If you're on a mission to find fitted men's shirts, you've come to the right place! We could go on about how Hugh & Crye shirts are the best, but we'd rather introduce you to the elements of better shirt fitting. That way you can decide for yourself.
Shoulders
The seam where the sleeve attaches to the body of a fitted dress shirt should hit close to the top of your shoulders. Mass brands tend to cut their shirts too large (to fit more people, of course), and so you'll often see the seam sliding down onto the arm. If the shoulder seam is riding up towards your neck, that's an indication that the shirt is too tight, and usually due to the shape of the armhole.
Collar (Neck)
Collar size is measured in inches from buttonhole to button when laid flat. The range is often between 14" and 18" (think “pencil neck" and “linebacker," respectively). You should be able to button the collar easily with room for two fingers to fit—any more and it's too loose, any less and it's too tight. Note that the collar size can be a bit smaller/larger than your true size if you rarely wear ties or button the top button of your shirts. In other words, don't sweat the collar size if you're not going to be using the top button. Here's a deeper dive into how a dress shirt collar should fit.
Chest
The best dress shirts fit comfortably around the chest, under the armpits, and across the upper back, giving you a full range of motion. A fitted shirt will feel snug, but not too tight. Your chest should "fill out" the shirt in a way where your body is discernible under the fabric. Note: If the buttons pull when you're standing still with your arms down, it's too tight.
Armhole
The armhole of a dress shirt—its shape and size—dictates how a shirt will fit in the chest, shoulder, and armpit. Most shirt brands with Small-Medium-Large sizing cut their armholes big, to fit a wide range of body types. If you're noticing fabric hanging under arm, that's not good. Your armhole should be contoured in a way that creates a tapered feel under your arm, yet leaves a full range of motion.
Body/Waist
Men's dress shirts should taper from the chest to the waist, following the contours of the body and creating a clean line (i.e., no excess fabric) between the shirt and pants when tucked in. A great fitted shirt often has two vertical back darts centered over the small of your back, which allows the shirt to taper at the waist.
Sleeves
Fitted shirts have a high armhole, allowing for a tapered sleeve that follows the shape of your arms without excess fabric. When buttoned, the cuff should fall right at the base of the thumb (there's room for some personal preference here). Just like your chest, your arms should fill out the sleeves of your shirt in a way that doesn't leave excess fabric. Excess fabric in the sleeves will often fold and billow giving an unflattering look.
Length
The shirt hem should be long enough for you to comfortably wear the shirt tucked or untucked. Two ways to look for this: First, when your shirt is untucked and buttoned, the tail should fall just past the back pockets of your pants. Note, we say "pants," and not jeans, as most guys wear their jeans a little low on the waist. The second way to know whether you have the right length is to tuck in the shirt. When tucked in, raise your arms above your head and see if the tails pop out from your pants. If so, your shirt could be a little too short.
Find Your Hugh & Crye Fit
It doesn't matter if you're short, tall, slim, or athletic - a fitted shirt is much more flattering than the alternative. Now that you have a good idea of what fitted dress shirts should look like, find your Hugh & Crye perfect fit, and experience what it feels like to wear a great fitting shirt off the rack.
I'm quite versed in the world of men's shirts and fittings. The nuances between a well-fitted shirt and one that's off-the-rack are significant, and I'll gladly dive into the elements that compose the perfect fit.
Let's start with the shoulders—a crucial aspect of a well-fitted dress shirt. The seam where the sleeve meets the body should align closely with the top of your shoulders. This ensures the shirt isn't too big or small in that area. When mass-produced shirts tend to slide off the shoulders, it's a sign they're cut for a broader audience, compromising the fit for individuals. Additionally, if the shoulder seam rides up towards your neck, it indicates a tight fit, often due to the armhole's shape.
Next, the collar or neck size, measured in inches, is pivotal. It usually ranges from 14" to 18", accommodating different neck sizes. A properly fitted collar allows for easy buttoning with room for two fingers to fit snugly. However, if you rarely wear ties or button the top button, you can afford a slightly smaller or larger collar without much hassle.
The chest area should comfortably accommodate your physique—snug but not constricting. A well-fitted shirt around the chest, under the armpits, and across the upper back enables a full range of motion without buttons pulling when standing still.
The armhole's shape and size significantly impact how the shirt fits in the chest, shoulders, and armpit regions. It should be contoured to create a tapered feel under the arm, providing mobility without excess fabric hanging.
The body or waist of a men's dress shirt should taper from the chest to the waist, eliminating excess fabric and creating a clean line when tucked in. Back darts often assist in this tailored fit, especially with shirts designed to flatter body contours.
Sleeves play a crucial role—a high armhole ensures a tapered sleeve that follows your arms' shape without excessive fabric. The cuff's placement at the base of the thumb when buttoned is ideal, without extra fabric that folds or billows, offering a refined look.
Lastly, the shirt's length matters—long enough to comfortably wear tucked or untucked. The hem should fall just past the back pockets of your pants when untucked and not pop out when tucked in, even when raising your arms.
Considering these elements, finding the right fit becomes a matter of precision, and brands like Hugh & Crye focus on catering to various body types for that perfect, off-the-rack fit.
