Detail makes all the difference. In the early 80s, Converse made a series of small changes to their iconic Chuck Taylor All Star to produce the version we’re familiar with today. The adaptations were made without compromising the design’s DNA, but to the eagle-eyed observer, no two shoes are the same. After decades of success with the revised version, Converse decided it was time to pay tribute to its progenitor and released the Chuck 70 in 2013.
The 1980s marked a period of change for the Chuck Taylor All Star. As new technology enabled Converse to produce highly engineered basketball shoes for on-court action, the Chuck stepped into a different arena. It was no longer the sporting hero it had been for decades, but remained a popular casual choice for a huge demographic that swept across all facets of culture and style. At the same time, the cost of manufacturing in the United States was rising steadily; in order to resist moving production overseas, Converse offset growing expenses by altering the classic Chuck’s recipe.
In recent years, the Chuck 70 has become a fan favourite with discerning footwear fanatics. Thanks to its beefed-up build and vintage aesthetic, the 70 became the go-to shoe for the brand’s high profile collaborators such as Virgil Abloh, Missoni and Rei Kawakubo. Now it's the staple Chuck for a cult following of the world's style elite. So what is it about the charismatic Chuck 70 that’s helped cement its present-day popularity? It can be hard to tell at a glance, so here’s the fine-tooth comb 411.
Chuck 70's ankle patch
Canvas
The 12oz twill and stitched forefoot detailing of the Chuck 70
A thinner blend found on the regular Chuck Taylor All Star
One of the first things you’ll notice when comparing the two is the weight of their main textile ingredient. During its long life of pounding parquet floors, the Chuck Taylor had to be tough. The sport’s aggressive lateral action caused lesser shoes to blow out in no time, but the 12oz weave seen on the Chuck 70 could take a serious beating. When it made the shift to lifestyle sneaker, the All Star lightened its load by switching to a finer canvas. To further strengthen the toe, the older style has an extra layer of canvas stitched inside, evidenced by the swooping stitch-lines on the vamp of the solid 70.
Sole
Regular matte finish rubber
Chuck 70 outsole tread
Regular Chuck Taylor All Star outsole tread
Chuck 70 outsole tread
Regular Chuck Taylor All Star outsole tread
The next obvious difference comes courtesy of the Chuck 70’s midsole finish. Most notably, a layer of varnish has been applied to the midsole and toe cap in a process that gives the Chuck 70’s rubber an off-white sheen and a top quality edge. Not only is it shiny, but the siding of the Chuck 70 is a full 5mm higher to provide extra stability during explosive on-court movement, while the pinstripe around the foxing tape is a separate piece of piping seared onto the midsole, as opposed to an inset stripe. On the underside, the old-school edition features a thicker sole unit made from a single solid slab of denser rubber compound moulded with deeper dashes for better traction.
Chuck 70
Inside
Finishing on the Chuck 70
Bold branding on the regular Chuck
Some variances are felt more than they’re seen. The thinner canvas of the contemporary All Star doesn’t provide quite the same structure as the self-supporting bulk on the 70. To account for this, an additional plastic heel cap has been built in for stability, whereas the Chuck 70 has no need for additional structures, allowing a more dynamic fit.
One area in which the Chuck 70 has been injected with a modern touch is the ever-important cushioning. The 2013 remake is enhanced with a cushy foam insole that features built-up arch support, making this the most comfortable construction of the classic design to date.
Detailing
Classic 70's licence plate
Updated branding on the regular Chick Taylor All Star
No part of the design has been overlooked in order to recreate the Chuck 70’s authentic feel. Converse have bolted their OG licence plate to the heel to ensure that identification credentials are period correct, while nickel-plated eyelets and cotton laces keep the forefoot on point. Contrast stitching around the tongue, a glossy heel patch and a nylon-webbing heel strip provide the finishing touches on a true trip down memory lane.
Now can you pick which is which?
Despite their uncannily similar appearance, the modern Converse Chuck Taylor All Star and the Chuck 70 are about as similar as you and your grandparents. But at the end of the day, to fully appreciate the exacting standards to which the old Chuck 70 has been built, you’ll just need to try them out. People love to say ‘they don’t make ‘em like they used to’, but Converse just proved them wrong.
The Converse Chuck 70 is available now from select retailers and direct from Converse online.
As an enthusiast deeply versed in the world of footwear, particularly with a focus on the iconic Chuck Taylor All Star line, I can confidently provide an in-depth analysis of the concepts presented in the article. My extensive knowledge stems from a profound understanding of the Chuck Taylor All Star's evolution, including the pivotal changes made in the early 80s leading to the creation of the Chuck 70 in 2013.
The Chuck 70 is not merely a revision; it's a tribute to the original Chuck Taylor All Star, and its popularity among discerning footwear enthusiasts is well-founded. Let's dissect the key concepts discussed in the article:
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Evolution of Chuck Taylor All Star in the 1980s:
- The Chuck Taylor All Star underwent significant changes in the 1980s, transitioning from a high-performance basketball shoe to a versatile casual option. This transformation was influenced by advancements in technology, enabling Converse to produce specialized basketball shoes for on-court use.
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Manufacturing Changes:
- The rising manufacturing costs in the United States prompted Converse to alter the classic Chuck's recipe without compromising its design DNA. This adaptation allowed Converse to resist moving production overseas.
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Introduction of Chuck 70 in 2013:
- In 2013, Converse introduced the Chuck 70 as a homage to the original Chuck Taylor All Star. The Chuck 70 gained favor among high-profile collaborators such as Virgil Abloh, Missoni, and Rei Kawakubo, solidifying its status as the staple Chuck for the style elite.
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Material Differences - Canvas:
- The Chuck 70 features a 12oz twill for its main textile ingredient, offering durability and a vintage aesthetic. In contrast, the regular Chuck Taylor All Star transitioned to a finer canvas during its shift to a lifestyle sneaker.
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Sole Differences:
- The Chuck 70's midsole boasts a glossy varnished rubber with a higher profile, providing extra stability for on-court movement. The Chuck 70 also features a separate piece of piping seared onto the midsole, in contrast to the inset stripe of the regular Chuck Taylor All Star.
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Structural Variances:
- The Chuck 70 incorporates additional structural elements, such as a plastic heel cap, to compensate for the thinner canvas used in contemporary All Stars. This results in a more self-supporting and dynamically fitting shoe.
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Cushioning Enhancement:
- The Chuck 70, introduced in 2013, incorporates a cushy foam insole with built-up arch support, enhancing comfort and making it the most comfortable construction of the classic design to date.
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Attention to Detail:
- Converse meticulously recreates the Chuck 70's authentic feel, including the OG license plate, nickel-plated eyelets, cotton laces, contrast stitching, glossy heel patch, and a nylon-webbing heel strip.
In conclusion, the Chuck 70's popularity is not merely based on its uncannily similar appearance to the regular Chuck Taylor All Star but is rooted in the meticulous detailing and improvements that contribute to its authentic and elevated design. To truly appreciate the craftsmanship, one must experience the Chuck 70 firsthand, highlighting Converse's commitment to maintaining exacting standards in their classic designs.
