There are few things grander in fashion than haute couture. With a miniscule client base (approximately 4,000 worldwide) and an exclusive allocation of industry tickets for runway presentations, the practice can seem entirely fanciful and out of reach. In truth, the art of couture is a tightly controlled, invite-only application, governed by Paris’s Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) with widespread influence on the fashion industry at large.
Founded in 1868, the FHCM preserves the exacting standards of French fashion culture by presiding over Paris Women’s and Men’s Fashion Weeks, as well as endorsing and nurturing designers who exhibit a quality of craftsmanship that meets the level required to show on the official Haute Couture schedule.
Vogue speaks to key figures within the organisation about the inner workings of this enigmatic French institution.
Who are couture’s key players?
Backstage at Dior Haute Couture spring/summer 2019.
The Fédération has approximately 100 members and comprises three Chambres Syndicales, or central bodies (Haute Couture, Women’s Fashion and Men’s Fashion). FHCM president Ralph Toledano works alongside the executive commitee – Francesca Bellettini (Saint Laurent), Guillaume de Seynes, (Hermès), Bruno Pavlovsky (Chanel), Sidney Toledano (LVMH), and Pascal Morand, Executive President, Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion – for Haute Couture alone.
Approved fashion houses can be supported in strategic, communication, marketing, and economic, technological, cultural and even political possibilities – and Haute Couture members also gain a position on the official couture schedule. As of January 2020, couture members include Adeline André, Alexandre Vauthier, Alexis Mabille, Chanel, Christian Dior, Franck Sorbier, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Julien Fournié, Maison Margiela, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Maurizio Galante, Schiaparelli, and Stéphane Rolland.
What is the purpose of haute couture?
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture autumn/winter 2018.
