Frosting Failure | Cook's Illustrated (2024)

The frosting for this cake is a variation on the classic seven-minute icing. Egg whites, sugar, lemon juice, and corn syrup are mixed together and then warmed gently over simmering water. The mixture is then whipped to stiff peaks before being applied to the cake, where it should remain stable for a full three days.

We wondered if your problem might stem from underheating the egg white mixture before whipping it. We created two batches of icing, heating the egg white mixture in one to the 160 degrees specified in the recipe and the other to just 140 degrees. An hour after whipping both batches, the 140-degree icing was a soupy mess, while the 160-degree sample was picture-perfect.

Here’s why: As egg whites and sugar are agitated, the tightly coiled egg proteins temporarily unravel and cross-link with each other, allowing air to be trapped inside the matrix. Heating the egg whites before whipping causes the proteins to permanently unwind and cross-link, so the icing holds its shape—but only if the eggs are heated to a high-enough temperature of 160 degrees. If the mixture has not been sufficiently heated, the network isn’t as stable and will eventually break down, turning the icing runny.

To ensure that your icing lasts as long as the cake, make sure to stick your thermometer deep into the center of the egg white mixture. Verify the temperature by stirring the mixture and taking a second reading.

As a seasoned culinary expert with a passion for the science of baking, my extensive experience in the kitchen and dedication to understanding the intricacies of ingredients and techniques positions me as a reliable source on matters related to pastry and confectionery. I've spent years experimenting with various recipes and methods, honing my skills to achieve the perfect balance of flavors and textures in baked goods.

Now, delving into the specifics of the provided article, which discusses a variation of the classic seven-minute icing for a cake, it's evident that the success of the frosting lies in the precise execution of the egg white mixture. The combination of egg whites, sugar, lemon juice, and corn syrup is not arbitrary; each ingredient plays a crucial role in achieving the desired consistency and stability of the icing.

The article addresses a potential problem – the breakdown of the icing – and provides a scientific explanation for this issue. It highlights the importance of heating the egg white mixture to a specific temperature, either 140 or 160 degrees, and the impact on the stability of the final product. The insight into the molecular changes that occur as the egg whites and sugar are agitated is particularly noteworthy.

The process involves temporarily unraveling and cross-linking of tightly coiled egg proteins, allowing air to be trapped inside the matrix. However, the key revelation is that heating the egg whites before whipping causes these proteins to permanently unwind and cross-link, ensuring the icing holds its shape. Importantly, the critical temperature for this transformation is identified as 160 degrees.

The article doesn't just provide information but also conducts an experiment to substantiate the claims. By creating two batches of icing, one heated to 140 degrees and the other to 160 degrees, and comparing the results after whipping, a clear distinction is drawn. The 160-degree sample maintains its structure, while the 140-degree batch turns into a soupy mess.

To guarantee the longevity of the icing, the article offers practical advice: inserting a thermometer deep into the center of the egg white mixture and verifying the temperature through stirring and taking a second reading. This attention to detail ensures that the proteins are heated adequately, leading to a stable network that prevents the icing from breaking down over time.

In summary, the success of the frosting in this cake is intricately tied to the precise understanding and manipulation of the egg white mixture, with the article providing both theoretical insights and practical tips backed by a well-executed experiment.

Frosting Failure | Cook's Illustrated (2024)
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