AMERICAN DESIGNERS MADE NAMES FOR THEMSELVES IN THE ’40S (2024)

American designers in the 1940s such as Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Brigance and Rudi Gernreich were a pervasive force in fashion history, liberating American fashion from the thralldom of Paris.

According to a spokesperson for the Metropolitan Museum of Art, it was fashion visionary Dorothy Shaver of Lord & Taylor who campaigned for recognition of American designers.

She launched a series of in-store presentations that recognized clothes by the name of the designer instead of the manufacturer, demonstrating Shaver’s belief that American designers were fully equal to their established European counterparts.

Shaver’s campaign continued not only through Lord & Taylor, but also in collaboration with Eleanor Lambert, noted publicist in fashion, interiors and the arts, in establishing the Coty American Fashion Critics Awards. The first ceremony took place Jan. 22, 1943, at the Metropolitan Museum, honoring Norman Norell, and bestowing special awards on Lily Dache and John Fredericks, noted hat designers.

Among the outstanding fashion creators of the 1940s, both American and European, according to the second edition of “Fairchild’s Dictionary of Fashion”:

* Gilbert Adrian, an American who designed for Metropolitan-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios stars such as Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, Norma Shearer, Katharine Hepburn, Rosalind Russell. Noted for exaggerated wide shoulders on tailored suits, dolman sleeves, tapered waist, pinstripes or set-in patches of color, dramatic animal prints on sinuous black crepe evening gowns, asymmetrical lines, diagonal closings and huge ruffle-topped sleeves.

* Cristobal Balenciaga, Spanish-French couturier. Designed elegant clothes for cream of international society, royalty and film stars. Only couturier who could design, cut, sew and fit a whole garment; revered as the “master” by his staff and peers. Among his disciples were Givenchy, Courreges and Ungaro. Among his innovations were middy dress that evolved into a chemise, cocoon coat, balloon skirt, bathrobe-wrap coat and pillbox hat.

* Tom Brigance, American designer. Designer for Lord & Taylor who pioneered in use of oversized and mixed patterns, geometrics and florals.

* Christian Dior, French designer. Launched the revolutionary New Look, an ultra-feminine silhouette, yards of material in almost ankle-length skirt with tiny waist, snug bodice, rounded sloping shoulders and padded hips.

* Rudi Gernreich, Austrian who moved to California. He specialized in dramatic sport clothes in striking color combinations and cut; bathing suits, underwear and hosiery — usually coordinated for total look. Remembered for maillot swimsuits with no bra and bare suits with deeply cut-out sides and see-through blouses.

* James Charles, London and Paris. Rated by his peers “A genius … daring innovator in the shape of clothes.” Remembered for new techniques for dress patterns, new dress forms, elaborate bouffant ball gown in odd mixtures of colors and fabrics; batwing oval cape-coat, intricately cut dolman wraps and asymmetric shapes. Now in the costume collections of many museums including the Brooklyn Museum and the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.

* Mainbocher, American couturier. Noted for duch*ess of Windsor’s wedding dress in 1936; WAVES (Women in the Navy) uniform in 1942 and Girl Scout uniform in 1948. Ideas widely copied: his print-bordered and lined sweaters to match dresses, beaded evening sweaters, fur-lined coats, rain suits, tweed dinner suit with delicate blouses and embroidered apron evening dresses.

* Claire McCardell, American designer. Considered top all-American designer of 1940s and 1950s, specializing in practical clothes for average working girl. Credited with originating the “American Look” — the separates concept inspired by travel needs, using sturdy cotton denims, ticking, gingham and wool jersey. She gathered ideas from basic work clothes of farmers, railroad workers, soldiers and sportsmen such as hook-and-eye fasteners. Some firsts: — a surplice-wrapped housedress, bareback summer dresses, long cotton Empire dress, tiny puffed sleeves, diaper-wrap one-piece swimsuit, balloon bloomer playsuit and ballet slipper for street.

* Norman Norell, American designer. Rated as top American designer on Seventh Avenue –“Dean of the fashion industry,” “The American Balenciaga.” Known for precision tailoring, dateless purity of line. Remembered for double-breasted coats over puss*-cat bow blouses and straight skirts, slinky sequinned dresses, at home “smoking” robes, straight wool jersey chemises, trouser suits for town and travel, sweater tops with luxurious skirts, the sailor look. First designer elected to Hall of Fame by Coty Awards judges in 1958. Founder and first president of Council of Fashion Designers of America.

* Clare Potter, American designer. One of the first group of all-American designers honored by Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor in late 1930s. Formed own business on Seventh Avenue under name Clarepotter during 1940s and 1950s making classic sportswear, at-home and dinner clothes. Noted for unusual color combinations, refinement of cut and no extraneous trimmings.

AMERICAN DESIGNERS MADE NAMES FOR THEMSELVES IN THE ’40S (2024)

FAQs

Who were the American designers in the 40s? ›

American designers in the 1940s such as Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Brigance and Rudi Gernreich were a pervasive force in fashion history, liberating American fashion from the thralldom of Paris.

Who was the most famous fashion designer in the 1940s? ›

Christian Dior - 1940's

The following year, Dior revolutionized the entire fashion industry with his first official collection. His lavish ultra-feminine creations featured tight bodices and long full skirts that many times required up to 25 yards of fabric.

Who was the designer that started at 40? ›

In July 1975, Giorgio Armani S.P.A was founded. The company's first collection—a men's clothing line—debuted when Armani was 42 years old. Today, Armani's brand can be found in major department stores around the world along with 500 exclusive retail stores.

Who were the five major French and American designers from the 1940s to the 1970s? ›

On a late November night during 1973, five American fashion designers—Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows—gathered at the Palace of Versailles to show against the five French designers considered the best in the world: Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel ...

Who influenced 1940s fashion? ›

Early '40s style

In the early part of the decade, new styles were being developed by American designers like Adrian, Claire McCardell, and Pauline Trigère. Many designers of this time preferred a lighter and less structured aesthetic than what was the norm in French fashion.

Which designer was called the mother of American fashion in the 1940s? ›

Known as the mother of contemporary American style, designer Anne Klein reinvented the sportswear popularized by designers like Claire McCardell and Clare Potter in the 1930s and 1940s and brought it into the ranks of high fashion.

Who were the female icons of the 40s? ›

1940s fashion icons

We're talking of course of the likes of Ava Gardner, Bette Davis, Rita Haywarth, Grace Kelly, Ingrid Bergman, Katharine Hepburn and Doris Day.

What fashion designer was born in 1946? ›

Gianni Versace, (born December 2, 1946, Reggio Calabria, Italy—died July 15, 1997, Miami Beach, Florida, U.S.), Italian fashion designer known for his daring fashions and glamorous lifestyle.

Which men's fashion style became very popular in the 1940s? ›

Striped casual shirts were popular in the '40s. Apart from the formal dress shirts, casual shirts really became big in the 1940s, there were many types, different patterns, and colors, but the “camp” style collar is definitely something we owe to the 1940s.

Which designer pioneered the new look in 1947? ›

DIOR, 52, CREATOR OF 'NEWLOOK,' DIES; Designer Won Fame in 1947 for Style Innovation Christian Dior Is Dead at 52; Designer Created 'New Look' 'Tyrant of Hemlines' 'Luxury Must Be Defended'

Who were the first designers? ›

Charles Frederick Worth is believed to be the first fashion designer of the world, from 1826 to 1895. Charles, who was earlier a draper, set up a fashion house in Paris. It was he who started the tradition of fashion houses and telling his customers what kind of clothing would suit them.

Who was the first female designer? ›

The earliest fashion designs were knock-offs from styles worn by courtiers and royalty. In the late 1700s, Marie-Jeanne Rose Bertin, couturière to one of the most controversial Queens of France, Marie Antoinette, is regarded as one among the foremost female designers whose creations influenced Parisian styles.

Who was the number 1 most important fashion designer in the 1920s? ›

1)Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel

Coco Chanel was and still remains one of the biggest names in the fashion and beauty industry. Coco soon became a famed fashion designer as she revolutionised the way women wore clothes, paving a new way for the fashion brand, she, being a fashion icon herself.

Who was the most famous fashion designer in the 1930s? ›

Two of the most prominent and influential fashion designers of the 1930s were Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet.

Who was the first fashion designer in America? ›

Credited as being America's first internationally renowned designer, Halston (1932–90) defined American women's fashion of the 1970s and brought American fashion global attention.

What was popular in the 40s? ›

Comedies, gangster movies, and musicals helped people forget their troubles. In the early 1940s, some of the great dramas of American film reached theaters. Radio was also wildly popular, offering many kinds of programs, from sermons to soap operas.

What was the 1940s era called? ›

This decade, commonly called "the war years," is synonymous with World War II.

What was 1940s style make up? ›

The overall 1940s makeup look was reasonably natural, topped off with a splash of red lipstick glamour. Foundation was natural or leaned towards a gentle sun-kissed tone, with a very subtle, natural rosy glow to cheeks. Shaped eyebrows were of medium thickness, brushed and gently coloured in.

Who was the first black American designer? ›

Ann Lowe is widely regarded as the first well-known Black American fashion designer. Lowe was born in rural Alabama in 1898. The granddaughter of slaves learned to sew and make clothes from her mother and grandmother.

Which designer was known as the king of fashion in America? ›

The "King of Fashion" in America in the 1910s, Poiret is most famous for his designs influenced by orientalism, Neoclassicism, and Surrealism: the kimono, the Turkish trouser, the slit skirt, and the famous lampshade dress.

How did girls dress in the 40s? ›

In a nutshell, women's 1940s fashion was about creating an hourglass silhouette with masculine details: padded shoulders, nipped-in high waist tops, and A-line skirts that came down to the knee. This was the everyday shape for clothing, from suits to dresses. Even pants had a similar high waisted, wide leg shape.

Who was the strong woman of the 1940s? ›

Rosie the Riveter is the icon of World War II women – strong but feminine.

Who was the hottest woman of the 1940s? ›

Hedy Lamarr, the star MGM called “the most beautiful woman in the world”, had two of the worst-kept secrets in Hollywood.

Who was the biggest artist of the 40s? ›

Best Selling Records of Decade 1940s
RankArtistLabel
1The Mills BrothersDecca 18318
2Glenn Miller and His OrchestraBluebird 11230
3Bing CrosbyDecca 18429
4Harry James and His Orchestra (Vocal Helen Forrest)Columbia 36668
36 more rows

What American designer was born in 1939? ›

Ralph Lauren, original name Ralph Rueben Lifsh*tz, (born October 14, 1939, New York, New York, U.S.), American fashion designer who, by developing his brand around the image of an elite American lifestyle, built one of the world's most successful fashion empires.

Which designer was known for defining women's fashion in the 50s? ›

French designer, Christian Dior, defined the silhouette of the 1950s with his notable “New Look” which featured his iconic hourglass suit with voluminous skirts with heavy pleating, nipped waists, padded hips and soft shoulders. He designed with a philosophy to live by extravagance and beauty.

Who was the most iconic fashion designer of the 1960s? ›

Inventive, opinionated and commercially minded, Mary Quant (1930 – 2023) was the most iconic fashion designer of the 1960s. A design and retail pioneer, she popularised super-high hemlines and other irreverent looks that were critical to the development of the 'Swinging Sixties' scene.

What pants did men wear in the 40s? ›

Whether it was for work, or to go to church or other social events, high-waisted pants and double-breasted jackets were a staple. 40s mens fashion brought about a slight revival of Zoot too, with pleated baggy trousers and hats with wide brims.

What were popular fashion Colours in the 1940s? ›

Yellow, red, and blue tones were incredibly popular. So too were soft greens like mint and aqua. Not unlike today, women tended to wear lighter, softer colors during summer months. Pastels were always appropriate for bright spring and summer days.

How much did a suit cost in 1940? ›

At the average price for a suit at the time, about $50, revenue would have been $1.25 billion. And that's in 1940s money. Accounting for inflation, the market would have been $12.5 billion.

Who was the first designer brand? ›

French fashion house Hermes is the oldest luxury brand in the world still in operation today. It was founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermes. The designer originally produced saddles and other riding gear. The first unofficial Hermes bag designed in addition to riding equipment was designed to carry saddles.

Who was the famous designer in 1950? ›

Top 5 Fashion Designers of 1950's Women's Fashion

Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain, Jaques Fath, and of course Coco Chanel.

Who was the first modern designer? ›

Walter Gropius and Le Corbusier were the pioneers of the movement, with the latter having a profound impact on the design of many public housing schemes in Britain. In Britain, the term Modern Movement has been used to describe the rigorous modernist designs of the 1930s to the early 1960s.

Who are the fathers of design? ›

Raymond Loewy: The Father of Industrial Design - Designorate.

Who is father of fashion? ›

Charles Frederick Worth

Who was the most famous designer? ›

1. Coco Chanel. Born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, “Coco” was an exquisite French fashion designer and founder of the well-known CHANEL brand. Her modernist thinking, practical design, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her an important and influential figure in 20th-century fashion.

Who was the first woman male model? ›

The world's first female male model, former Olympic swimmer Casey Legler, describes her body and work in the fashion industry.

Who is the first youngest fashion designer? ›

Kheris Rogers just became the youngest designer to debut a fashion line.

Who is the greatest woman in fashion design? ›

Coco Chanel

Considered by many to have been the greatest fashion force who ever lived, she created a fashion spirit, as well as a look. Aside from influencing most of the best young designers of her time in Europe and the U.S., she has had a lingering impact on fashion today.

Who is the greatest fashion designer of all time? ›

1. Coco Chanel. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, later known as “Coco” to the world, is perhaps the most iconic and influential fashion designer of all time.

What did flappers wear? ›

A typical flapper chose dresses that were of a straight style, sleeveless, and often low-cut as well as short—about knee-length, which was rather scandalous at the time. She wore stockings, often rolled to below the knee; had a bobbed, or chin-length, hairstyle; and used cosmetics on her face in a bold manner.

Who started the first fashion trend? ›

It is believed that fashion design began in the 19th century by a man named Charles Frederick Worth. Worth was the first person to have his own label sewn into the garments of clothing that were created by him.

Who were the top designers in the 1940s? ›

American designers in the 1940s such as Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Brigance and Rudi Gernreich were a pervasive force in fashion history, liberating American fashion from the thralldom of Paris.

Who was the most influential evening wear designer during the 1930s? ›

Elizabeth Hawes evening dress

During the 1930s, mitering became a popular design motif. One of its early pioneers was American dressmaker Elizabeth Hawes.

What was the first clothing brand? ›

Brooks Brothers is an American clothing retailer founded in 1818, the oldest apparel brand in continuous operation in the United States. Originally a family business, Brooks Brothers produces clothing for men, women and children, as well as home furnishings.

Who is the oldest fashion designer alive? ›

Apfel celebrated her 100th birthday on August 29, 2021.

Who was the first fashion designer to come up with their signature scent? ›

Although some designers began to dabble in scent production in the early 1900s, French couturier Paul Poiret, one of Chanel's greatest and nastiest rivals, is generally credited with being the first to introduce a signature fragrance in 1911.

What was the first fashion brand to have a logo on their clothes? ›

Since they were expensive, there was a risk that other designers or fashion houses would start creating fakes or similar designs and sell them under Vuitton's name. In order to avoid this, George Vuitton trademarked the symbol and set one of the first examples of branding in fashion.

Who was one of the popular designers of the 1930s? ›

Two of the most prominent and influential fashion designers of the 1930s were Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet.

Who were the American designers in the Battle of Versailles? ›

The main “amusem*nt” of the evening was a display of fashion by five French couturiers (Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Emanuel Ungaro), and their invited guests, the five American designers Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, and Anne Klein ...

Who were among the major designers active in the 1950s? ›

1950s fashion overview

The end of the war also saw the return of couture fashion designers like Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel, and Hubert de Givenchy who had a major impact in the style of the decade.

Who were designers in the 1950? ›

Influential Designers In The 50s And 60s
  • André Courrèges was a very well known French designer born in 1923. ...
  • Hubert Givenchy was a French designer born in 1927. ...
  • Yves Saint Laurent was a French designer born in 1936. ...
  • Emilio Pucci was an Italian designer born in Naples in 1914.
May 26, 2020

Who is the most iconic designer? ›

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, later known as “Coco” to the world, is perhaps the most iconic and influential fashion designer of all time. She learned to sew as a teenager in an orphanage, and her vision of simple and functional, yet classically stylish, women's clothing has made the Chanel brand coveted the world over.

Who was the first major designer? ›

Charles Frederick Worth is believed to be the first fashion designer of the world, from 1826 to 1895. Charles, who was earlier a draper, set up a fashion house in Paris. It was he who started the tradition of fashion houses and telling his customers what kind of clothing would suit them.

Who were the American designers during ww2? ›

Two designers emerged on the American scene developing simple, casual styles that proved trendy and popular: Norman Norell and Claire McCardell. Norell's high-quality designs filled the void created by the absence of designs coming out of occupied Paris.

Who were fashion designers during World War 1? ›

Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel, Burberry, Worth and Jeanne Paquin were some of the famous fashion designers during World War 1.

Who designed the Palace of Versailles? ›

Which designer pioneered the New Look in 1947? ›

DIOR, 52, CREATOR OF 'NEWLOOK,' DIES; Designer Won Fame in 1947 for Style Innovation Christian Dior Is Dead at 52; Designer Created 'New Look' 'Tyrant of Hemlines' 'Luxury Must Be Defended'

Who was the biggest fashion designer in the 50s? ›

Coco Chanel – One of the all-time best-known names in women's fashion, this French designer first made her mark after WWI, freeing women from the corset look and replacing it with a casual chic.

Who were designers in the 1960? ›

Spanning the shift from 'Mod' style through Space Age to hippy chic, this eye-popping collection features the work of many of the decade's most iconic designers – including Mary Quant, Barbara Hulanicki (Biba), Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin, André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin and Michael Fish.

Who was the fashion designer born in 1950? ›

Bruce Oldfield, OBE (born 14 July 1950) is a British fashion designer, best known for his couture occasionwear.

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