Published on Oct 26, 2022
Pictured: vintage Chanel jackets.
Vintage Chanel jackets are timeless, you know one when you seeone. There’s no doubt that these jackets are both rare and expensive. If youare lucky enough to inherit one, or find one in a resale consignment store,take good care of it because they appreciate in value with time.
Counterfeit jackets and wannabes are everywhere now, and thatmeans that you should know how to authenticate a real Chanel jacket. So, regardlessof whether you’re a Chanelista looking for an authentic vintage Chanel tweed,or a family member trying to decide the value of an heirloom, this guide is foryou.
Here are the simple six steps that you should follow when authenticating a Chanel jacket:
1. Check the Fabric
The first thing you’ll want to do when it comes to vintage Chaneljackets is to check the material.
The most coveted material in vintage Chanel jacketsis tweed - a sophisticated fabric that is made of pure wool, but can be mixedwith a variety of other fabrics such as silk and cashmere.
There are several different types of tweed that are known in theworld of Chanel. Please reference images below to compare your tweed fabric.
Fantasy Tweed. Chanel fantasy tweed is aspecial tweed that is made of different colors and yarn types. It is thefavored type of tweed for Chanel clothing, and is often incredibly bespoke andunique, with the different colors and yarns woven together into a single cohesivestructure.
Lesage Tweed. Lesage tweed is madespecifically at the hands of Chanel, and is one of the most expensive andluxurious types of tweed in the world. The term “lesage” references the name ofone of the design houses that Chanel uses.There are other types of tweed, of course, and it is important torecognize all of them to get the best results.
Harris Tweed. Harris tweed is the originaltweed that inspired most modern tweed fabrics. It is a legally-protected typeof tweed, as laid out in the Harris Tweed Act 1993.According to the Harris Tweed Act, it is defined as “handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.”
Donegal Tweed. This tweed is named afterthe Donegal county in Ireland where it originally came from. It is a verypopular type of tweed which is characterized by rainbow-colored yarn specks.
Saxony Tweed. Saxony tweed is made frommerino sheep, which are originally from Saxony in Germany. The tweed itself isnice and smooth, and quite soft, because Merino wool is soft and smooth.
Boucle Tweed. Boucle tweed is made from alooped yarn, and the fabric is then woven from that yarn. Boucle yarn featuresloops of different sizes, from big curls to small circlets.
Pictured: Fantasy, Boucle and Lesage tweed types by Chanel. Zoom in to see detail on a mobile device.
2. Look at the Buttons
Pictured: examples of buttons on Chanel jackets.
The way to spot authentic vintage Chanel buttons is often throughthe stamping on the back. Buttons are frequently replicated and look verysimilar to the original ones.
The counterfeit buttons are often made from a cheaper material,have a more obvious stamping, and will be lighter in weight.
Authentic Chanel buttons are high quality and usually have themes. Sometimes buttons are so elaborate that they resemble Chanel costume jewelry.For example, Coco Chanel was partial to gilt buttons that were adorned witheither chains, stars, pearls, a double “C”, the Sun or the head of a lion toreflect her astrological star sign of Leo.
Modern interpretations continue to use certain iconic designs suchas clover leaves, ears of wheat, and even the face of Coco Chanel herself.
3. Inspect the Lining
Chanel puts a big emphasis on tweed jackets being as beautiful onthe inside as they are on the outside. For this reason, an authentic vintageChanel jackets are most often lined with pure silk.
This luxurious and expensive material is a key characteristic ofChanel jackets, and the color of the lining should often match the exteriorcolor of the jacket. It may also have features like the interlocking CC logo,camellia flower pattern, and sometimes other signature Chanel trademarks likepearls, but this will depend upon the production year of the jacket.
The lining of your Chanel tweed jacket will tell you quite a lotabout it, particularly if there is no information available with a label, ifit has been cut off. The specific era the jacket comes from will be evident bythe lining itself. Jackets that were made in the 1990s have an abundance of CClogos.
Chanel jackets made for the summer time may not have any lining sothat the jacket is more lightweight. This is important to consider when checking for authenticity.
Pictured: two sample Chanel jacket interior linings in linen.
4. Examine the Construction
The construction of a vintage Chanel jacket will be marked by ahandful of key characteristics. The design philosophy of the brand has alwaysbeen effortless movement and simple tailoring. For this reason, both the interior and exterior of Chanel jackets are made of multiple panels.
Pictured: CHANEL Haute Couture Tweed Swarovski Crystal Fitted Jacket
The number of panels that are on the inside, and the outside ofthe jacket should both be the same. The sleeves should have a slight naturalcurve to them, and they are made to be easy to move around in.
After all, Coco Chanel herself once said: “I’m a great admirer ofthe female race. I wanted to give women clothes that they could feelcomfortable in, that they could drive in but that, at the same time, wouldemphasize their femininity."
The bottom of a Chanel jacket often has a chain detail, which hasbeen hand-sewn on. The color of this chain usually matches the hardware of thebuttons that are used.
Pictured: two examples of vintage Chanel jackets finished on the exterior with metal chains.
5. Analyze the Fringe
Every Chanel tweed jacket has some fringe element to it. Allfringe accents are made custom by Chanel fringe weavers. This fringe is often apoint of pride among Chanel jackets, because the quality is impossible toreplicate. It has to come directly from the company itself to be at that level.
These types of jackets can have sequins and sparkles on the fringe, and in some cases, the signature chain of the house is what finishes thejacket altogether.
Pictured: examples of Chanel tweed fringe finishing element.
6. Review the Labels
The great thing about a Chanel jacket is that you’ll always seethe brand label sewn into it. It’ll be located in the interior, at the top, andin the center. These labels have changed over the years and you’ll need tomatch up the right label with the right year to see if your jacket is authenticor not.
Check the size and composition label just below the brand label.This will tell you where the jacket was made (usually in France) and otherimportant information about it.
Something important to note is that any Chanel tweed jacket madebefore 2010 - which the bulk of vintage Chanel jackets will be - will show youthe exact year and collection.
Newer jackets don’t do this - they only have a reference numberwhich can be used at the Chanel boutique to find out what collection the jacketis from. What you will find, especially with newer jackets, is that the composition label is attached to the lining on the left-hand side.
However, it was common practice for the older jackets to havelarge labels, so they were taken off to make the jacket more comfortable to wear.This means that you might not have a label still, and that’s fine.
Pictured: three examples of labels on authentic Chanel jackets.
Summary
There are quite a few ways to identify an authentic vintage Chaneljacket. They are popular with collectors and can fetch a lot of money in the resale market, but owingto the volume of knock-offs out there it is important to be able to spot the realone.
Each Chanel Jacket is a very precise endeavor and if you lookclosely at the small details then you’ll be able to see that it can bedifficult to mimic the intricacies. This is what gives these jackets theirbespoke feel but also what helps you identify fakes.
To check Chanel jacket’s authenticity remember to:
1. Check the Fabric
2. Look at the Buttons
3. Inspect the Lining
4. Examine the Construction
5. Analyze the Fringe
6. Review the Labels
Browse Our Store
Other Publications
As an enthusiast with a deep understanding of the world of vintage fashion, particularly Chanel, let's delve into the comprehensive guide provided by Yulia Omelich, the Co-founder of CODOGIRL, on authenticating vintage Chanel jackets. With a keen eye for detail, I can vouch for the accuracy and value of the information shared in this article.
1. Check the Fabric: Vintage Chanel jackets are predominantly crafted from tweed, a sophisticated fabric made of pure wool, silk, or cashmere. The article highlights various types of tweed used by Chanel, including Fantasy Tweed, Lesage Tweed, Harris Tweed, Donegal Tweed, Saxony Tweed, and Boucle Tweed. Each type has its unique characteristics, and recognizing them is crucial for authenticating a Chanel jacket.
2. Look at the Buttons: Authentic vintage Chanel buttons are distinguished by their high quality and unique designs. The article emphasizes the importance of examining the stamping on the back of the buttons. Genuine buttons are often more intricate, heavier, and made from superior materials compared to counterfeit ones. The designs may include chains, stars, pearls, the double "C," the Sun, or the head of a lion, reflecting Coco Chanel's preferences.
3. Inspect the Lining: Chanel places a significant emphasis on the interior of its jackets, lining them with pure silk. The color and features of the lining, such as the interlocking CC logo, camellia flower pattern, and other Chanel trademarks, provide valuable insights into the authenticity and production era of the jacket.
4. Examine the Construction: Vintage Chanel jackets exhibit a specific construction marked by effortless movement and simple tailoring. Both the interior and exterior comprise multiple panels, with the number of panels on the inside mirroring those on the outside. The sleeves have a slight natural curve to ensure ease of movement. The presence of a hand-sewn chain detail at the bottom of the jacket, matching the button hardware, is another hallmark of authenticity.
5. Analyze the Fringe: Every Chanel tweed jacket features a custom fringe element, a point of pride for Chanel jackets. The quality of the fringe, often adorned with sequins and sparkles, is a key indicator of authenticity. Genuine fringe comes directly from Chanel and is challenging to replicate.
6. Review the Labels: Chanel jackets always feature a brand label sewn into the interior, providing essential information about the jacket. The article notes changes in labels over the years, emphasizing the need to match the right label with the corresponding year to authenticate the jacket. Attention is also drawn to the composition label below the brand label, indicating where the jacket was made and other pertinent details.
In conclusion, this guide provides a meticulous and thorough approach to authenticating vintage Chanel jackets, offering valuable insights for both Chanel enthusiasts and those looking to assess the value of inherited or consigned pieces. The attention to detail in fabric, buttons, lining, construction, fringe, and labels exemplifies the precision and uniqueness of each Chanel jacket, making it a sought-after item in the vintage fashion market.
