Introduction:
Fashiondraping is the oldest method used since the 18th century. Currently,it is considered to be an important part in fashion designing. Fashion Drapingis the process of positioning and pinning fabric on a standard size dress formto develop the structure of a garment design. Many types and sizes of dressforms for women, men and children are made to fulfill the requirement.
Adress can be draped using a design sketch as a basis, or a fashion designer canplay with the way fabric falls to create new designs at the start of the dressdesign process. After draping, the toile fabric is removed from the dress formwhich was used to create the sewing draped pattern for making fashionable dressto suit an individual. In U.S.A. designers use very light weight fabrics, whichis called as 'toile', and U.K. designers call it as 'muslin' cloth.
Thetechniques for draping fabric require the knowledge of the fabric'scharacteristics. Designers/drapers must have the knowledge to distinguish amongdifferent fabrics which will enable them to select the most appropriate fabricfor flow and line of each design. Designers must devote time to collectswatches while shopping and catalogue them by width content. In this way apersonal reference library can also be created and developed.
Fabricsused for draping:
Fabricsand clothes must relate to our lifestyles and our active lifestyles are made ofmany different fabrics such as stretchy knitted fabrics, chiffon, georgette,organza, sheer cottons, voile, and light weight silk fabrics are most suitablefor fashion draping purpose. Drape ability plays an important role in makingsophisticated draped garments. Mostly, very light weight to medium weight fabricis suitable for draped garments.
Garmentsmade of woven goods are usually draped in muslin or an inexpensive fabric wherethe grain and cross grain are quite visible .The quality and hand of the muslinshould represent the texture and characteristics of the actual fabric used forthe garment design. Soft muslin will simulate the draping quality of natural orsynthetic silk, and knitted cloth.
Medium-weight muslin will simulatethe draping quality of wool and medium-weight cottons. Coarse muslin willsimulate the draping quality of heavy weight wool and cottons. Also, canvas muslinwill simulate the draping qualities of heavy weight fabrics such as denim orimitation fur.
Consider the large collection offabrics available before beginning any draping steps. The fabric selected for agarment drape greatly influences the finished look. Analyze and understand thestructure and characteristics of the fabric to create the proper ease, handfeel and balance of the garment or pattern drape. Approach each design with apositive attitude and a clear fashion sense.
Garmentsmade of knitted fabrics should be draped in less expensive knit fabric.However, the sample knit should have the same stretch value as in the fabricselected for the finished garment. The right side of the front dress form isused to drape the front basic pattern or garment. This procedure may vary,however, this is the standard rule when fitting and draping any type ofgarment. In simple words, draping technique means the way a fabric hangs in adress form as well as on the human body.
Tools&Equipment used for Draping:
Dressform with sizes like US8, US10, US12 can be chosen according to the requirement.Draped-cloth, scissors, arm hole curve, graduated-square, pins, marking-chalk,pencils, sharpeners, notches, French-curves, foot-ruler, grade-ruler, darkcolored twill tape, measuring tape, hip curve, sleeve curve are the tools required.
Drapingpattern making
Themethod of fashion draping includes stitching the garment by the use of looselyhanging material to create of flowing effect. Sometimes, basic sloper patterns(master-patterns) are also used to create draped and stylized garments. Evensleeves are constructed with the help of the sloper.
Drapedpattern making, is the link between design and production of a specified dress.Designers sketch that turns into a three-dimensional functional garment.Draping process is a way of interpreting the design regardless of the style,size and shape .The fabric is manipulated, molded, and shaped through theskillful use of the draper/designer's hand, until the design is replicated inthree-dimensional form.
Drapingdoes not rely on the aid of a pattern to create designs, although a draper maychoose to incorporate parts of an existing pattern in the preparation of themuslin to assist in the drape. It is true that those using the flat patternmaking method may incorporate some aspects of draping in creating specificdesigns. This does not minimize the value of either pattern making method, butit does enhance the pattern marker's ability to create design patternsaccurately and within time constraints. The basic sleeve is not draped,although it could be, but the results would be dubious.
Theimportant points that should be taken care of when draping the fabrics on dressforms are:
1.GSM of the Fabric (Weight)
2.The bias, selvage of the fabric
3.Pattern, texture and muslin mock-ups
4.Darts, seam location, finishing
Dressform is an excellent tool to have in a designer's studio. It is mainly used todrape the fabric to make new and innovative designed garments. It always helpin checking the proper fitting of the garment. In present day, drapingtechniques are taught in fashion design schools, academics and colleges. Thus, studentscan easily understand the art of draping and will be able to create more fashionablegarments.
Conclusion:
Inmodern days women prefer to wear draped style garments. Fashion draping ismostly used in theatrical costumes. Evening wear, stage wear, and party weargarments are made with the fashion technocrats. Draping normally requires littlebit of extra time but, with continuous practice this will become easier andmore customers can be satisfied with accurate draped dresses in less time.
References:
1.The Art of Fashion draping-ConnieAmaden -Crawford.
2.Comdex fashion design- Dr. NavneetKaur.
3.Fashion Draping- Helen JosephArmstrong
