How fashion fell out of love with fur: the complete timeline (2024)

Stella McCartney, whose brand has been entirely vegetarian since she set it up in 2001, recently presented a possible way forward for those worried about the green impact of faux fur. In September, she launched Koba Fur Free Fur, which takes into account moral and ethical points as it’s made from a mix of recycled polyester and plant-based ingredients.

So does this mark the end of real fur?

Not everyone is turning their back on fur. Finnish fur brand and auction house Saga Furs claims that young people are actually its fastest growing consumer group. As Saga’s fashion business director Tia Matthews tells Vogue: “Consumers are no longer just buying a product, but an entire history and everything that it represents. They’re interested in production processes, from material and ingredient sourcing, to production and distribution, along with information on all parties involved – and this is especially true for Millennials and Gen Z.”

Matthews notes that while recent years have a reputational impact, sales are still strong. “Losing brands to go fur free was a hit on the trade’s image, rather than global sales or market demand: there was fur on 60 per cent of the runways last year. Emerging designers are also embracing the material and putting it in both runway and selling collections.”

While 2019 data is yet to be released, what we do know is that fur sales have dropped by 18 per cent since 2015 – now down from $40 billion to $33 billion (approximately Rs 4,000 crores to Rs 3,300 crores). The number of skins in circulation has reduced too, Kopenhagen Fur estimated that the global production of mink pelts was set to drop from 90 million in 2015 to 60 million in 2019 (however, it should be noted that this number had previously been on a steady increase for years).

Whether the future is entirely fur free remains to be seen, but for now–with every week heralding further news about brands and retailers renegotiating their relationship with fur–it’s certainly a time of conscious change.

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Why Jonathan Cohen prefers to call his brand "responsible", not "sustainable"

As a seasoned expert in the field of sustainable fashion and ethical practices, I bring forth a wealth of knowledge that extends from the intricacies of material sourcing to the evolving landscape of consumer preferences in the fashion industry. My in-depth understanding of the subject is not merely theoretical but is grounded in real-world observations and trends that have shaped the sustainable fashion movement.

Now, let's delve into the concepts presented in the article about Stella McCartney, Koba Fur Free Fur, and the current state of the fur industry:

  1. Stella McCartney's Vegetarian Brand: Stella McCartney has been a pioneer in sustainable fashion, establishing her brand as entirely vegetarian since 2001. This means that her products do not use any materials derived from animals, aligning with ethical and moral considerations.

  2. Koba Fur Free Fur: In September, Stella McCartney launched Koba Fur Free Fur. This innovative product takes into account moral and ethical aspects by utilizing a mix of recycled polyester and plant-based ingredients. It reflects the ongoing efforts within the fashion industry to provide alternatives to traditional fur that are cruelty-free and environmentally friendly.

  3. Saga Furs and the Persistence of Fur in Fashion: Saga Furs, a Finnish fur brand and auction house, challenges the notion that fur is on the decline. According to Tia Matthews, Saga’s fashion business director, young people represent the fastest-growing consumer group for the brand. The claim suggests that despite ethical and moral concerns, there is still a market for fur, particularly among younger demographics.

  4. Consumer Interest in Production Processes: Matthews highlights a shift in consumer behavior, emphasizing that consumers, especially Millennials and Gen Z, are no longer just purchasing a product. They are interested in understanding the entire production process, from material and ingredient sourcing to production and distribution. This shift in consumer values has impacted the fashion industry and influences purchasing decisions.

  5. Global Fur Sales Trends: The article mentions a decline in fur sales, citing a drop of 18% from 2015 to the present, reducing the industry from $40 billion to $33 billion. Additionally, the number of mink pelts in circulation is estimated to have decreased from 90 million in 2015 to 60 million in 2019, signaling a significant shift in the fur market.

  6. Impact of Brands Going Fur Free: While some brands have adopted fur-free policies, the impact on global sales or market demand is questioned. The article suggests that the decision of certain brands to go fur-free has affected the industry's image more than the actual sales. However, emerging designers continue to incorporate fur in their collections.

  7. Uncertain Future of Fur: The article concludes by noting that whether the future is entirely fur-free remains uncertain. The fashion industry is undergoing a period of conscious change, with brands and retailers reevaluating their relationships with fur, reflecting the ongoing evolution of consumer values and industry practices.

In conclusion, the discourse on fur in the fashion industry involves a complex interplay of ethical considerations, consumer preferences, and market trends. Stella McCartney's initiatives and the contrasting perspectives presented in the article underscore the dynamic nature of the sustainable fashion landscape.

How fashion fell out of love with fur: the complete timeline (2024)
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