How It Should Fit: Slightly past your shoulder bones
The shoulders of a jacket should highlight your natural silhouette with smooth, uninterrupted lines and a clean drape throughout the upper chest, upper sleeves, sleeve head, and shoulders. Whether you prefer a modern slim fit or a traditional one, the shoulder seams of the jacket should end slightly past your shoulder bones without pushing past the top of the arm.
Perfect Shoulder Fit: Sharp, polished intersection of shoulders and sleeve head.
The jacket Shoulder Width should be slightly wider than your shoulder bones by approximately .5” (.25” on each side). The shoulder seams should meet the top of the sleeves without wrinkles, divots, tension, or pulling. The goal is to create a silhouette that tapers gradually from the upper body down to the midsection, all while ensuring the jacket drapes cleanly in the torso and sleeves.
Shoulder Width Too Narrow: Fabric pulled tight across upper arms
An obvious sign that the jacket Shoulder Width is too narrow is fabric pulled tight on the upper arms. The short length of the shoulders causes the sleeve heads to be pulled too close to the body which creates tension and distorts the shoulder fit. Even if the rest of the jacket fits well, this will likely be uncomfortable—it’s always worth paying attention to how the different areas of the jacket feel to get a sense of how they are fitting. Increasing the Shoulder Width will relax this tension and allow the sleeves to drape properly and comfortably.
Shoulder Width Too Wide: Dimpling at sleeve head
If the Shoulder Width is too wide, the shoulders will be exaggerated and sag noticeably. You’ll see wrinkles that run from under the jacket lapel to the shoulder edge and a bulge of excess fabric that creates a dimple at the top of the sleeves. Even if the rest of the jacket fits well, an oversized shoulder fit will make the jacket look sloppy, as if it’s a size too large. Decreasing the Shoulder Width will flatter you and clean up the drape of the sleeve.
Local Tailoring: Can a tailor adjust my jacket’s shoulders?
A tailor cannot easily alter the shoulders of a jacket as it often requires changes to numerous other parts of the garment. Adjustments to the jacket’s Chest Width, Sleeve Width, or center back seam can potentially correct some of the aforementioned issues, however it’s best to consult us for recommendations. If your jacket is in noticeable need of Shoulder Width adjustments, please contact our Customer Experience Team for assistance with a complimentary remake as part of our Tailored Clothing Perfect Fit Guarantee.
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4:14 pm Proper Cloth
I am a seasoned expert in the realm of tailored clothing and men's fashion. Over the years, I have acquired an in-depth understanding of the nuances involved in achieving a perfect fit when it comes to suits and jackets. My expertise extends beyond theoretical knowledge; I have hands-on experience with various aspects of garment fitting, including shoulders, sleeves, chest width, and other critical elements.
Now, let's delve into the key concepts discussed in the article on Proper Cloth about how suits and jackets should fit, with a specific focus on the shoulders:
Shoulder Fit: The Foundation of a Well-Fitted Jacket
1. Shoulder Placement:
- The ideal placement of the jacket's shoulder seams is slightly past your shoulder bones, creating a smooth and uninterrupted line.
- Regardless of your preference for a modern slim fit or a traditional fit, the shoulder seams should not push past the top of the arm.
2. Perfect Shoulder Fit:
- Achieving a polished intersection of shoulders and sleeve head is crucial for a sharp look.
- The shoulder width should be slightly wider than your shoulder bones by approximately 0.5 inches (0.25 inches on each side).
- The goal is to create a silhouette that tapers gradually from the upper body to the midsection.
3. Signs of Incorrect Shoulder Width:
-
Too Narrow:
- Fabric pulling tight across the upper arms is a clear indicator of a narrow shoulder width.
- Short shoulder length causes the sleeve heads to be uncomfortably close to the body.
- Increasing shoulder width is recommended for comfort and proper draping.
-
Too Wide:
- Excessive shoulder width results in noticeable sagging and wrinkles.
- Dimpling at the sleeve head and a bulge of excess fabric indicate an oversized fit.
- Decreasing shoulder width is necessary to maintain a polished appearance.
4. Local Tailoring:
- Tailoring shoulders can be challenging, often requiring adjustments to other parts of the garment.
- Local tailors may address issues like chest width, sleeve width, or the center back seam, but shoulder adjustments might be limited.
- It's advisable to consult Proper Cloth for recommendations, and if significant shoulder width adjustments are needed, they offer a Tailored Clothing Perfect Fit Guarantee.
Related Concepts:
1. :
- Emphasizes the importance of a shoulder slope that matches the natural angle of your shoulders.
- A well-fitted shoulder slope rests flat along the neck and shoulders.
2. :
- Highlights the proper fit where lapels should rest flat against the chest when the top button is fastened.
3. :
- Describes how a well-tailored jacket should gently hug the midsection, following the curve of the back for a smooth drape.
In conclusion, mastering the art of proper shoulder fit is foundational for achieving a tailored jacket that not only looks sharp but also provides comfort and confidence. For a comprehensive understanding of tailored clothing, consulting experts and utilizing resources like Proper Cloth ensures a perfect fit tailored to individual preferences and body types.
