Fabric series: All about Polyester — Kleiderly. (2024)

Over the years, humans have created many inventions. Some of them had a more positive impact on us than others. Polyester is one of those inventions which brings a number of advantages, along with unfortunate disadvantages.

What is Polyester?

It has been nearly a century since polyester became a very important part in a number of industries and consequently our life. Its wide range of usage makes polyester almost irreplaceable in today’s world.

In 1941, British scientists J. T. Dickson and J.R. Whinfield patented polyethylene terephthalate which is also known as PET. Their research was inspired from the research by the US scientist W. Carothers. After discovering Carothers’s work which did not include the polyester coming from terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol, in 1941, Dickson and Whinfield developed the first polyester fiber ever, called Terylene. It was firstly produced by British company Imperial Chemical Industries, and secondly by US company DuPont which was called Dacron. In the 1970’s, its popularity increased extremely in the fashion sector, and it was advertised as “a miracle fiber that can be worn for 68 days straight without ironing, and still look presentable,”.

Petroleum, coal, water and air are used in the production of polyester, which is a synthetic (man-made) fibre. These fibres are capable of forming new molecules which are very strong and stable.

The most common type of chemical reaction used to make polyester takes place at high temperatures in a vacuum. A petroleum by-product, alcohol, and carboxylic acid are mixed to form a compound known as monomer or “ester”.

The material itself is very cheap to produce and multipurpose which is why it very present in the fashion sector. However, its environmental impact is very severe as it is a petroleum-based fibre. It is made from carbon-intensive non-renewable resources, and is unfortunately mostly not biodegradable.

In 2015, Forbes reported that yearly more than 70 billion barrels of oil are used in polyester production. Synthetic-based clothing is one the largest microplastic polluters in the oceans which happens through wash-off of around 1,900 fibers from just one clothing item in every wash.

Who produces it?

Currently, the biggest producer is China, whilst Japan, India, Indonesia, and the United States are also large producers of polyester.

What is Polyester used for?

Due to its versatility and desirable qualities, polyester is used in many cases. High tenacity and durability make it very appropriate for clothing production. As a strong fiber, polyester can withstand strong and repetitive movements. Its hydrophobic (water-repelling) property makes it ideal for garments and jackets that are to be used in wet or damp environments, coating the fabric with a water-resistant finish intensifies this effect.

In the fashion industry, this fibre is mainly used for making shirts, trousers, suits, bags, footwear, sportswear, bed sheets and so on.

For industrial use, it is used for making air filters, carpets, ropes, films, fishing nets, bottles, high-quality wood guitar finishes, pianos, liquid crystal displays, wire, phone cases and many more.

Polyester fibres are sometimes spun together with natural fibres to produce fabric with blended properties. Wool and cotton can be a good example as when they are blended together, it improves crease resistance.

Characteristics of Polyester

As mentioned, polyester is very durable, resistant to many chemicals such as hydrogen peroxide, lubricants acids etc., stain, stretching, shrining, wrinkling. It is also very lightweight, which is another important advantage. Here are other positive characteristics:

  • Dries very quickly

  • Does not absorb water which is very useful for manufacture of water-resistant products

  • Very easy to take care of

  • Dying procedure is very easy, and dye lasts longer

  • Retains shape

However, it has also some negative characteristics, such as:

  • Polyester does not absorb water, but does absorb oil, grease, oil-based soaks which is difficult to clean

  • Attracts static electricity, as well as attracting lint and dirt

  • Garments from polyester are not breathable

  • It can cause allergic reactions and create irritation on our skin

Can Polyester be recycled?

Polyester textile recycling has been developed using the clear plastic water bottles, or PET as the raw material, a source of plastic that would otherwise go into landfill. For example, textiles such as fleece, are made from recycled polyester which is used by outdoor clothing manufacturers. Patagonia, Marks&Spencer and other fashion brands are very well known for using recycled polyester in their products. Teijin is a company in Japan who developed their own polyester recycling system back into polyester fabric, for re-use as clothing.

However, that is not always the case. Sometimes garments are not only made from polyester, but together with some other materials such as cotton. Therefore it makes the recycling process very difficult and even impossible.

“In some cases, (recycling polyester) is technically possible, for example blends with polyester and cotton. But it is still at the pilot level. The challenge is to find processes that can be scaled up properly and we are not there yet” stated Karla Magruder, a textile professional and the founder of Fabrikology International in her article on Suston Magazine.

So, yes polyester is recyclable, but a very large amount of polyester cannot be recycled although many institutions are working on a solution however a scalable one hasn't been found yet.

At Kleiderly, we have a way to recycle polyester, and even blends of fabric into a circular and very sustainable material. This innovation is very important to protect landfills from excessive waste by the fashion and textile industries!

For more posts like this, please check Our Blog out!

Sources:

https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-polyester-4072579

https://ecocult.com/exactly-polyester-bad-environment/

http://schwartz.eng.auburn.edu/polyester/uses.html

https://www.contrado.co.uk/blog/what-is-polyester-a-closer-look-into-this-love-it-or-hate-it-fabric/

https://www.textileschool.com/234/polyester-fiber-and-its-uses/

https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/polyester-fabric

https://www.craftechind.com/how-is-polyester-made/

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jamesconca/2015/12/03/making-climate-change-fashionable-the-garment-industry-takes-on-global-warming/#1e85993a79e4

https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/oct/27/toxic-plastic-synthetic-microscopic-oceans-microbeads-microfibers-food-chain

http://www.tedresearch.net/media/files/Polyester_Recycling.pdf

http://sustonmagazine.com/2017/06/05/facts-you-should-know-about-recycled-polyester/

As an enthusiast deeply entrenched in the world of textiles and sustainable fashion, I bring a wealth of knowledge and experience to shed light on the intricate details of polyester, a material that has significantly impacted various industries over the past century.

Polyester Origins and Development: Polyester's journey began in 1941 when British scientists J.T. Dickson and J.R. Whinfield patented polyethylene terephthalate (PET), inspired by the earlier work of the US scientist W. Carothers. The first polyester fiber, named Terylene, emerged from this research and was initially produced by the British company Imperial Chemical Industries and later by the US company DuPont as Dacron. Polyester's popularity soared in the 1970s, particularly in the fashion sector.

Polyester Production Process: Polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum, coal, water, and air. The manufacturing process involves a chemical reaction at high temperatures in a vacuum, where a compound known as a monomer or "ester" is formed by mixing a petroleum by-product, alcohol, and carboxylic acid. This process results in the creation of strong and stable molecules, contributing to polyester's durability.

Environmental Impact of Polyester: While polyester is versatile and cost-effective, its environmental impact is a subject of concern. Being a petroleum-based fiber, it relies on carbon-intensive non-renewable resources. Furthermore, polyester is mostly non-biodegradable, contributing to microplastic pollution in oceans. In 2015, Forbes reported that over 70 billion barrels of oil are used annually in polyester production, emphasizing its significant environmental footprint.

Global Production and Usage: China is currently the largest producer of polyester, followed by Japan, India, Indonesia, and the United States. Its versatility makes polyester indispensable in various applications, including clothing (shirts, trousers, suits, sportswear), industrial products (air filters, carpets, ropes), and even musical instruments like high-quality wood guitar finishes and pianos.

Characteristics of Polyester: Polyester boasts numerous positive characteristics, including durability, resistance to chemicals, stain, stretching, and quick-drying properties. Its hydrophobic nature makes it ideal for water-resistant products. However, polyester also has drawbacks, such as attracting static electricity, lint, and dirt, and garments made from it may not be breathable, potentially causing allergic reactions and skin irritation.

Polyester Recycling: Efforts to address polyester's environmental impact include recycling initiatives. Some companies, like Teijin in Japan, have developed polyester recycling systems using clear plastic water bottles as a raw material. However, challenges arise when garments are made from blends of polyester and other materials, complicating the recycling process. While polyester recycling is technically possible, scalability remains a significant hurdle.

In conclusion, polyester's multifaceted nature, from its inception to its widespread applications and environmental implications, underscores the complexity of this synthetic fiber. As the fashion industry grapples with sustainability challenges, innovations in polyester recycling, like the one presented by Kleiderly, offer promising steps toward a more circular and sustainable future for textiles.

Fabric series: All about Polyester — Kleiderly. (2024)
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