Diversity and inclusivity have been two main words used when discussing progress in the fashion industry - or any industry. However, they often get mixed up, or are presumed to mean the same thing. In this study we will explore the definitions of both and how they point to where the fashion industry needs to go next.
Why does fashion have a part to play in racial equality? Because, it is one of the biggest industries in the world; one based on self expression and creativity. Fashion doesn’t just sell garments, it sells self esteem and personal identity; fashion cannot fulfil it’s true duty as an art form if it is not diverse nor inclusion. Also, every part of society needs to reform if there is going to be real change, and fashion is known for having a bad reputationwith race.
DIVERSITY IN FASHION
Diversity means ‘the mix’ of something; it is the difference within a group of people. That difference can be gender, sexuality, disability, body image... However, this study will only focus on the specifics of race within the fashion industry. In the fashion industry diversity can be measured within advertising; the certain people who are chosen to represent a brand in campaigns or on runways.
The Fashion Spot has carried out many surveys and studies into the changing scene of fashion advertisem*nt and they reported that of the 529 models featured in Spring 2019 fashion campaigns 34.50% were black models. Similarly, a year later at the Spring/ Summer 2020 New York Fashion Week 47% of models walking the runway were black. This is progress compared to when The Fashion Spot first started recording these number in 2015 when there were only 17% black models.
Fashion campaigns seem to be moving in the right direction - towards a more diverse representation. Fashion brands, generally, want to be seen, by the public, as more progressive and refresh their image to keep up with social change. Advertisem*nt is extremely important; it is seen as a demonstration of what is beautiful, unique and what should be celebrated. It must be diverse in all aspects if it is to truly appeal to, and represent, society. However, sometimes it can be difficult to know what real change looks like. For example, on the Fall 2018 Prada runway, Anok Yai made history as the first black model in 20 years to open a Prada show. However, should Prada really be applauded for this? We all know Prada’s problematic past, namely, the “Pradamalia” objects that resembled blackface in December 2018. Can this one gesture -a black model opening their show - really be seen as progress?
This is where inclusivity becomes extremely important - real change goes a lot deeper than just having black people in an advertisem*nt campaign. Models might represent a company image; and it’s important to see models of colour in these campaigns. But, they don’t have any input nor control over what that company actually produces.
