Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (2024)

Fashion

Why was the fashion icon drawn to tartan, houndstooth and skulls?

by Katherine Gleason

Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (1)

Models walk the runway in herringbone ensembles at Alexander McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2009 fashion show during Paris Fashion Week. Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage

British fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen, the original creative engine behind the Alexander McQueen label, was beloved for his expert tailoring and theatrical runway shows. After his suicide in 2010, fans left tributes to the man and his talents outside Alexander McQueen boutiques worldwide. Record-breaking crowds visited the posthumous retrospective of the designer’s work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Victoria and Albert in London.

That exhibition, titled “Savage Beauty,” presented McQueen’s fashion creations as art. And curator Andrew Bolton placed McQueen within the Romantic tradition. “Like Byron, Beethoven and Delacroix,” Bolton wrote in the exhibition catalogue, “McQueen is an exemplar of the Romantic individual, the hero-artist who staunchly followed the dictates of his inspiration.”

McQueen’s inspirations came from many quarters — film, music, current events, history, his heritage and fashions of the past. His runway presentations were not just displays of clothing but were personal expressions of the zeitgeist, often touching on our cultural anxieties and concerns. McQueen’s own thoughts and feelings about love, death, gender, genocide, colonialism, global warming and the extinction of species all appear in his pieces.

“What you see in the work is the person himself. And my heart is in my work,” McQueen told Harper’s Bazaar in 2007. It is perhaps this heart, and the heart’s exposure, that drew the crowds and made McQueen creations both popular and emotionally resonant. Because the work was personal and thus layered with feeling, the motifs — decorative embellishments and fabric choices — have meaning. In other words, in McQueen’s oeuvre, plaid is more than simply a pattern.

Tartan

Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (2)

Men’s tartan plaid kimono, Autumn/Winter 2006. Offered by Resurrection

The use of tartan references the fraught history of Scotland and the designer’s Scottish heritage. The provocative Autumn/Winter 1995–96 collection, called “Highland Rape,” saw McQueen’s first employment of this plaid. The presentation of the collection elicited high emotions. Was McQueen expressing misogyny? Or was he commenting on Scotland’s history? “Widows of Culloden,” the Autumn/Winter 2006–7 collection, which cites the last battle of the 1745 Jacobite Rising, featured this tartan to great effect. McQueen created a range of ensembles, from outfits resembling traditional highland dress to Victorian-style ball gowns.

Houndstooth

Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (3)

Houndstooth check cocoon coat, Autumn/Winter 2009. Offered by Resurrection

Although houndstooth plaid probably originated in Scotland in the 19th century, the pattern is strongly identified with designer Christian Dior and his New Look, which debuted in 1947. Dior even used the jagged checks on the packaging of his perfume Miss Dior. For a 2009 runway presentation with a recycling theme, McQueen created exaggerated versions of iconic 20th-century fashions, including Dior’s New Look outfits. Note that McQueen has enlarged the typical size of the pattern, creating a bold, graphic statement.

Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (4)

The Horn of Plenty egg chairs, Autumn/Winter 2009. Offered by Aubéry

That same year, McQueen produced a limited-edition houndstooth version of the egg chair that he’d originally created for his New York and London boutiques. The checkered chairs bear another McQueen signature: skull-shaped zipper pulls.

Skulls

Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (5)

Cream and red maple leaf Toronto Olympics limited edition scarf, 21st century. Offered by LGS

McQueen used skulls (and bones) throughout his work, starting with his 1992 graduate collection, which focused on Jack the Ripper and his victims. The skull, of course, is a memento mori, a reminder of death. McQueen frequently juxtaposed the glamour of the catwalk with intimations of our coming doom. McQueen’s skull scarf appeared in his Spring 2003 collection. Inspired by the 1986 Roland Joffé film The Mission, the collection featured pirate looks and a shipwreck theme. The scarf soon became a must-have for celebrities and tastemakers, and it was reproduced by counterfeiters worldwide. The skull-clasp evening bag has also become an iconic McQueen accessory.

Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (6)

Hardcase embroidered skull evening clutch, 21st century. Offered by One of a Kind

Browse More Alexander McQueen

Katherine Gleason is the author of Alexander McQueen: Evolution (Race Point Publishing).

Posted on May 23, 2017

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Decoding Alexander McQueen’s Favorite Patterns (2024)

FAQs

What technique does Alexander McQueen use? ›

As one can see in Savage Beauty, McQueen often used traditional craft techniques such as embroidery, lace making, and metalworking to create his radically modern designs. Opting most commonly for embellished, ornamented surfaces, he used printed or woven textiles only very rarely.

What were the characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion? ›

McQueen's work was admired for its highly original blend of subversion and tradition, evident from the outset in his 'Bumster' trousers, sharp frock coats, corroded fabrics, slashed leather and shredded, flesh-revealing lace. You've got to know the rules to break them.

What was Alexander McQueen's philosophy of design? ›

However, the largest difference between his designs and those seen before his, were that his were not made to be attractive or fashionable, but to be beautiful and though-provoking. Not only were his designs not classically 'pretty', they were also incredibly controversial.

What was one of McQueen's most prevalent themes for his collections? ›

Romantic Primitivism

Throughout his career, Alexander McQueen frequently returned to the theme of primitivism, which drew upon the fantasy of the noble savage living in harmony with the natural world.

What is Alexander McQueen's most famous design? ›

One of McQueen's most famous motifs was the skull, which can be seen on this "knucklebag." The skull appears often throughout his work, serving as a morbid reminder of mortality amongst the glitz and glamour of the catwalk. His iconic skull scarf became a celebrity must-have and was copied around the world.

What is the strategy of Alexander McQueen? ›

Overall, Alexander McQueen's marketing strategies focus on creativity, exclusivity, and storytelling to differentiate itself in the competitive luxury fashion market.

What colors did Alexander McQueen use? ›

Alexander McQueen preferred using the extreme color contrasts of red and black.

What caused Alexander McQueen's death? ›

On 17 February 2010, Westminster Coroner's Court was told that a post-mortem examination found that McQueen's death was due to asphyxiation and hanging. The inquest was adjourned until 28 April 2010, when his death was officially recorded as suicide.

Who was Alexander McQueen's target audience? ›

Although Alexander McQueen offers products to all genders, their campaigns mainly targets women through using female models and extensive advertising for women collections.

What was Alexander McQueen's nickname? ›

Throughout his life, McQueen was known by many nicknames, including "l'enfant terrible," like his contemporary Jean-Paul Gaultier, or "the hooligan of English Fashion" because of his rebellious nature.

What are some interesting facts about Alexander McQueen? ›

McQueen grew up in London's East End; he was the youngest of six children of a father who was a taxicab driver and a mother who was a social studies teacher and genealogist. At age 16 McQueen left school and was employed at London's Anderson & Sheppard, where he tailored suits for Mikhail Gorbachev and Prince Charles.

What was Alexander McQueen's personality? ›

His manner was often gruff and rude, even to those he liked: Isabella Blow, (pictured right with McQueen) who was broke when she bought his entire first collection and had to pay for it in installments, told me once how he used to march her to the cashpoint every week to get £50 out. Yet he genuinely adored Blow.

Why was McQueen so controversial? ›

McQueen's notorious "Highland Rape" show featured models in torn, disheveled outfits festooned with what appeared to be feminine hygiene paraphenalia. Under critical attack, McQueen revealed that the clothes symbolized the "rape" of Scotland by the British.

Who is the creative direction of Alexander McQueen? ›

Seán McGirr is Creative Director of Alexander McQueen. An Irish national, born in Dublin in 1988, he is a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, where he obtained a Master of Arts in Fashion in 2014 under the late professor Louise Wilson.

What is McQueen based on? ›

While McQueen is certainly partly inspired by the C6. R Corvette, his bodywork is an original design inspired by many different race cars, but mainly based on the Generation 4 NASCARs that made up the top level Stock Car field when the movie was released in 2006.

What is so special about Alexander McQueen sneakers? ›

It comes down to a few simple reasons: Alexander McQueen sneakers are crafted using the most exquisite, luxurious materials: smooth, supple calfskin and rubber. They are 100% made in Italy, where factory workers make a fair, livable wage.

How does Alexander McQueen use nature? ›

Nature and its materials were a constant in McQueen's work. He incorporated hair, wood, shells, coral, feathers, horns, and even taxidermy into his designs. In addition, through sculptural means and printed textiles, thorns, reptile skins and blood were also referenced.

What sustainability practices did Alexander McQueen use? ›

It's set a science based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions in both its direct operations and supply chain, and it claims it's on track. It has a policy to reduce the chemical-heavy chromium processes in its leather tanning. It has a policy to protect biodiversity throughout its supply chain.

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