APM: Pattern making terms (2024)

Pattern making terms

1. Pattern: patterns are two dimensional templates or guides for cutting fabric to stitch a garment. Patterns are made by professional pattern makers on a pattern paper. (figure 1)
2. Pattern drafting: It is a system of pattern making which depends on measurements taken from a form or model to create basic, foundation or design patterns. For e.g. draft of basic pattern set.
3. Flat Pattern Making: Flat pattern making is a method of pattern making on the flat. A basic pattern previously made to fit the dummy or individual figure, and is used as a basic for making other patterns.

It is a system of pattern making which depends on previously developed basic pattern. In flat pattern making manipulations are done by using slash and pivotal method to create new designs.

4. Basic pattern set: This is a five-piece pattern set. These five pieces are; front and back bodices, a full sleeve and front and back skirt. The dimensions of basic pattern are specific to a form or figure. It is developed without any design features. For making flat patterns of different designs, basic pattern is always traced and then further modifications by slash and spread techniques are done. The traced copy of basic pattern is referred to as working pattern. (figure 1)




5. Block or foundation pattern: The function of a block or foundation pattern is to provide a simple outline of bodice, skirt or sleeve, from which every kind of style pattern can be developed. Block patterns also serves as a map or chart for recording useful information regarding the shape, proportions and even posture of a figure, average or individual.
6. Working pattern: This is any pattern used as a base for creating new designs by manipulations, usually by slashing and pivoting. Working patterns consist basic back and front bodice, skirt and sleeve, and other foundation patterns derived from them. The patternmaker should choose the pattern that closely relates to a specific design without having to develop a complete new pattern. This saves time, as part of the design detail has already been worked out. These working patterns should remain seamless unless the patternmaker is experienced, as seamless patterns are easier to manipulate and develop.
7. First pattern: this is the original pattern developed for each design. Pattern is made by marking paper with required fitting and adjustments. First pattern is developed only half unless the design is asymmetrical.
8. Production Pattern: This is the pattern set that is finalized according to the final requirements of and garment. It is corrected, perfected and modified pattern. It contains every pattern piece to complete the garment. The production pattern is used by pattern grader for grading sizes of the pattern and for making the marker maker for layout.
9. Marker making: it is also called layout or lay. it is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces on the fabric. Markers are made to fit the cuttable width of the fabric so that maximum utilization of the fabric can be done. It is done according to the specific design or style, fabric and distribution of sizes. This process of arrangement requires large amount of time, skill and concentration. Marker making can be done manually or by computers.
10. Computerized marker making: it is fast and less tedious process of making marker with great efficiency and accuracy. It has more options of arrangements and leads to best material utilization. Many automatic marker-maker software are available in the market. (figure 2)




11. Marker maker: The layout marking of production pattern is done by marker maker to minimize the wastage of fabric. It is done on marking paper and the maker is either pencil marked, photo marked or marked on a computer system.
12. Pattern grain line: The pattern grain line is drawn on each part or each piece of a pattern from one end to another end. The grain line of a pattern indicates how the pattern should align or place with the length wise grain of the fabric. The grain line of the pattern will always be placed on the fabric so that it is parallel to selvedge of fabric. Grain line may drawn anywhere in the pattern but it follows the above rule. (figure 3)




13. Grain line Arrows: Grain line of a pattern has small arrows on its either or both ends. (figure 3)

• Arrows placed at both ends of a grain line shows that the top of the pattern may be placed in either direction along the length wise grain of the fabric. (Fabric without nap, uniform pattern etc.)
• An arrow placed at the one side of pattern grain line, either top or bottom, indicate that the pattern must be placed in one direction only depending on direction of arrow.(e.g. for napped fabric, one directional pattern etc.)