If you’ve got a smart suit, you should know how to button it properly.
While there aren’t many hard rules a man should stick to when it comes to wearing a suit, there is a right way to button your suit jacket or button your blazer that helps to set you apart from those who know how to wear a suit and those who don’t. It comes down to the Sometimes, Never, Always rule.
How to button your suit jacket:
How to button single breasted jackets:
When wearing suits and jackets that are single breasted (this just means it has one column of buttons in the centre of your jacket), the Sometimes, Always, Never rule can apply to the way you button your suit.
Picture a three-button suit jacket, the top button is considered your‘sometimes’button, that you have a personal choice whether you do up or not. Your next button, sitting in the middle, is your‘always’button. This is the button you should always wear done up when standing or walking. The last button at the bottom of your jacket is your‘never’ button. The one button you never need to do up, regardless of if you’re sitting or standing.
How to button a two button jacket:
When your suit jacket is single breasted and has two buttons, you can consider the top button to be your‘always’button, the button you always do up when standing or walking. The next button will then be your‘never’button, regardless of it you’re standing or walking, you don’t need this done up.
How to button a single button jacket:
If you have a single button suit or jacket, you should wear it fastened when standing or walking and leave it open when sitting so you don’t pull the fabric. A bonus of wearing your jacket unbuttoned when sitting is that you’ll be more comfortable and look like a gentleman who knows his style.
As a menswear enthusiast with a deep understanding of suit etiquette and sartorial finesse, I've been entrenched in the realm of men's fashion and suiting for several years. My expertise in this area stems from both personal experience and a keen interest in the nuances of dressing well. I've curated a comprehensive understanding of the "Sometimes, Never, Always" rule for buttoning suit jackets and comprehensively grasp the principles behind different styles of single-breasted jackets and their buttoning protocols.
The "Sometimes, Never, Always" rule is a fundamental guideline that distinguishes those who truly understand the art of wearing a suit from those who don't. This rule essentially dictates how to fasten the buttons on different types of single-breasted jackets based on the number of buttons they possess.
In the context of a three-button suit jacket, the top button is considered the 'sometimes' button. It's a matter of personal choice whether you choose to fasten it or not. The middle button, the second in line, is the 'always' button. Whenever standing or walking, this button should remain fastened. The last button, located at the bottom of the jacket, is the 'never' button. This button should never be fastened, irrespective of whether you're sitting or standing.
On the other hand, a two-button single-breasted jacket simplifies the buttoning process. The top button becomes the 'always' button, which should be fastened while standing or walking. The bottom button becomes the 'never' button and should never be fastened regardless of the posture.
In the case of a single-button suit or jacket, it's advised to fasten the single button when standing or walking. However, leaving it unbuttoned while seated is recommended to prevent fabric strain and maintain both comfort and a sophisticated appearance.
Understanding these nuances not only accentuates one's personal style but also reflects a keen awareness of proper suiting etiquette and the artistry behind dressing well. Mastering the subtleties of buttoning a suit jacket showcases an individual's attention to detail and sophistication in the realm of men's fashion.
