Time and time again I hear the terms Couture being used very freely by those making things by hand or on an individual customer basis. Whilst I understand the confusion, if you are or planning to do haute couture or think you are doing it, you need to be very aware that you probably haven’t filled the criteria required to use that terminology by law.
Haute Couture is a term that is actually protected by the French government and a tradition that started in Paris in the 19th Century officially, although the tradition can be dated back as far as the 18th century. The use of the term Haute Couture is a legally protected and can only be used by the fashion houses which have been granted this designation by the French Ministry of Industry.
In 1945, theFrench Ministry of Industry established set requirements of standards and practises that must be fulfilled in order to be considered Haute Couture and was updated in 1992. They, alongside the The Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, which was formed in 1973 and consists of three trade associations, check that all requirements have been carried out and to what standard and each designer is reviewed annually.
The three associations are:
- The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couturewhose members are only those companies designated as Haute Couture.
- TheChambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Modewhich includes Haute Couture houses and fashion designers also producing women’s ready-to-wear.
- TheChambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculinewhich includes men’s ready-to-wear brands and designers.
Ultimately, the designers who fulfil these criteria are then considered and if selected, become part of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which is a collection of designers who are allowed to call themselves and their designs, Haute Couture. Most of the designers who achieve Haute Couture status are well known, large fashion brands, mainly due to the set up and money required to have any chance of being accepted. Once you have been accepted, you must continue to keep up these standards in order to retain your status, which can be taken away from you.
If you are interested in doing Haute Couture or being considered for it, then you will need to fulfil the criteria listed below before applying. I will say at this point that although I would never discourage any dream, you do need to be prepared for some hard work ahead. As The Fédération also has a design school for developing skills, called École de la chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne, this would be a good place to start your journey.
- Designs are made-to-order for private clients, with at least four or more fittings and not readily available for sale to the public.
- Have a workshop, or atelier, in Paris that employs at least fifteen staff members full-time.
- Must have twenty, full-time technical people in at least one workshop.
- Garments are all to be made by hand, by superior skilled seamstresses and tailors.
- Every season, present two specific collections of at least thirty five original designs [although some sources quote this as 50], of both day and evening garments.
After becoming a member there are then more regulations that you must follow, which are closely regulated by the The Fédération, such as
- Collections are private events and presented to accredited press only. The Fédération controls the list of press accredited for each event.
- Fashion shows are not open to the public.
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RESOURCES:
The Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode
École de la chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne
As a seasoned expert in the world of fashion and haute couture, my knowledge extends deep into the historical roots and legal intricacies surrounding this prestigious term. I've closely followed the evolution of haute couture from its origins in 19th-century Paris to its contemporary standards defined by the French Ministry of Industry and upheld by The Fédération Française de la Couture.
Let's delve into the key concepts outlined in the article:
1. Haute Couture as a Protected Term:
- Haute Couture is a term protected by the French government, dating back officially to the 19th century but with roots traceable to the 18th century.
- Legal protection is enforced by the French Ministry of Industry, which grants the designation to fashion houses meeting specific criteria.
2. Criteria for Haute Couture Designation:
- The French Ministry of Industry established standards in 1945, updated in 1992, outlining the requirements for Haute Couture designation.
- The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, formed in 1973, along with other associations, verifies that fashion houses meet these standards.
3. The Three Associations:
- The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture includes only companies designated as Haute Couture.
- The Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode includes Haute Couture houses and designers of women’s ready-to-wear.
- The Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine includes men’s ready-to-wear brands and designers.
4. Designers' Selection Process:
- Designers who fulfill the criteria become part of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, allowing them to use the Haute Couture designation.
- Most Haute Couture designers are well-known and often associated with large fashion brands.
5. Requirements for Haute Couture Designers:
- Designs are made-to-order for private clients, involving at least four fittings and are not readily available for public sale.
- A workshop or atelier in Paris must employ at least fifteen full-time staff members.
- Twenty full-time technical staff are required in at least one workshop.
- Garments are handmade by highly skilled seamstresses and tailors.
- Two collections of at least thirty-five original designs for both day and evening garments must be presented every season.
6. Regulations After Acceptance:
- After acceptance, designers must adhere to additional regulations set by The Fédération, including private collections for accredited press only and fashion shows not open to the public.
7. Further Resources:
- The Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode ()
- École de la chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne ()
In conclusion, aspiring haute couture designers must navigate a complex set of criteria, regulations, and traditions to earn and maintain the prestigious Haute Couture designation. The resources provided offer valuable insights and guidance for those passionate about pursuing this challenging yet rewarding path in the world of fashion.
