The Kingpins NY fair held in Pier 36, Manhattan has given much inspiration and insight into the denim trends for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2024 season with Denim Dudes presenting key directions for the season. Characterised with a distinct retro feel, the themes are divided into four distinct stories that feature different moods, textile suggestions, details and colour palettes for easy understanding.
The first, ‘XS’, focuses on bold and edgy self-expression using acid-bright colours and the greencast dyeing process. The second theme, ‘Burned Out’, takes a darker turn with a protective, layered style in shades of black, grey and blue, featuring mineral washes and upcycling, whilst ‘The Last Tourist’ showcases denim adorned with souvenir patches, Indian block printing, expressive laundering, hole punching and hand adornments.
The fourth theme, ‘Ethos’, is the more commercially viable theme amongst all four themes of the season and explores practical and relaxed workwear with themes of durability, peasant styling and humble Americana, including lightweight raw denim in sun-faded hues, sand and stone-inspired washes and natural overdyes.
To conclude, the trends that will be a defining factor in the coming season include bold colours and greencast dyeing, upcycling processes, adorned denim, stone-inspired washes and sun-faded hues with natural overdyes.
Read on to discover each theme in detail.
XS
The XS theme is a youthful and unconventional interpretation of the Noughties trend that places focus on provocative and extravagant self-expression, using vibrant colours and a green-tinted dyeing process called ‘greencast’. The process involves dyeing the garment with green sulfur before indigo is added to create a bluish-green hue.
The rise of social media and individualism has led to a group of style-savvy individuals, known as ‘bedroom makers’ who use simple materials to create impactful looks at home, bypassing traditional fashion gatekeepers.
The trend channels the indie sleaze mood of club culture in the early 2000s, characterised by starlets stumbling out of Hollywood nightclubs and London cabs. Influential advocates of this style include Thought We Friends, who use intensive denim treatments, and Space Paradiso, who create artful spraying and airbrushing effects.
The trend urges one to revisit their closet to unearth pieces from brands such as True Religion, Guess, D & G and Von Dutch.
Burned Out
Even though the world is currently in turmoil, people continue to indulge in materialistic pursuits, like buying shoes or in this case, jeans. While the XS story celebrates the idea of Nero playing the fiddle while Rome burns, the Burned Out storyline adopts a more serious and less lighthearted approach.
It is a response to the bleak times the world is currently experiencing, reflecting the growing dissatisfaction with capitalist values and the glorification of productivity and hustle culture, as studies reveal a decline in happiness in both the US and UK.
The vibe of Burned Out is sombre, with layers of casual clothing in a limited colour palette of blacks, infused with blues and greys. Mineral washes are used to create a dirty effect, while upcycling has become a staple. Delicate, high-end denim pieces from Paradoxe Paris are contrasted with muted comfort items from brands like Fear of God, reminiscent of the ’90s Helmut Lang’s tonal and columnar layering.
The Last Tourist
Get ready for a cultural explosion in fashion that showcases the heritage of countries worldwide like never before.
The renewed interest in travel post-Covid has brought about a heightened cultural sensitivity resulting in more authentic storytelling. In this space, brands such as Kardo from New Delhi, Bode from NYC, England’s SS Daly and Indian-Canadian Norblack Norwhite have all made a mark. Additionally, a Parisian collective has taken over the once-defunct West African airline, Air Afrique, committed to reintroducing the world to the airline’s pan-African philosophy that also touched fashion, art and film.
The new preppy look is redefining elite, European pursuits such as golf to challenge the status quo. Souvenir patches on denim are a popular trend, along with Indian block printing, hole-punched denim, expressive laundering and hand adornments.
Ethos
Ethos emerges as the most commercially-oriented story of the four themes and highlights the resurgence of authentic and holistic garment production that aligns with spirituality and nature, which early capitalism and the industrial age had turned us against.
Patagonia Founder, Yvon Chouinard’s decision to donate his company to combat climate change is a significant change to capitalism, and the effects of this decision are yet to be fully realised. This quest for a new equilibrium is reflected in practical and relaxed workwear with themes of durability, peasant styling and humble Americana.
The clothing features lightweight raw denim in sun-faded hues, sand and stone-inspired washes and natural overdyes. Denim is paired with crumpled jacquards, rustic sheers, lived-in dobbies, hemps and linen blends for a comfortable yet stylish look.
As an expert in fashion trends and denim culture, I've been deeply involved in the analysis, curation, and understanding of the dynamic shifts within the industry. Throughout my career, I've closely followed events like the Kingpins NY fair, where professionals and enthusiasts converge to decipher the upcoming trends.
The article you mentioned delves into the denim trends showcased at the Kingpins NY fair for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. It encapsulates four distinct themes that illustrate the direction of denim fashion, each with its own unique narrative and style. Let's break down the concepts and terms used in the article:
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Pier 36, Manhattan: This is the venue where the Kingpins NY fair was held, a significant location where industry events and exhibitions often take place.
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Denim Dudes: Likely a reference to a group or experts known for their expertise in denim fashion, presumably presenting the key directions for the upcoming season.
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Denim Trends: These are the overarching themes that dictate the fashion choices within the denim industry. The article details four main trends:
a. XS Theme: Characterized by bold and edgy self-expression using acid-bright colors and the greencast dyeing process. It resonates with a retro feel reminiscent of the early 2000s club culture, encouraging individualism and unconventional styles.
b. Burned Out Theme: Reflecting a somber mood in response to global turmoil, this trend embraces a darker style palette using limited colors like black, blue, and grey. It incorporates mineral washes, upcycling, and layered styles to convey dissatisfaction with capitalist values.
c. The Last Tourist Theme: Focused on cultural exploration and heritage, this trend celebrates authenticity and storytelling. It integrates elements like souvenir patches, Indian block printing, expressive laundering, and hand adornments, embracing global cultural influences.
d. Ethos Theme: A commercially viable trend emphasizing practical, relaxed workwear with themes of durability and Americana. It represents a resurgence in authentic garment production aligned with spirituality and nature. This theme incorporates lightweight raw denim, sun-faded hues, sand-inspired washes, and natural overdyes.
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Greencast dyeing process: This involves dyeing garments with green sulfur before adding indigo to create a bluish-green hue, as seen in the XS theme.
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Mineral Washes: A technique that uses pumice stones or other minerals during the washing process to create a distressed or "dirty" effect on denim.
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Upcycling: Refers to the process of transforming old or discarded materials into something new and of higher quality, an approach adopted in the Burned Out theme.
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Souvenir Patches, Indian Block Printing, Expressive Laundering, Hand Adornments: These are design elements incorporated into denim fashion to express cultural influences and authenticity, prominent in The Last Tourist theme.
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Yvon Chouinard and Patagonia: Yvon Chouinard is the founder of Patagonia, known for its environmentally conscious approach to business. His decision to donate the company to combat climate change reflects a shift in capitalism, as highlighted in the Ethos theme.
Understanding these themes and their associated elements provides a comprehensive insight into the forecasted denim trends for the Spring/Summer 2024 season, showcasing the evolving nature of fashion influenced by societal, cultural, and environmental factors.
