What do the Fibonacci series, theMona Lisa, a human skull, Mozart’sSonata No. 1 in C Major, and Gucci’s Fall 2020 collection all have in common?
Surprisingly, it’s a number — 1.61803399.
Also known as Phi (φ), the Golden Ratio, and the Divine Proportion, this irrational figure has intrigued scientists and artists for centuries. Popularized in 1509 by mathematician Luca Pacioli, Phi supposedly epitomizes the human perception of beauty when applied to two or more objects.
What is Phi?
As described in the diagram, Phi is the ratio of the longer line segment to the shorter segment, which is equal to the ratio of BOTH segments to the longer segment. These ratios are equal to roughly 1.618.
Mathematically, Phi has several fascinating properties and applications. It’s the positive answer to the quadratic equation, and theFibonacci seriesconverges on Phi. Its square is exactly one more than itself, and its reciprocal is exactly one less than itself. More mathematical applications can be foundhere.
In nature, Phi and thegolden spiral(an infinitely-recursive logarithmic spiral whose growth factor is φ) are found repeatedly in DNA, trees, plants, shellfish, andhuman skulls. They are present in architecture — from the Pyramids of Giza to the Notre Dame Cathedral — and inmusic, harmoniously dividing the different sections of Mozart’s piano sonatas and Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony. They can also be found in art —Da Vincicarefully considered golden proportions (which he called “secto aurea”) in hisMona Lisa,Vitruvian Man, andLast Supper.
Is Phi Found in Fashion?
“Fashion is architecture: it is a matter ofproportions” — Coco Chanel
When it comes to getting dressed, many experts consult the Golden Ratio to help balance proportions between different garments. It may be tough to eyeball a 1:1.618 ratio in the mirror, but balancing upper and lower pieces according to a 2:3 or 3:5 ratio creates a naturally aesthetic outfit. On the other hand, balancing pieces with a 1:1 ratio creates a boxier and potentially less stylish look. Some fashion-stylingcompaniesbase their entire philosophy on Golden proportions!
Likewise, a handful of fashion designers have created collections in accordance with the Golden Ratio and mathematical formulas.Sid Neigum, a Canadian designer with roots in math and science, consults Phi to create pieces with innately pleasing geometry. Neigumexplainsthat the Golden Ratio is so common in the human body that “bringing it into the garments just sits well” with his audience and “visually strikes a symmetrical chord.”
I love math — aremyfavorite looks influenced by the Golden Ratio? Although a few designers explicitly cite Phi as a source of inspiration, the majority of those currently reigning the fashion industry make no mention of math’s influence in their work. While designers may not deliberately model their looks after the Golden Ratio, perhaps mathematical principles guide them subconsciously.
I took 3 of my favorite looks from Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2020 Collection and another 3 from Gucci’s Fall 2020 collection and analyzed proportions among the various elements. Here’s the data (line measurements are in arbitrary units):
It seems that polished, traditionally stylish looks (like Gucci’s Looks 47 & 51 and McQueen’s Look 27) align with the Golden Ratio. More disheveled and innovative looks (like Gucci’s Look 38 and McQueen’s Look 37) stray from these proportions. Surprisingly, McQueen’s Look 35 aligns closely with the Golden Ratio despite its contemporary, avant-garde features. Even if it’s unintentional, it makes sense to find this ratio in high-fashion looks, considering the goal of both designing and using Phi is to create balance and beauty.
Whether you incorporate golden proportions into your next outfit, introducethisSid Neigum top to your closet, or calculate the ideal location to belt your dress, we can all harness math to become more stylish. Who would’ve guessed?
