear varnish, which created a hard and glossy surface.
Can you wear pumps casually? ›
The most casual heels are block heels, classic pumps and wedges. They offer more support and stability, so they're easier the walk in without feeling awkward or looked at. But you can definitely get away with a stiletto or a peep toe as well if you know how to dress them down!
Where did pumps originate? ›
200 BC. The Greek inventor and mathematician Ctesibius invents the water organ, an air pump with valves on the bottom, a tank of water in between them and a row of pipes on top. This is the principal design that is now known as the reciprocating pump. Archimedean screw pump (Auger) is designed by Archimedes.
Did Nike ever make pump shoes? ›
Nike wasn't the first company to unleash a pump-controlled basketball sneaker. They also didn't hold onto the technology much longer than just a few years. But in 1989, the Air Pressure came equipped with perhaps one of the most overdone gimmicks of its time.
When was the pump invented? ›
The first real pump in known history was invented by the Ancient Greeks around 200 BC. The famous mathematician Archimedes came up with a device that changed the world as we know it now: the screw pump.
What happened to pump up shoes? ›
And yet, by about 1994, the novelty wore off. People eventually were just content to tie their sneakers. DJ Senator, a Pump collector with 500 pairs, told ESPN for a story last year that Reebok oversaturated the market. “It just got flooded and then once they're sitting, nobody wants them,” he said.
