If fur and feathers are vintage, does that make it OK? (2024)

GLAMOUR reached out to Rihanna’s stylist Jahleel Weaver for confirmation on whether Rihanna's vintage fur coat was real fur or not but received no reply. We've since seen that the coat is tagged as Lab2022 on his Instagram feed. Lab2022 is an exclusive archive of Tom Ford-era Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent pieces curated by collector Neil Leonard and the coat in question dates from Karl Lagerfeld’s own collection for Fall 1987 (and it is real fur.)

As Rihanna's vintage fur coat is 36 year old pre-loved piece, does that negate the ethical questions? PETA disagrees. Earlier this year the animal rights organisation sent Rihanna a fake fur coat to replace her real ones and wrote an open letter requesting she stop wearing real fur. (Although rewind three years previously and PETA actually gave Rihanna a Compassion in Fashion award for Fenty’s faux leather collection…).

A similar conversation has been raised over the last few days, after Hailey Bieber jetted to Aspen in Colorado with her husband, Justin, and best friend, Kendall Jenner.

Seemingly unafraid of the chill in the air, Hailey posted a series of photos on Instagram wearing a tiny a new season two-piece from N°.21's Spring/Summer 2024 runway. But it was her choice of outerwear that is raising eyebrows.

Hailey in Aspen, 2024

@haileybieber / Instagram

Roberto Cavalli, AW05 Runway

FILIPPO MONTEFORTE

A dramatic feathered coat from Roberto Cavalli’s autumn/winter 2005 collection - originally worn on the runway by Australian supermodel, Gemma Ward - the piece has reignited the question as to the ethical implications - and occasional forgiveness - of such fabrics when they have not been made or recently purchased ‘as new’.

Emma Håkansson, Founding Director of Collective Fashion Justice, explains the ethics around vintage fur. “Of course wearing vintage fur doesn’t directly contribute to suffering in the way that purchasing and wearing new fur does, but it perpetuates the acceptability of the latter. As a result, wearing an animal’s skin, regardless of where it’s come from, can be a slippery slope back to popularising cruel fashion, particularly when the wearer has such great influence.”

It’s also essential to look beyond the aesthetics and discover the deeper meanings behind Rihanna’s own outfit choices… Nova Reid is author of The Good Ally and runs an anti-racism course and explains, “There is a history of Black women wearing fur, particularly in America, where Black Americans weren’t allowed, by law, to buy a home so acquiring fur was often used as a symbol of status. Historically, when you are denigrated because of your social status, the way you look and the colour of your skin, you try to have proximity to belonging. For Black women, fur was seen as an investment.”

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If fur is killing animals and faux-fur is killing the planet, what on earth should you do?

There are similar questions being asked in silk and leather industries.

If fur and feathers are vintage, does that make it OK? (2)

So, on the biggest night of the year for the the fashion industry, there could be nuance behind Rihanna's choice of vintage fur? “I’ve seen disproportionate reactions to Black women where there is policing of their commercial choices, what they wear, their looks and their behaviour," Nova says. "We are human beings and we are allowed to make choices. That includes ones that are poor or that might give offence to others but disproportionate reactions need to be looked at with curiosity."

For more from Glamour UK's Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.

For more from Alex Fullerton, follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton

If fur and feathers are vintage, does that make it OK? (2024)

FAQs

Is it okay to wear fur if it's vintage? ›

Vintage fur is sustainable — if you have to wear it

“[With vintage], it's already been made, it's already out there, and really the best thing that we could be doing with our clothes is keeping them in use for as long as possible and out of landfill,” Drennan says. Which seems to be the case, at least for now.

Do vintage furs have value? ›

If you have an old fur coat you haven't worn in years, consider selling it. Depending on the quality, age, fur type, and condition, your coat can fetch you top dollar. But get a professional appraisal before you put a price tag on it.

Can old fur coats be restored? ›

Can a dried-out coat ever be restored? The quick and simple answer is yes. There are a lot of furriers who are able to restore this for you professionally. It is advised to go to a professional as the fur material can be sensitive and there may need to be more care taken to restore it.

What to do with an inherited fur coat? ›

Although fur coats are generally passed on through family, donating and selling are other options to give away your furs. You may be able to sell fur coats online or at consignment shops that specialize in vintage clothing.

Does anyone wear furs anymore? ›

Even though it's still pretty common to see people wearing fur coats or fur trim in colder months, fur production not only causes horrific animal suffering, it puts us all at risk of future pandemics.

How can you tell if a vintage coat is real fur? ›

Look at the base of the hairs.

Fake fur usually has a fabric backing which can be fairly easily observed. Real fur, on the other hand, will be attached to (tanned) skin, similar to thin leather. Pushing a pin through the base of the hairs can also help here.

Can you still sell furs? ›

Where to Sell Fur. Wood says hunters and trappers can still sell fur to Fur Harvesters Auction Incorporated through agents that pick up the furs. “They run routes and once they collect all the fur, they send them across the border at once.

What type of fur was most valuable? ›

The undisputed king: Russian Sable fur

When it comes to the most expensive fur type, Russian sable takes the crown. Prized for its unparalleled softness, warmth, and a luxurious sheen, Russian sable has graced the shoulders of royalty for centuries.

Do pawn shops buy real fur coats? ›

Fur Coats

Often, they get packed away only to get pulled out for occasional use the following year. This makes them a great item to pawn in the summer and pay off and get back come winter. Bring them into an EZPAWN and get top dollar now for that luxurious fur coat.

How to freshen vintage fur? ›

Place your fur on a hanger in a plastic bag. Put 1 CUP of coffee grounds in the bottom of the bag and seal the bag for 2 days. After 2 days, remove the coat and allow it to air out, allowing the coffee smell to dissipate.

How do you dispose of old fur coats? ›

Donate to an animal shelter

Many animal shelters and wildlife rehabilitation centres accept donations of second hand coats. This makes another way to turn an old fur coat into a tool for helping animals. These fur jackets are used to line crates and create snuggly beds to keep our furry friends warm and snug.

How to stop vintage fur from shedding? ›

Keep the coat out of direct sunlight.

Direct sunlight can dry out a fur coat and cause it to begin shedding. To avoid this, store the coat in a cool, dark place where it is not exposed to light or heat. This does not mean that you can't wear your coat out in the sunlight ever.

What to do with grandma's old fur coat? ›

Age and outdated styling decrease their value, so you might consider turning the coat into something you can wear – like a more fashionable coat — or something that can warm you such as a blanket, pillows, hats and mittens, teddy bears and even doll clothes.

Are old furs worth anything? ›

Most vintage furs are worth less than $750 US. This Worthpoint price list seems to be accurate. Here's a summary of the Worthpoint list, with some notes based on reviewing furs in 2023. Mouton Lamb coat or jacket: $50 – $350.

What ruins fur coats? ›

Light is one of the most damaging agents to fur garments because they are made from organic materials. Unnecessary light exposure can cause the fur to fade or bleach.

Is wearing fake fur OK? ›

Many types of fake fur are also harmful to the environment, as they are made from non-renewable petroleum products, and may sit in landfill for hundreds of years – if not longer – before breaking down.

What months can you wear fur? ›

When should you wear a fur coat? Speaking of the season, we should also talk about when you should wear a fur coat. To be honest, you can wear it anytime you want, but of course, because its main function is to keep you warm, you should only wear it during Spring, Autumn, and the Winter months.

Is it illegal to wear real fur? ›

There are no specific laws against wearing fur in the UK or Europe, so it is technically legal to do so. However, there is a growing movement against fur clothing, as it is seen as cruel and unnecessary. Many people choose not to wear fur out of respect for animals, and some cities have even banned fur farms.

Why does vintage fur smell? ›

The Main Causes of Odours in Furs

All furs are susceptible to moisture, but the longer and denser furs are more at risk to developing a musty smell due to moisture being held within the fur. Dust can also cause unpleasant smells over time after it settles onto the fur.

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