Becoming a model is still the dream for many, but what do you need to make it as a successful model today? In the past, the answer was a lot more straightforward—endless legs and a forceful attitude during the super-era of the 1990s, a waif's figure and a mysterious demeanour in the 2000s.
But in today's landscape, the lines between model, influencer and activist have become blurred, so what makes a model now?
In this age of social activism, fuelled by the reach of social media, models now have the means to express their passions and personalities, to stand up and fight for what they believe in. Just look at American model Cameron Russell's stand against sexual harassment with her #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse hashtag, and British model Adwoa Aboah's Gurls Talk website, which gives young girls a safe place to discuss issues such as mental health and sexuality.
Vogue talks to Hannah Jowitt, head of women's division at Models 1, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, and rising star Alexina Graham to find out what the new rules of modelling are, and how an aspiring model can make their dream a reality.
How to be a model now
Where do you start if you want to become a model?
Jowitt recommends having a look at the British Fashion Model Agents Association, which is officially affiliated with the British Fashion Council. “There you will find a list of registered agencies and lots of information on becoming a model,” she says.
Once you've identified some agencies you like the look and feel of (and think you have the right look for), the next step is to book a trip to London to go and see them. “All good agencies have ‘walk-ins' where you turn up and are seen by a booker,” says Jowitt. “You will be given time and advice and, potentially, offered an opportunity to work with that agency.”
If you do get an offer, congratulations! But don't just accept the first one you get. “All agencies have a different vibe, so do see a few rather than just accepting an offer from the first one you go to,” advises Jowitt.
Beware of any agency that wants to charge you a fee. “There are quite a lot of disreputable agencies out there that will charge you a joining fee and take money from you for an unnecessary portfolio, which simply isn't ever going to get you any work,” says Jowitt. “If you do visit a few different agencies and, unfortunately, they say no, then better to pursue another career than keep searching.”
What are agencies looking for in a model today?
“There are the obvious requirements of size and shape to becoming a model, but being long-limbed, lithe and good-looking is not all it takes,” says Jowitt, who cites other characteristics you'll need if you want to make it in the industry. “Models need to be hard-working, pleasant to have around, resilient, sociable and able to perform at the drop of a hat. They can't have an ‘off' day when booked on a shoot!”
What work opportunities are out there for models today?
The prevalence of the internet and the rise of social media have ushered in a new breed of models. “We have much shorter girls now than we have ever had before, and they earn a lot of money!” says Jowitt. “Historically, shorter girls have always been beauty girls, but with the rise of e-commerce they work a lot more. For some reason retailers tend to use a shorter model and, of course, with the rise of internet shopping there is a lot of work in that sector.”
