Louis Vuitton has been one of the most, if not the most, counterfeited luxury brands to date. Following a report that 90% of Louis Vuitton handbags sold on eBay were fake, theFrench Court charged the company to pay 61 million to the luxury group LVMH in 2008. However, state of art authentication technology has been a game-changer for luxury resellers and buyers - including eBay!
At Sign of the Times, we've been experts in identifying fake handbags for over four decades. Yes, that's including the years before authentication technology was yet to emerge. It is part of our mission to help prevent keen collectors of vintageandcurrentseason handbags on the secondhand marketplacefrom purchasing counterfeits. If ever in doubt about the authenticity of your preloved purchase, or simply want to know how to quickly spot a fake: Here are five ways toauthenticate your preloved Louis Vuitton handbag.
Unique stamps and Date Codes
Louis Vuitton handbags don’t come with an authentication card. Instead, the manufacturers stitch a unique stamp and date code on the bag's interior lining. This form of identification has been used since the early 1980's. Although, do note that a number of models manufactured at the time do not have date codes.
You’ll find the unique stamp, with the designer labels name and the manufacturing location stitched to the inside pocket. The first tell-tale sign of authenticityis the colour of the stitching, which should always be a mustard-yellow (emphasis on mustard). Perfectly centred on a square of leather, Louis Vuitton has notoriously embossed its name with the same font for years. Observe the letter ‘O’, which should appear as a perfect circle as opposed to an oval-like ‘0’. The ‘L’ in Louis should have a distinctly longer vertical leg and the ‘TT’ in Vuitton should be close to touching.
Real vs. Fake Stamp:
The six-digit date code can be used to identify where and when a Louis Vuitton handbag was manufactured. It tends to be printed on a leather tab, and can be found in the following locations:
- Embossed into the leather tab and stitched into the lining of the bag
- Stitched into a pocket. Open out your pockets to find the leather tab.
- (Without a leather tab) Embossed directly onto the interior lining of the bag, often alongside a seam.
- The exterior leather strap, near a brass hinge.
- Louis Vuitton wallets are stamped with a date code on the inner edge of the notes compartment.
- Louis Vuitton agendas are stamped under the flap nearest to the seam
The location disclosed on the unique stamp can be used to decipher the date code. Nowadays, Louis Vuitton handbags are manufactured in France, Germany, The USA, Italy, Switzerland and Spain. Every country holds its own unique code, accounting for the first two letters of the handbag's six-character date code.If the country specified by the date does not match the 'made in' stamping; the handbag is fake.
Louis Vuitton’s serial codes and factories are as follows:
France A0, A1, A2, AA, AAS (Special Order), AH, AN, AR, AS, BA, BE, BJ, BU, DR, DU, CO, CT, ET, FL, LM (2019 onwards), LA (2019 onwards) LW, MB, MI, NO, RA, RI, SA, SD, SF, SL, SN, SP, SR, TJ, TH, TR, TS, TY, VI, VX
Germany LP
Italy BC, BO, CE, FO, MA, PL, RC, RE, SA, TB, TD, NZ
Spain BC (2015 onwards), CA, JJ, LO, LB, LM, LW, GI, UB
Switzerland DI, FA
USA FC, FH, LA, OS, SD, TX, FL
MISC DK – Relined and replaced items
The remaining four digits on vintage handbags, manufactured prior to 2007, indicate the month and year of production. Handbags manufactured from 2007 to 2020 should bear an updated digit code, signifying the number of the week in the year, followed by the year.
Pictured below are authentic date codes, in the common locations they are found.
As of 2021, current season Louis Vuitton handbags do NOT feature a date code. In an effort to tackle the replica market with technology, the luxury brand replaced date codes with a microchip that can only be scanned and read by Louis Vuitton employees. If ever in doubt about the authenticity of a handbag bought off the secondhand market, don’t bother asking Louis Vuitton’s sales associates to authenticate your preloved purchase. They won’t do it. We advise you to seek the assistance of a trusted reseller who can offer their designer handbag authentication service to you.
Looking for a designer handbag authentication service in London? At Sign of the Time’s, you can bring your preloved handbag to our London store to be authenticated. Find out more about our authentication service and how to get in touch.
Logo and Monogram
Classic Monogram
The classic monogram on Louis Vuitton handbags is comprised of interlocking LV letters, four-petal fleur-de-lys’, fleur-de-lys’ inside a square and rounded four-petal flowers inside a circle. No other geometric shapes should be present and the ‘V’ should be positioned just above the ‘L’ where the letters intersect. Can you spot why the the white monogram Murakami Speedy pictured below is fake?
The red hearts. Louis Vuitton's monogram has been reinterpreted in countless creative ways, but the addition of irregularities to the standard pattern isn't one.
Payclose attention to the continuity of the monogram's pattern. Where the pattern starts with a fleur-de-lys, it should finish with the fleur-de-lys; where the pattern starts from a semi-circle, it should finish with a semi-circle. Although partial secondary symbols are acceptable, given they remain consistent, any stitch line that cuts the 'LV' symbol in half is an automatic red flag. The 'LV' logo should always be completely intact.
Aspictured to the right below, the symmetry of the monogram throughout the bag is indicative of authenticity. To determine symmetry, observe the pattern in relation to other non-monogram handbag properties.
Two of the most iconic Louis Vuittonhandbags, the Keepall duffle bag and Speedy, arecrafted with a singular pieceof leather. Thus, the classic monogram should appear up-side down on authentic models, as pictured above.
Damier Ebene / Damier Azur
On Damier Ebene or Azur canvas models, the Louis Vuitton logo printed inside a multiple squares should always follow along the same line on either side of the bag.
Explore our second-hand designer handbags in the iconic Louis Vuitton monogram canvas, featuring cross-body, shoulder, tote, top-handle, travel and clutch bags. From the classic brown monogram to the Damier Ebene canvas; invest in preloved and authenticated Louis Vuitton at incredible prices with our curated collection of investment-worthy handbags.
Hardware
Every component of hardware, albeit size, should be engraved with the Louis Vuitton logo. Authentic's with stamped hardware should have a clear impression and be centred in the middle. In the case of round rivets, the logo should circle around perfectly.
Another tell-tale sign is the quality and heaviness of the hardware. Where all Louis Vuitton handbags and accessoriesaremade from metal brass and painted in gold,fake hardware is noticeably lighter.
Inspect the shape of the hardware connecting items together, such as handles and zippers. Authentic Louis Vuitton bags possess a D-ring, whilst the ring hooks and connecting pieces on fakes tend to be more circular in shape. The edges of any angular hardware should always be smooth, and zippers should slide effortlessly. Abrupt open and closure signifies a fake bag.
Pictured below is an authentic D-ring.
Pictured below is an authentic Louis Vuitton Alma. Notice how the angular hardware maintains smooth edges.
Stitching
Louis Vuitton is meticulous about stitching, making it a crucial indicator of authenticity. The stitch line should always remain of equal distance from the edge of the handbag and every single stitch should be consistent in size.
Leather
Only the best quality of leather is used for Louis Vuitton handbags. In the case of the classic monogram and Damier Ebene models, Louis Vuitton uses anoxidizing natural cowhide leather that turns into a dark honey colour with time. This is important to note when purchasing preloved and vintage Louis Vuitton handbags that have already been used, as the colour of the leather should show signs of aging. This includes a darkening of the tanned beige handles on preloved bags.
A final note
Although these design elementscan help determinewhether your preloved Louis Vuitton handbag was crafted with the utmost expertise, the most reliable confirmation is to buy preloved designer handbags from trusted resellers, or to inquire with a professional when in doubt. Credible measures to authenticate counterfeit goods should not rely solely on inspection by the naked eye. At Sign of the Times, we use Entrupy: Machine learning AI algorithms used on microscopic images of counterfeit goods to distinguish between counterfeit and genuine secondhand designer handbags. The innovative technology was introduced in 2012 and has a 99.1% accuracy rate, ensuring your secondhand shopping experience is counterfeit-free. There has never been a better time to buy and sell secondhand luxury! Make sure you're making the most of the new and improved ways to guarantee authenticity.
Looking to sell your preloved designer handbags with a trusted reseller in London? Or looking to authenticate your preloved purchase with a professional in London? With over 45 years if experience in authenticating and reselling luxury goods, our authentication service is here to help. Contact us to schedule an appointment, or if you're shopping in Chelsea, we invite you to drop by with your item requiring authentication.
For more on Louis Vuitton, read our blog on The Complete History of Louis Vuittonor How to sell a Louis Vuitton handbag.
I am a seasoned expert in the field of luxury handbags, particularly in the authentication of Louis Vuitton products. With over four decades of experience at Sign of the Times, our team has been at the forefront of identifying counterfeit handbags, even before the advent of state-of-the-art authentication technology. Our commitment to preventing collectors from purchasing fake items on the secondhand market has been unwavering.
Now, let's delve into the key concepts mentioned in the article:
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Authentication Technology and Legal Issues:
- Louis Vuitton faced significant challenges due to counterfeiting, with a notable incident in 2008 when the French Court charged the company 61 million for counterfeit handbags sold on eBay.
- The article highlights the impact of state-of-the-art authentication technology, revolutionizing the landscape for luxury resellers and buyers, including platforms like eBay.
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Identification Methods:
- Louis Vuitton handbags lack authentication cards but feature unique stamps and date codes stitched into the interior lining since the early 1980s.
- Authentication involves checking the color of stitching (mustard-yellow), the embossed font consistency, and specific characteristics like the circular 'O' and elongated 'L' in the brand name.
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Date Codes and Manufacturing Locations:
- The six-digit date code on Louis Vuitton handbags indicates where and when it was manufactured. Each country has its unique code, with examples provided for France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, and the USA.
- Changes in the date code format for vintage and post-2007 handbags are explained.
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Logo and Monogram Authentication:
- The classic monogram consists of interlocking LV letters, fleur-de-lys, and other elements. Symmetry and continuity of the pattern are crucial indicators of authenticity.
- Damier Ebene and Damier Azur canvas models have specific logo patterns that should align consistently.
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Hardware Authenticity:
- Authentic Louis Vuitton hardware is made of metal brass and painted in gold, with engraved logos.
- The weight and shape of hardware, such as D-rings, provide clues to authenticity.
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Stitching and Leather Quality:
- Meticulous stitching with consistent distance from the edge is a hallmark of authentic Louis Vuitton.
- Only high-quality leather, such as oxidizing natural cowhide, is used, and aging signs like darkening of handles are expected.
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Evolution of Authentication Measures:
- Louis Vuitton's move to replace date codes with a microchip in 2021 for current season handbags is explained.
- The importance of seeking assistance from trusted resellers with advanced authentication technologies like Entrupy is emphasized.
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Conclusion and Recommendations:
- The article concludes by advising buyers to rely on trusted resellers and professional authentication services, highlighting the use of machine learning AI algorithms for microscopic inspection of goods.
As a part of Sign of the Times, we remain committed to ensuring a counterfeit-free secondhand shopping experience through our expertise and innovative authentication technologies.
