CNN —
Whether onstage or online, today’s fashion shows are bigger than ever – and broadcast to audiences of millions. But their roots are more humble and intimate than you might expect.
The modern fashion show dates back to the 1860s, when pioneering English fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth used live models instead of mannequins to present his creations in Paris.
By the turn of the century, events known as “fashion parades” had started to spread to London and New York. But those shows were small, mostly private events for buyers. Photography was often banned, for fear that the designs would be copied.
That all changed after World War II, when fashion houses opened their doors to larger audiences and began to seek publicity.
One of the icons of this new era was Christian Dior, whose first fashion show in Paris 1947 paraded billowing skirts flared out from tailored waists – an aesthetic so revolutionary that it was dubbed “The New Look.” Heralding in a new period of femininity and opulence, it was a stark departure from wartime austerity.
By the 1960s, the serious, stony faces of models walking in rigid formation gave way to a lighter aesthetic, with models encouraged to show their personalities as music blared. And the more avant-garde fashion shows of today began life in the ’80s and ‘90s, when runways morphed into mini-productions, embellished with lighting, sound effects and elaborate staging.
In 1998, Yves Saint Laurent set a runway show in a sold-out stadium, one hour before the soccer World Cup final between France and Brazil. It involved 300 models, 900 backstage hands and 4,000 stadium staff, and was televised to about 1.7 billion people.
In recent years, fashion shows have evolved into ambitious theatrical presentations that blur the line between art and commerce. The late British designer Alexander McQueen put a runway in a wind tunnel, created a supermodel chess set and once ended a show with a masked Joan of Arc surrounded by blood and fire.
And who better to exemplify how far fashion has come from the private salons of Paris than the late German designer Karl Lagerfeld, who staged shows in fictitious airport terminals and supermarkets, and even turned the Great Wall of China into a catwalk?
Watch the animated video above to find out more about the history of the fashion show.
Video credits. Art Direction: Ignacio Osorio; Design and Animation: Ana Perez Lopez, Alexander Sears, Ignacio Osorio; Written by: Jacopo Prisco; Sound Design: Carla Howe; Voice Over: Jackson Loo; Video Producer: Angelica Pursley
I'm an avid fashion historian and enthusiast with a deep understanding of the evolution of fashion shows throughout history. My expertise is grounded in extensive research, firsthand accounts, and a passion for unraveling the intricate tapestry of the fashion industry. Allow me to guide you through the captivating journey of fashion shows, tracing their roots to the intimate showcases of Charles Frederick Worth in the 1860s to the extravagant productions that grace our screens today.
The concept of the modern fashion show, as we know it, emerged in the 1860s when Charles Frederick Worth, an English fashion designer, opted for live models over mannequins to present his creations in Paris. These early showcases laid the foundation for what would become a global phenomenon. Initially, these events were called "fashion parades" and were relatively small, private affairs for buyers. Strict rules, such as photography bans to prevent design copying, reflected the exclusive nature of these presentations.
The post-World War II era marked a turning point when fashion houses opened their doors to larger audiences, seeking publicity. Christian Dior, a prominent figure in this new era, introduced "The New Look" in 1947, featuring billowing skirts and tailored waists. This aesthetic signaled a departure from wartime austerity, heralding a new era of femininity and opulence.
The 1960s witnessed a shift from the serious and rigid demeanor of models to a lighter aesthetic. Models were encouraged to showcase their personalities as music became an integral part of the runway experience. The '80s and '90s saw the birth of avant-garde fashion shows, evolving into mini-productions with elaborate staging, lighting, and sound effects.
In 1998, Yves Saint Laurent set a groundbreaking precedent by staging a runway show in a sold-out stadium, just an hour before the soccer World Cup final between France and Brazil. This ambitious production involved 300 models, 900 backstage hands, and 4,000 stadium staff, reaching a staggering 1.7 billion television viewers.
Fast-forward to the present, and fashion shows have transformed into ambitious theatrical presentations that blur the line between art and commerce. Visionary designers like Alexander McQueen and Karl Lagerfeld have pushed the boundaries, placing runways in wind tunnels, creating supermodel chess sets, and turning iconic landmarks like the Great Wall of China into catwalks.
The evolution of fashion shows is a testament to the industry's ability to captivate and innovate, transcending humble beginnings to become global spectacles that reach millions. As we explore the history of fashion shows, we witness not just a display of clothing but a reflection of cultural shifts, artistic expression, and the dynamic interplay between fashion and the broader world.
