Before the Lumiere brothers introduced the idea of autochrome plates in 1903, which producedcolor photos with color mosaics, photography lived in a black-and-white world. The first autochrome plates useddyed potato starch in green, violet-blue, and orange instead of what we now use:blue, green, and red. The brothers' autochrome plates were the standard colorization technique from 1907 until the subtractive color film in the 1930s. Though it may seem like an antiquated technique, the autochrome process was highly advanced for its time andisstill used today for the unique look it can give to photographs.
![Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (1) Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (1)](https://i0.wp.com/futuraphoto.com/media/5afbmqip/399px-genthe_autochrome.jpg?anchor=center&mode=crop&width=1170&height=1759&format=jpg&quality=75&rnd=132467725164370000)
How to Create the Autochrome Color Filter Mosaic Plate
Let's assume you're ready to start your autochrome process. The first step is to make the plate.
To create anautochrome plate, photographers cover a thin plate made of glass with transparent adhesive layers. They then spread apaste of dyed potato starch over the adhesive's surface. The starch is dyedgreen, violet-blue, and orange. Roughly 4,000 grains of the starch cover a square inch. Each grain is about five to ten micrometers.
The goalis to keep the glass plate as transparent as possible,minimize the space between each grain, and avoiding grains from overlapping. Applying pressure to the plate creates a clearer mosaic. This allows light toreach the emulsion more easily. The glass maybreak if you applypressure to the glass all at once, so use a steamroller to apply pressure to one area at a time.
Fill in spaces with Lampblack, the same substance used in printing ink,and coatwith a water-based gelatin emulsion. To prevent the grains from getting wet, cover the plate with shellac (a dissolved lac resin now popular in nail polish) and leave itto dry. When everything has dried, it becomes a full Autochrome Color Filter Mosaic Plate, which you then divideinto your preferred sizes. Cover the side that is going to facethe emulsion with a black paper. You'll remove the paper and load the plate when you're ready to use it.
![Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (2) Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (2)](https://i0.wp.com/futuraphoto.com/media/dnqf1btf/arnold_genthe-california_golden_poppies-_autochrome.jpg?anchor=center&mode=crop&width=1170&height=1621&format=jpg&quality=75&rnd=132467726170370000)
Using the Autochrome Color Filter Mosaic Plate
The autochrome plate comes with one side covered by a black cardboard paper to protect the emulsion. When putting it into the camera, the glass side should be in front of the lens. This is done so that light can go through a layer of glass and the mosaic filter before it reachesthe emulsion.
There is a risk of the sun's ultraviolet rays messing with the blue and violet light in daylight. You canhandle this issueby putting a yellowish-orange filter on the camera. This filter, however, dampens light intake, which in turn means that the autochrome plate has to be exposed for quite a while before you can take a picture.
You now have the coated plate and asilverlaminating filter. The silver halide actsas a micro-filter. It filters the spectrum of light that passes through it, allowing a particular amount of light to pass at a certain point. Thisproducesa unique proportion of the yellow, green, and violet-blue colors. The plate makes a reconstruction of the imageand blends the colors. Ittakes the appearance or color of the light that passed through the grain when you look at it.
![Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (3) Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (3)](https://i0.wp.com/futuraphoto.com/media/gdvlvnzu/ruth_st_denis_oriental_dance_genthe.jpg?anchor=center&mode=crop&width=1170&height=2063&format=jpg&quality=75&rnd=132467726917100000)
![Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (4) Colorizing Photos with Autochrome Plate (4)](https://i0.wp.com/futuraphoto.com/media/mn1d0nzn/service-pnp-matpc-11900-11901v.jpg?anchor=center&mode=crop&width=350&format=jpg&quality=75&rnd=132467728358400000)
Autochrome of the Past
Photographers could only use the first autochrome plateson standstill cameras because the picture took forever to expose.The subjectalso had to be incrediblystill (which is why you don't really see people smile in early photographs). After they took the picture, it had to bewashed by first developing the negatives, and the positives were produced by chemically removing the silver coverand exposing what was left to light.
The way autochrome plates were coated, dried, and recoated back in the day made them vulnerable to damage from the elements, like humidity. Each layer was made with a different material that was vulnerable to certain factors, and when one layer started deteriorating, it affected other layers as well. This was why autochrome plates were stored at about17 to 20 degrees Celsius in a very dry environment.
Autochromes, especially stereoscopicautochromes, became incredibly popular. You could even call it a photography addiction, despite the somewhat complicated process. But it's not hard to see why it is such a widespread practice. The color photographs of autochrome are vivid and subdued, antique, yet modern; it gives the picture an air of mystery and makes the subjects beautifully familiar.
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