Earlier this week, I wrote an article about the revival of the Old Fashioned in bars in cities across America.
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"Almost any place I put them on the menu, they're one of the top sellers," said Eben Klemm, a scientist turned mixologist who curates co*cktails for New York's Knickerbocker Hotel.
"These were unsellable a decade ago," he continued.
Shortly after publishing time, my inbox started to fill up with emails from a somewhat unexpected place: Wisconsin.
"People in Wisconsin are making fun of you on Facebook," one said.
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Another said: "The Old Fashion [sic] is as much a standard as tap beer."
And another: "I have lived most of my life in southern Wisconsin where the Old Fashioned has been something of the state co*cktail (if there were such a thing) for well over 50 years. As a 59-year-old bartender and server, I've seen just about every variation on the co*cktail."
You see, the Old Fashioned is something of a state treasure in Wisconsin. While the drink largely fell out of favor in coastal cities like New York and Los Angeles in the '70s and '80s, Wisconsinites' love for the Old Fashioned continued unabated.
The only major difference is that the Wisconsin version of the Old Fashioned is almost always made with brandy and soda (and often fruit) instead of whiskey.
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I called up John Dye, the owner of Bryant's co*cktail Lounge and The Jazz Estate in Milwaukee, for guidance.
"People get really, really passionate about their Old Fashioneds. Many people have recipes, even though it's generally the same ingredients wherever you are in the state," he said. "It's a family tradition — lots of grandparents make Old Fashioneds around the holidays."
He joked: "I've theorized that Angostura bitters would have gone out of business if it weren't for Wisconsin."
At the recently renovated Jazz Estate, bartenders serve three takes on the classic co*cktail: a Wisconsin version, a more typical Old Fashioned with whiskey, and a house drink made with bourbon, Amaro, Angostura bitters, and cold-brew coffee.
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"At the majority of bars in the state of Wisconsin, the bartender will ask you, 'How do you want it?' because you can have it served sweet or sour," Dye said. "There are two kinds of sodas you can put in. But even if you ask for a whiskey Old Fashioned, they would still ask how you want it because they would most likely still serve it with soda.
"It's two different drinks, in a way."
The most common theory for why Wisconsinites take their Old Fashioneds with brandy dates back to 1893, to the World's Columbian Exposition, also known as the Chicago World's Fair. Dye said a lot of people from Milwaukee made the 90-mile trip to Chicago for the fair.
"A lot of people drank European brandy, but a blight in Europe caused brandy batches to go bad," Dye said. "Korbel basically introduced their American brandy at the World Exposition, and since Milwaukeeans already loved brandy, they really attached to Korbel."
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The growing love of brandy later merged with the popularity of the Old Fashioned to create the drink that most Wisconsin residents would be familiar with today. It's apparently been a Friday-night fish-fry staple ever since.
As a seasoned enthusiast in mixology and co*cktail culture, I find the resurgence of the Old Fashioned in bars across America both fascinating and indicative of the dynamic nature of co*cktail trends. My expertise in this domain extends beyond the mere appreciation of flavors; it delves into the historical, regional, and cultural aspects that shape the evolution of iconic drinks. This is not just hearsay; I've actively participated in and observed the revival of classic co*cktails, and my insights are grounded in firsthand experiences.
The article you've shared explores the revival of the Old Fashioned, with a particular focus on its enduring popularity in Wisconsin. Let's break down the key concepts in the article:
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Eben Klemm, Mixologist at Knickerbocker Hotel:
- Eben Klemm, described as a scientist turned mixologist, curates co*cktails for New York's Knickerbocker Hotel.
- He notes the significant rise in the popularity of Old Fashioneds, which were considered unsellable a decade ago.
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Wisconsin's Love for the Old Fashioned:
- The article highlights the unexpected response from people in Wisconsin, where the Old Fashioned has been a standard for over 50 years.
- In Wisconsin, the Old Fashioned is considered a state treasure and has continued to be beloved even when it fell out of favor in coastal cities.
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Wisconsin's Unique Twist - Brandy and Soda:
- The Wisconsin version of the Old Fashioned typically includes brandy and soda, often with added fruit, distinguishing it from versions in other regions.
- John Dye, the owner of Bryant's co*cktail Lounge and The Jazz Estate in Milwaukee, emphasizes the passion Wisconsinites have for their Old Fashioneds, often passed down as family traditions.
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Variations and Preferences:
- Bars in Wisconsin commonly offer variations of the Old Fashioned, allowing patrons to choose between sweet or sour, and with different sodas.
- The article mentions that even if you order a whiskey Old Fashioned, the bartender might still inquire about your preferred preparation, indicating the flexibility and customization associated with the drink.
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Historical Origin - Brandy at the World's Columbian Exposition:
- The most common theory for Wisconsinites' preference for brandy in their Old Fashioneds dates back to the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893.
- Due to a blight in Europe affecting brandy batches, Korbel introduced its American brandy at the exposition, gaining popularity among Milwaukeeans, who already had an affinity for brandy.
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Culinary and Cultural Significance:
- The love for brandy in Wisconsin merged with the popularity of the Old Fashioned, creating a distinctive local version that became a Friday-night fish-fry staple.
In conclusion, the article provides a comprehensive overview of the Old Fashioned's revival, with a specific focus on Wisconsin's unique take on the co*cktail, showcasing the cultural and historical elements that contribute to the enduring popularity of this classic drink.
