Words: Solene Rauturier
Category: Luxury
Published: 16 Feb 2022
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It may have revolutionised womenswear, but this century old brand will risk being left behind if it doesn’t step up for people, the planet, and animals. Let’s ask: how ethical is Chanel? This article is based on theChanel rating published in January 2022.
Is Chanel an ethical or sustainable brand?
Fashion changes, but style endures.
These are the wise words of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who founded the eponymous brand in the 1920s. Chanel is known for revolutionising women’s fashion by ditching the restrictive corsets and replacing them with more flattering, functional, and minimalistic silhouettes. A lesser known fact is that Chanel herself was anti-Semitic and worked as a secret Nazi agent during WW2. Not exactly one to idolise.
The late Karl Lagerfeld revived the luxury house in the 1980s, introducing the concept of the griffe (a proof of uniqueness and authenticity, hidden inside the dress) and making the brand one of the last 20th-century fashion houses still talked about today.
Style endures, but it looks like Chanel has had trouble adapting to the modern fashion industry and its efforts to become more ethical and sustainable. In 2018, and for the first time ever, the brand published a report on its environmental efforts and banned the use of exotic skins. In 2019, Chanel also took a minority stake in a green chemistry start up, showing that it’s finally starting to think about a broader sustainability strategy—but it still may not be doing enough.
With this in mind, what is Chanel’s impact on people, the planet, and animals? Is Chanel ethical or sustainable?
Environmental impact
Chanel’s environment rating is “Not Good Enough”. The brand has set an absolute target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its operations by 50% by 2030. But it doesn’t use eco-friendly materials and we found no evidence it has taken any meaningful action to reduce or eliminate hazardous chemicals or that it implements water reduction initiatives. We are in the middle of a climate emergency, and well-established brands need to clue in or they will be left behind.
Labour conditions
Chanel’s labour rating is also “Not Good Enough”. It received a score of only 11-20% in the Fashion Transparency Index. Although the brand audits some of its supply chain, it doesn’t state what percentage. There is also no evidence it investigates and reports on safety incidents, that it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain, or that it lists names or addresses for any of its suppliers. We know the impact of fashion on garment workers, and it is imperative that they are afforded the rights and payment they deserve.
Animal welfare
Like many luxury brands, Chanel has stopped using fur, exotic animal skin, and angora. But it still uses leather and wool, as well as exotic animal hair and silk, which is why Chanel’s animal rating is “Not Good Enough”. Not only that, but there is no evidence it has a policy to minimise the suffering of animals, nor does it appear to trace animal products to the first stage of production. With so many alternatives, the use of these harmful materials is entirely unnecessary.
Overall rating: Not Good Enough
We gave Chanel an overall rating of “Not Good Enough”. The brand is not taking adequate steps to reduce textile waste in its supply chain, eliminate hazardous chemicals, or reduce its water consumption. What’s more, it needs to improve working conditions by investigating and reporting on safety incidents, but more importantly, ensuring workers in its supply chain are paid a living wage, and with the material innovations in the fashion industry today, there is simply no excuse for using cruel animal-based fabrics anymore. The brand has a long way to go if it intends to endure for the years to come.
See the rating.
Note that Good On You ratings consider hundreds of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.
If you’re looking for the unique and timeless Chanel style while having a better impact on people, the planet, and animals—fear not. We found ethical alternatives to Chanel to inspire you.
Good swaps
Ethical and sustainable alternatives to Chanel
Stella McCartney
Rated: Good
A member of the Ethical Trading Initiative and Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Stella McCartney has set some excellent environmental standards across the luxury fashion industry. Stella uses some lower-impact materials, including recycled polyester and organic cotton, and has a strategy in place to reduce waste across its entire supply chain. It has also adopted the ETI Code of Conduct that includes a living wage definition.
Find most items in sizes 34-52.
See the rating.
Shop Stella McCartney @ LVRSustainable.
Wires
Rated: Good
Wires is a London based eyewear brand that creates beautiful styles from a single piece of metal wire and 3D printed parts.
See the rating.
ZEROBARRACENTO
Rated: Good
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ZEROBARRACENTO – Cape
This recycled wool cape is perfect for a winter day. It features a smooth, warming fabric and a flowing cut.Exclusive 30% off the Cape with code -30CAPE0/100XGOOD(Ends: 13 APR)
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ZEROBARRACENTO is an Italian brand that creates zero-waste clothes that celebrate the personality of those who wear it.
You can find most pieces in sizes S-L.
See the rating.
Maggie Marilyn
Rated: Good
Need-to-know designer Maggie Marilyn’s clothes are defined by her strong sense of luxury and fresh point of view. Inspired to create collections that are more sustainable as well as beautiful, the New Zealand-based label utilises organic cottons and responsibly-produced silks to craft effortlessly glamorous designs.
Sizes available are XS-L.
See the rating.
Shop Maggie Marilyn @ Farfetch.
Bianca Spender
Rated: Good
Bianca Spender is Australian fashion royalty, who has taken sustainability into the heart of her label. From smart workwear to statement gowns, this is a label that employs the highest standards of design and quality. Bianca Spender uses deadstock fabric and natural fibres, making all her garments in Ethical Clothing Australia-accredited factories. Find the range in S-L.
See the rating.
Vintage Chanel
Like Coco, we feel like style is timeless, so next time you’re in your favourite second hand shop, why not have a look for vintage Chanel items? You never know what amazing treasures you might find. You can also find authenticated pre-loved Chanel over on Vestiaire Collective.
When in doubt, rent it out
Nowadays, many websites allow you to rent dresses, bags, and accessories for an event, so think about this option next time you want to dazzle the crowd with a Chanel bag.
Editor's note
Feature image via Pixabay, additional images via the brands mentioned. Good On You publishes the world's most comprehensive ratings of fashion brands’ impact on people, the planet, and animals. Use the directory to search thousands of rated brands.
