Add baking salt to your dry-brine for the crispiest, juiciest turkey and chicken.
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Niki Achitoff-Gray is the former editor-in-chief at Serious Eats and a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She's pretty big into oysters, offal, and most edible things.
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Updated March 02, 2023
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:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/__opt__aboutcom__coeus__resources__content_migration__serious_eats__seriouseats.com__images__2014__11__20141113-baking-steel-turkey-recipe-8-f5cfff873a3743769b7a828e36d8b05e.jpg "For the Crispiest Chicken (and Turkey) Skin, Grab the Baking Powder (2)")
Over the years, our recipe development team has spent a lot of time tackling the best ways to cook poultry. Want the fastest and most evenly cooked whole bird? Spatchco*ck that baby. Looking for the juiciest, most tender boneless, skinless grilled breasts? We've got a technique for that, too. Not sure whether brining your turkey is worth the fuss? Here's everything you need to know. What's that? You want to get into the sous vide chicken game? Look no further than our complete guide.
But of all the handy tips and methods I've learned over my years at Serious Eats, there's one poultry-related trick that I turn to more than any other. In fact, I use it literally every single time I cook skin-on chicken, turkey, duck, or goose. That trick is a sprinkling of baking powder, and it'll get you the crispiest, crackliest bites of fatty, salty skin imaginable, whether you're cooking just one thigh, a plate of wings, or an entire bird.
Baking powder, it turns out, is good for quite a lot more than baking. The slightly alkaline mixture raises the skin's pH levels, which allows proteins to break down more efficiently, giving you crisper, more evenly browned results.* Simultaneously, it combines with the bird's natural juices, forming carbon dioxide gas that leaves you with a layer of tiny bubbles. It's these bubbles that increase the skin's surface area, allowing it to develop a crunchy texture once cooked.
*It's worth noting here that while baking soda will produce a similar texture, it also adds an unpleasant metallic flavor to the skin, so I wouldn't advise substituting one for the other.
To reap those benefits, simply combine one part baking powder with three to four parts kosher salt (about a teaspoon of baking powder per tablespoon of kosher salt will work), add some black pepper to taste, then sprinkle it evenly over the surface of the skin. Then—and this is key—let it rest, uncovered, in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours. This resting period doesn't just give the baking powder time to form all those little bubbles; it also lets the salt do its thing, dry-brining the meat for more intensely flavored, better-seasoned results. It's a whole lot of bang for very little buck, and all it really requires is a bit of advance planning and some space in the fridge. Put the method to work on our classic roast chicken, your Thanksgiving turkey, a Christmas goose, these baked Buffalo chicken wings (that really taste fried), or pretty much any skin-on poultry preparation you please. Oh yeah, and while we're at it, it'll totally work on pork skin, too. You're welcome.
October 2016
As someone deeply immersed in the culinary world, particularly in the realm of poultry preparation, I can confidently attest to the transformative power of incorporating baking powder into your cooking routine, especially when dealing with skin-on chicken, turkey, duck, or goose. The article you provided, authored by Niki Achitoff-Gray, perfectly captures the essence of this culinary revelation.
Now, let's break down the key concepts and techniques discussed in the article:
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Dry-Brining with Baking Powder:
- The article suggests adding baking powder to a dry-brine for poultry, emphasizing the benefits of achieving the crispiest and juiciest results.
- The combination of baking powder and kosher salt is recommended, with a suggested ratio of one part baking powder to three to four parts kosher salt.
- The dry-brining process involves sprinkling the mixture evenly over the surface of the poultry's skin and letting it rest, uncovered, in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.
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Chemistry Behind Baking Powder:
- Baking powder, though traditionally associated with baking, is revealed to have a unique function in enhancing the texture of poultry skin.
- Its slightly alkaline nature is said to raise the skin's pH levels, facilitating more efficient breakdown of proteins and resulting in crisper, evenly browned skin.
- The baking powder also interacts with the bird's natural juices, producing carbon dioxide gas that creates a layer of tiny bubbles on the skin. These bubbles contribute to an increased surface area, leading to a crunchy texture upon cooking.
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Baking Powder vs. Baking Soda:
- The article cautions against substituting baking soda for baking powder, as baking soda can impart an unpleasant metallic flavor to the skin.
- Baking powder is recommended for achieving the desired texture without compromising the flavor of the poultry.
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Resting Period for Dry-Brining:
- The resting period in the refrigerator is highlighted as a crucial step in the process. It allows the baking powder to form bubbles and permits the kosher salt to dry-brine the meat.
- This dual action enhances the flavor of the poultry, ensuring a more intensely flavored and better-seasoned result.
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Versatility of the Technique:
- The article emphasizes the versatility of this technique, suggesting its application to various skin-on poultry preparations, including roast chicken, Thanksgiving turkey, Christmas goose, and even baked Buffalo chicken wings.
- Additionally, it mentions that the method is effective for pork skin as well.
In conclusion, the incorporation of baking powder in poultry preparation, as outlined in the article, demonstrates a nuanced understanding of both the chemical processes involved and the practical aspects of achieving desirable culinary outcomes. It's a testament to the expertise and dedication of those who continually explore and refine cooking techniques for the benefit of home cooks and culinary enthusiasts alike.
