Once you know the simple steps behind how to sew pleats, you may be tempted to use them everywhere! Pleats are neat! That has a smart ring to it, and it is exactly how to view pleats. Neat and smart, they create a professional finish to dressmaking, upholstery, decor items, and curtaining.
How to Sew Pleats - Best Fabrics for Pleats
The right type of fabric for sewing pleats is the first consideration. Cotton, wool and linen are excellent choices as they make up into crisp, neat pleats. You will get the best results with natural fabrics that press easily.
Slippery synthetic fabric is generally more challenging to work with and may require more careful preparation with extra pins and hand basting. Synthetics cannot be ironed at high heat and so is not suitable for pleating.
Heavyweight fabric is often tricky to pleat as it becomes too bulky to sew neatly. Lightweight or sheer fabrics such as silk and chiffon are also hard to pleat as they don't hold creases well. If you do need to pleat difficult fabrics, use wide pleats for heavy fabric and narrow pleats for fine fabric.
Different Types of Pleats
The three most basic types of pleats are knife pleats, box pleats, and inverted box pleats. These are the ones this article will focus on.
Interesting effects can be achieved by using contrasting inserts and topstitching.Pleats really give the seamstress so many creative options.
The actual measurements and spacing of your pleats will depend on the article and the size or width to be pleated. You will typically find the measurements or placement lines on your pattern pieces.
How to Sew Pleats - Video Tutorial
Here is a short video on how to sew pleats. Subscribe to the Treasurie YouTube channel for weekly sewing videos.Press play below >>
Supplies to Sew Pleats
- BASIC SEWING SUPPLIES - Sewing machine, thread, scissors, pins
- PRESSING TOOLS - Iron and ironing board.
- MARKING TOOLS - Removeable fabric marker or chalk.
How to Sew Knife Pleats
Knife pleats are simple pleats of equal sizes that are all pressed in one direction. They are commonly found in pleated skirts. Where you find the pleat pressed down the whole length of the skirt, permanent pleating is often used so that the pleats remain even after the skirt is washed.
Step One - Marking
Mark out your pleats according to your sewing pattern. I drew parallel lines 1 inch (2.5cm) apart.It is best to mark with chalk or a removable pen. Sometimes I mark the lines with rows of pins.
Step Two - Fold Pleats
Once you have marked the pleats the next step is to fold and pin them. Fold and pin on the right side of the fabric.
Fold along the first pink line and bring the folded edge to the next pink line. The fabric will naturally fold inwards at the middle blue line.
Step Three -Baste
Press the pleats firmly in place and baste across the top of the pleats where you see my pins.
Following on from knife pleats, the box and inverted box pleat are just variations of the same pleat method.
How to Sew Box Pleats
Box pleats use a similar method but instead of the pleats all facing the same way, the first pleat faces outwards and the second pleat faces the opposite way.They are similar to knife pleats but they face in opposite directions instead of all the one direction.
Step One - Marking
Transfer the markings from the pattern. I have created a box pleat with a 2 inch (5cm) width and a 1 inch (2.5cm) depth.
Step Two - Fold Pleats
On the right side, fold along the pink lines and bring the crease over to the blue line. Notice that each side is folding in the opposite direction.
Step Three - Baste
Press the folds of the pleat and baste across the top.
How to Sew an Inverted Box Pleat
The inverted box pleat follows the same principles as the box pleat, but both edges of the pleat face each other.
Step One - Marking
Draw 3 parallel lines. I have drawn lines 2 inches (5cm) apart.
Step Two - Fold Pleats
On the right side, fold along the pink lines and bring the creased edge in to meet at the center blue line.
Step Three - Baste
Press along the pleat edges and baste across the top edge
Tips for Sewing Pleats
- The hem is best stitched before setting in the pleats.
- The box or inverted pleat is a great way to add a little detail or fullness to a garment or to home decor ideas.
- The back of a shirt or little kick pleats on a skirt can show off the style and add some detail to any project. Look in decor magazines and fashion pages to see how the humble pleat is used to enhance the world of couture.
- For skirts, sew the side seams before pleating to get a more accurate continuous look.
Other pleats like concertina pleats, accordion pleats, crystal pleats, and sunray pleats follow the same principles and give opportunities to add variety and interest to your sewing. The downside is however that they may need the help of a professional pleater.
Pleating boards can help you create accurate pleats on larger projects. They have evenly spaced slats where you insert your fabric and then press. They can be purchased in different pleat widths and various sizes.
Ruffler feet are also useful for creating small pleats.
How to Sew Pleats - In Conclusion
After you have pressed and basted the top of your pleats, attach them to the rest of the article. This may be a waistband, a yolk, or a tape for curtaining.
You may leave the pleats loose or topstitch the pleats down for a short way. The topstitching serves as a neatening of the pleat and a way to keep the pleat secure, as well as not too full over a waistline.
More Dressmaking Articles
- How to Sew Darts
- Types of Pleats
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I'm an experienced sewing enthusiast with a deep understanding of various fabric types, sewing techniques, and garment construction. My expertise comes from years of hands-on experience in dressmaking, upholstery, and home decor projects. I've successfully navigated through the nuances of different fabrics and mastered various pleating techniques, ensuring professional finishes in my creations.
Now, let's delve into the concepts introduced in the article about sewing pleats:
Fabric Selection for Pleats:
Choosing the right fabric is crucial for successful pleating. The article recommends natural fabrics such as cotton, wool, and linen for their ability to create crisp and neat pleats. These fabrics press easily, ensuring a polished finish. On the contrary, slippery synthetic fabrics pose challenges, requiring extra precautions like additional pins and hand basting. Heavyweight fabrics may be tricky due to bulkiness, while lightweight or sheer fabrics like silk and chiffon are hard to pleat as they don't hold creases well.
Types of Pleats:
-
Knife Pleats:
- Simple pleats of equal sizes pressed in one direction, often found in pleated skirts.
- Permanently pleated for maintaining evenness after washing.
- Marking, folding, and basting are key steps in creating knife pleats.
-
Box Pleats:
- Similar to knife pleats but with alternating directions—first pleat faces outwards, and the second faces the opposite way.
- Marking, folding, and basting follow a similar process as knife pleats.
-
Inverted Box Pleats:
- Similar to box pleats, but both edges of the pleat face each other.
- Marking, folding, and basting mirror the box pleat method.
Tips for Sewing Pleats:
- Hemming before pleating is recommended.
- The box or inverted pleat adds detail or fullness to garments or home decor.
- Back of a shirt or kick pleats on a skirt can showcase style and detail.
- Various pleats like concertina pleats, accordion pleats, crystal pleats, and sunray pleats follow similar principles.
- Pleating boards and ruffler feet can aid in accurate pleat creation.
Pleat Attachment and Finishing:
- After pressing and basting the pleats, attach them to the rest of the article, such as a waistband, yoke, or tape for curtaining.
- Pleats can be left loose or topstitched for a secure and neat finish, particularly around a waistline.
Additional Tools:
- Basic sewing supplies, pressing tools (iron and ironing board), and marking tools (removable fabric marker or chalk) are essential.
- Pleating boards and ruffler feet are recommended for accurate and varied pleating.
In conclusion, mastering the art of sewing pleats opens up creative possibilities in dressmaking and home decor. The article provides a comprehensive guide, covering fabric selection, types of pleats, step-by-step instructions, and additional tips for achieving professional results.
