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The invention of quartz-based watch movements is arguably the most significant change, not only for military watches, but for the entire watch industry in the past 50 years. Because of this fundamental shift, highly reliable watches became accessible to almost everyone, regardless of geography or financial standing.
I even remember getting a digital E.T. watch in my happy meal at McDonald's when I was a kid. I'm sure they probably only cost pennies to produce in some far-off, nameless factory, but that little gadget survived many beach trips, woodland ventures, and a myriad of other kid-borne abuses. Due to its exponential reliability versus mechanical movements, it's easy to see why quartz transformed the entire narrative of what a watch was to most people. The reliability factor couldn't have been better tested than when the military and government organizations began issuing them en masse. Surviving violent shakes, shocks, extreme temperatures, high altitudes, and crushing depths has certainly earned quartz its place as the hardy movement of choice.
A-11 Watch Design
When it comes to "military-issue" watches, we can all agree the A-11 design specifications are among the most familiar. Most of us collectors have at least one example in our possession. Almost all watchmakers have put out models under these specifications, making it hard to find a standout example that makes a lasting first impression at a reasonable price.
The A-11 specification was introduced during World War II and called for the issue of mechanical timepieces to allied forces that were rigorous yet modest. Now that simple, cheap, and reliable quartz-based watches have claimed a majority stake in the military market, mechanical timepieces under A-11 specs no longer see real-world action. Nowadays, it's a matter of style as much as substance.
Sure, we could look at the popular A-11 suspects; Hamilton, CWC, or Elgin. But, I'd like to include Bulova in the mix, which has certainly earned its rightful place in history with a distinct take on the A-11 design.
This example is a modern-day Bulova 96B230, which is less about first impressions and more about the inevitable "second look." This piece follows the same classic and recognized A-11 aesthetic and at a passing glance, looks like just another field watch. Nothing to brag about. No bold statements other than perhaps the fairly large 42mm case and the subtle, fluted Bezel…right?
Well, if you take a closer look, you'll notice something very interesting. Suddenly you realize the movement, whatever witchcraft brought it to be, commands you to sit right there and marvel at the mesmerizing sweep. That's right, there are no ticks here; at least none visible to the human eye. Bulova has gone and made an otherwise run-of-the-mill watch absolutely hypnotic.
This particular model runs in stark contrast to the plethora of illegible and, dare I say, nauseating recent releases by Bulova. If these Invicta-esque designs were quietly discontinued, Bulova would definitely be gobbling up more market share than it already enjoys. From an outsider's perspective, this movement has everything going for it: extremely high accuracy, low/no maintenance, and an affordable cost. If the Bulova designers stopped squabbling, we could see some fascinating watches that look great and provide trouble-free accuracy, all for less than most comparable Seikos.
MOVEMENT
Let's delve into this movement first and foremost. Sandwiched between the dial and case back lives the magical Bulova Precisionist (P102) quartz movement. The vibration frequency of 262 kHz allows this movement to give 16 beats per second, yielding an accuracy of -/+ 10 seconds per year.
In terms of accuracy, the precision is in direct contention with Seiko's Spring Drive movement, which would cost you the equivalent of Omega or used Rolex money. With this movement, you can let the watch sit in a drawer for a year or more, pop it back on your wrist, and all you'll need to adjust is the date wheel. Also, with a hacking capability, you can perfectly set it to the second, not just the minute. Battery life may be slightly less than other standard beat-rate quartz movements, but still, there's virtually nothing to dislike about this movement.
CONSTRUCTION
With case dimensions of 42.3mm across, a lug-to-lug of 48mm, and a slim profile of only 11.5mm, it remains very comfortable on most wrists. As with most Bulovas, this will probably be out of the range of the very slimmest arms. The case style and versatile dark dial color make this watch a "strap monster" with 22mm lugs that will accommodate no shortage of strap options. I've found that single-pass natos, traditional buckle straps, and steel mesh bracelets are optimal choices.
By default, these Bulovas come supplied with traditional buckle straps in either O.D. green canvas or brown leather. I got this unit through an online friend who provided a basic O.D. NATO with it, so I can't comment on the quality of the original bands. The case finishing is well executed, with clean vertical brushing on the sides and polished beveled edging. The fluted Bezel gives a touch of elegance. It remains relatively thin, preventing it from overpowering the overall look and resulting in more of a "border" appearance than a full bezel. It also catches the light in most settings in an agreeable manner without looking gaudy. The coin-style edging on the signed crown also closely matches the bezel texture.
The flat screwed-on case back also permits this watch a low profile, rather than riding high or 'floating' on the wrist. This makes it easier to wear with almost any long-sleeve shirt. This factor, coupled with nearly infinite strap options, enables you to wear this watch to a party, a business meeting, or even a wedding in a pinch. Printing on said case back offers the usual information: serial/model numbers, brand, 100m water resistance (W.R.), Stainless Steel (type not specified, though likely 316L), and "Ultra High Frequency" with the triple-prong tuning fork Bulova logo alongside.
This tuning fork refers to the type of quartz crystal that allows the 262 kHz to function. The much-appreciated 100m water resistance, featuring a screw-down case back and signed crown, allows this watch to be used while swimming and bathing. It's more than viable for everyday, active lifestyles, but we'd never recommend scuba diving in a watch with a rating of below 200m.
CRYSTAL
The mineral crystal is raised with gentle-sloped edges that creates little to no distortion when viewed at an angle. Though adequate, the shortcoming of this crystal is that it is easy to pick up scratches that are difficult to correct. We’d definitely have preferred sapphire or even plastic, which could at least be spruced up with some PolyWatch compound.
DIAL / HANDS
As mentioned regarding the A-11 specs, the dial is simple with high contrast white numerals against a black matte finish, with a constant railroad-track minute border running around the edge. Printing is minimal (in white), with 'Bulova' at the noon position and 262kHz at 6 o'clock. The color-matched date wheel at the 6 o'clock position is a welcome function that maintains the symmetry and cohesion of the dial. The only slight niggle I have with the date window is I'd prefer a slim border around it. Sometimes, it gives the illusion of a misprint where the '6' ought to be, as the font is very similar to the other numbers.
The green lume, although thin, is applied to each numeral, which looks very interesting when brought into the dark. However, this lume is short-lived. The hour and minute hands are white and spear-shaped, with black bases. They are lumed in the same color as the numerals and last longer due to their thicker application. The second hand features no luminescence, though it hardly impedes functionality. It's a thin white stick with a dash of red on the tip, which matches the "60" on the minute track. While straightforward, the smoothness of the sweep is proof enough that its mission is already complete!
AVAILABILITY
One of the few downsides of this particular model is that availability is severely lacking. It's surprisingly been discontinued, and it seems Bulova never produced all that many of them to begin with. Not only is it absent from popular online dealers, but even most second-hand sites too. You can forget about finding this in regular department stores or on Amazon.
Searching eBay (worldwide) for months yielded no results for me, yet, I was obsessed with this piece and had to get one on my wrist. I finally acquired this unit from a Facebook group, and by sheer luck at that! I paid ~$220 USD, which included shipping from the UK to the US.
So, if you become equally hypnotized by this movement and dial, I'd recommend being patient and taking advantage of our esteemed online community. If you're in the market for a well-made, highly accurate, set-and-forget field watch, this 96B230 is a top-notch candidate.
To Round Up
The GOOD:
Classic A-11 design that fits any occasion
Strap monster (black dial, 22mm lugs)
Movement- Incredible accuracy and sweep
Symmetrical, clean dial
100m screw down crown & caseback
Thin case, not top-heavy
Good case finishing
Color matched date wheel
The Anti-Bulova Bulova = easy to look at, no gaudy distractions
The NEUTRAL:
Fluted Bezel (it’s not for everyone)
The BAD:
Limited availability (major luck/work involved)
Vulnerable mineral crystal
Interesting but poor lume
No steel bracelet (only two mediocre factory strap options)
Summary: If you're in the market for a decent and highly accurate, set it and forget it field watch, this is most definitely it. A must-have, everyday watch indeed!
If you're unable to get hold of these, it might be worth checking out Ben's Watch Club's previous review on perhaps the only other Precisionist watch worth buying.
