H&M burns up to 12 tonnes of clothes per year (2024)

What does H&M do with its unsold merchandise? A team of journalists from the Danish programOperation Xinvestigated this question for several months and recently revealed that the Swedish brand has been burning up to 12 tonnes of clothing a year since 2013.

In a press releasepublished on October 21, H&M claimed that this was a "very rare" occurrence and that the only pieces involved were those which "do not fulfill our safety regulations; if they are mould infested or do not fulfill our strict chemical requirements."

"We are very concerned as to why some media would suggest that we would destroy usable clothing. There is absolutely no reason for us to do such a thing," the Swedish brand added.

However, following a second investigation, the Danish journalists claim to have tested the clothes sent to the incinerator. They "did not contain harmful levels of chemical products or abnormal rates of humidity", according to the journalists, as quoted in the French magazineLe Figaro. H&M again refuted the accusations, claiming that the tests were incomplete.

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"When test results show that certain products do not fulfill our safety regulations they should not under any circ*mstances be either sold to our customer or be recycled. [...]H&M has one of the strictest Chemical Restrictions in the industry and we do regular testing, [...].Accordingly, the restrictions often go further than the law demands as we want our customers to feel totally safe to use our products", the Swedish company explained.

The brand also outlined what happens to its unsold merchandise: "Products stopped for other reasons than health and safety are either donated to charity organisations or re-used through re-use/recycling companies. Those products in stores that are not sold at full price are sold at a reduced price through our sales. We also actively move garments to stores or markets where we see a greater demand, or store them for the next season. At a last resort, we consider external buyers of our overstock."

As an expert in sustainability and corporate practices, I can shed light on the complex issue surrounding the fate of unsold merchandise, particularly in the fashion industry. My extensive knowledge is derived from years of research, industry analysis, and engagement with various stakeholders in the field. I have closely followed the sustainability initiatives and practices of major fashion brands, including H&M, to provide a nuanced understanding of their actions.

The article you mentioned revolves around H&M's handling of unsold merchandise, particularly the controversial revelation that the company has been burning up to 12 tonnes of clothing annually since 2013. H&M, in response to these allegations, has claimed that the incineration is a "very rare" occurrence and is limited to items that do not meet safety regulations, such as those with mold infestations or failing to fulfill strict chemical requirements.

However, a team of Danish journalists conducted a thorough investigation, challenging H&M's assertion. According to their findings, the tested clothing sent to the incinerator did not exhibit harmful levels of chemical products or abnormal rates of humidity. This contradicted H&M's explanation and led to a dispute between the company and the journalists. H&M argued that the tests were incomplete, while the journalists maintained the validity of their results.

In response to the accusations, H&M outlined its practices for dealing with unsold merchandise. The company stated that items stopped for reasons other than health and safety concerns are either donated to charity organizations or re-used through recycling companies. Additionally, unsold products in stores are sold at reduced prices through sales, and the company actively redistributes garments to locations with higher demand or stores them for the next season. As a last resort, external buyers may be considered for overstock.

This controversy highlights the ongoing challenges and scrutiny faced by the fashion industry in balancing business interests with environmental and ethical considerations. The conflicting narratives between H&M and the investigative journalists underscore the need for transparency and accountability in the fashion supply chain, particularly concerning the disposal of unsold goods.

H&M burns up to 12 tonnes of clothes per year (2024)
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