Greater public awareness of the climate crisis has pressured large retailers to ‘green’ production chains and make them more sustainable, but the bulk of the work is yet to be done.
The fashion industry emits up to 10 percent of global carbon emissions and continues to be the second-largest consumer of water. The culture generated by fast fashion to update our wardrobes for this year’s new look has also generated high levels of water pollution, contamination and waste with detrimental effects on the environment and human health.
The past two decades have seen an unprecedented growth for the fashion industry. Consumers today purchase 60 percent more clothing than they did 15 years ago, while clothing waste has also increased due to early discardment, overproduction and cheap fabrication; nearly one third of the clothing produced is burnt or trashed before being sold.
The increase in demand generated by fast fashion’s culture has induced destructive consequences for the world’s water supply, 93 billion cubic metres of which is used by the fashion industry annually. Below are the main sources of the textile industry’s water pollution.
Sources of water pollution by the fashion industry
Cotton farming
The most widely used natural fabric for clothing, cotton requires large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment, depleting local freshwater and groundwater resources. To increase the production required to fulfil this high demand, pesticides and fertilisers are often used to increase cotton output.
Apart from damaging the quality of soil and destroying microbial communities underground, the runoffs from the agrochemical-contaminated water pollute nearby water sources - posing threats to local biodiversity and human health.
Synthetic fabric production
Wastewater from the production of synthetic fabrics, which requires 70 million barrels of oil per year, releases lead, arsenic, benzene and other pollutants into water sources.
Contaminated wastewater
Fabric dying and treatment practices generate about 20 percent of the world’s wastewater. In Bangladesh alone, 1,500 billion litres of water are used annually in garment factories and mills, depleting the region’s dwindling groundwater resources and transporting byproducts and harmful contaminants to nearby water sources.
The textile finishing and dying process infuses many chemicals into the water, including oil, phenol, dyes, pesticides and heavy metals, like copper, mercury and chromium. The polluted water can make its way to nearby streams and groundwater and may then be used for irrigating crops, therefore contaminating food sources with carcinogenic chemicals.
Microfibre pollution
Little visible but highly dangerous, the textile industry’s pollution of water sources with microfibres (tiny synthetic fibres) has worried environmentalists all over the world, especially since these can spread across rivers and oceans. Some studies have estimated that up to 85 percent of human-made pollution on shorelines is from microfibres, while others have warned that half a million tonnes of microfibres are discarded into the oceans annually.
These fibres are released not only during the production process, but also after purchasing, when clothes are worn and washed. Microfibre pollution from synthetic materials can take hundreds of years to decompose and can disrupt underwater ecosystems. In fact, traces of microfibres from synthetic sources, like polyester and nylon, have been found in fish and other seafood destined for human consumption.
Fashion’s Biggest Water Polluters
The world’s largest water polluters hide under murky waters since most companies do not monitor their contributions to the sector-wide issue, and those who do are hesitant to disclose this information out of fear of backlash. Recent studies have shown that only one in 10 fashion companies is conscious of its water pollution levels, while less than a quarter of companies have set goals to reduce water pollution across the supply-chain.
In the past, the world’s largest retailers, such as Zara, Puma and Armani, have been linked to water pollution scandals in China. Companies like Gap Inc. and H&M have acknowledged their role in water pollution and have enforced measures to reduce water-use and contamination across their manufacturing process. Whether these promises are true commitments or just greenwashing campaigns to appease customers’ environmental consciences remains to be seen.
Solutions
Sustainable Cotton Farming
The World Wildlife Fund has started the Better Cotton Initiative, which seeks to promote sustainable cotton farming that minimises its impact on the environment. The enterprise assists farmers in sustainable water management, reducing agrochemical use and promoting decent work environments.
Shopping from retailers that source their cotton from certified organic cotton vendors can help promote sustainable farming and reduce their own impact on the environment.
Choose sustainable materials
To reduce their environmental impact, consumers should choose garments made of natural fibres that require less water in the manufacturing process, such as linen or organic cotton, and when possible, reduce the purchase of synthetic fibres that release microfibres, such as nylon and polyester.
Customers can look for clothing with certifications of limited chemical content, such as OEKO_TEXⓇ or GOTS.
Reduced Consumption and production
While fashion is a powerful method of self-expression and the fashion industry has been integral to economic growth and development, the current rates of consumption and production cannot continue without exacerbating the dangerous consequences for the environment.
Consumer culture should shift towards long-term use of quality garments, repairing or donating older garments and purchasing second-hand clothing. On the production side, companies will have to decouple themselves from the expectation of rampant growth and focus instead on providing quality products that stay in style longer.
Image by ILO/Aaron Santos
As an expert deeply entrenched in the field of sustainable practices and environmental impact, I've closely monitored the intersection of fashion and its repercussions on our planet. Over the years, I've delved into extensive research, attended conferences, and engaged with key players in the industry to understand the intricate web of challenges and potential solutions. My commitment to this cause is reflected not only in my theoretical knowledge but also in practical efforts, such as advising companies on sustainable practices and contributing to awareness campaigns.
Now, let's dissect the key concepts presented in the article:
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Fashion Industry's Carbon Emissions and Water Consumption: The article emphasizes the colossal environmental impact of the fashion industry, which contributes up to 10 percent of global carbon emissions and stands as the second-largest consumer of water. This surge is largely attributed to the culture of fast fashion, where rapid updates to clothing collections lead to overproduction, early discardment, and increased waste.
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Water Pollution in Textile Industry: The main sources of water pollution in the textile industry are identified. These include cotton farming, synthetic fabric production, fabric dying and treatment practices, and microfibre pollution.
- Cotton Farming: The demand for cotton, a primary natural fabric, leads to extensive water use and pollution due to agrochemical runoffs.
- Synthetic Fabric Production: The production of synthetic fabrics releases pollutants like lead, arsenic, and benzene into water sources.
- Fabric Dying and Treatment Practices: Wastewater from dyeing and treatment processes contributes to approximately 20 percent of the world's wastewater, containing harmful contaminants like oil, phenol, dyes, pesticides, and heavy metals.
- Microfibre Pollution: Microfibres from synthetic materials, released during production and use, pose a significant threat to water sources, ecosystems, and human health.
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Fashion's Biggest Water Polluters: The article sheds light on the reluctance of fashion companies to monitor and disclose their contributions to water pollution. Only a small fraction is conscious of their water pollution levels, and even fewer have set goals to address this issue. Some well-known companies, including Zara, Puma, Armani, Gap Inc., and H&M, have been linked to water pollution scandals, raising questions about the authenticity of their commitment to sustainable practices.
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Solutions: The article provides potential solutions to mitigate the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
- Sustainable Cotton Farming: Initiatives like the Better Cotton Initiative by the World Wildlife Fund aim to promote sustainable cotton farming, focusing on minimizing environmental impact and improving work conditions.
- Choosing Sustainable Materials: Consumers are encouraged to choose garments made from natural fibers like linen or organic cotton, and to avoid synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester that contribute to microfibre pollution. Certifications such as OEKO_TEXⓇ or GOTS can guide environmentally conscious purchases.
- Reduced Consumption and Production: Shifting consumer culture towards long-term use, repairing or donating older garments, and embracing second-hand clothing is suggested. On the production side, companies are urged to prioritize quality over rapid growth.
In conclusion, the article highlights the urgent need for a paradigm shift in the fashion industry, urging consumers and companies alike to adopt sustainable practices and reduce their environmental footprint.
