The increasing popularity of faux fur is great progress in ending animal exploitation, with many ditching animal fur in favour of faux alternatives. However, there are many questions being asked about faux fur - is it plastic? Is faux fur biodegradable? Can we recycle faux fur? Is it bad for the environment?
These are all valid questions surrounding whether these artificial materials could be causing pollution and damage to the environment, but does faux fur production cause more damage than the animal fur industry? We look into whether faux fur negatively affects the environment, and the things you should consider as an eco-friendly shopper.
What is faux fur?
We already know that the animal fur industry is not dead - yet. Faux fur is an alternative to animal fur using manufactured fabrics. It is produced from polymers such as acrylic.Creating faux fur involvesseveral stepsincluding the processing of acrylic fibres, weaving it through a backing material to provide structure and treating it to resemble natural animal fur.
Compared to killing animals for their fur and all the extra costs of managing caged farms, faux fur seems to be the go-to replacement for both ethics and convenience. However, it’s important to be aware that some faux furs are not vegan. They could contain other animal-derived products such as wool and leather in the backing material and other accessories. Some ‘faux’ furs are even mislabelled as animal-free when they are actually real animal fur. Eugh.
Is faux fur sustainable?
The synthetic polymers used to create faux fur originate from raw materials such as coal, petroleum and limestone. These arenon-renewable resourcesformed over millions of years through layers of fossilised animals and plants.Petroleum is a liquid crude oil found in rocks under Earth's surface and extracted through wells, while coal is in solid form and requires digging the fossilised swamps underneath layers of sediment.
As faux fur is made from non-renewable resources, the production contributes to numerous ongoing climate concerns. We are running out of fossil fuels because of society's over-reliance on them to power plants, heat homes, fuel vehicles, create plastic and much more.The environmentalimpact of fossil fuelindustries is nothing short of alarming. The extraction, processing and transportation of fossil fuels release air pollutants and toxic waste into the water. These can have deadly effects on people's health and quality of life.
Fossil fuel companies also play a big role in environmental injustice by burdening low-income communities and developing countries.
The fast fashion origins of artificial fur
Faux fur has been in the fashion industry since the late 1860s as a convenient and cheaper method to imitate animal fur.Fashionista argue that faux fur is aligned with theprinciples of fast fashion:"why pay more for the real thing when you can buy more of something similar for less?"It is now easier than ever to buy affordable and disposable clothing regardless of income and social status.
Cheap faux fur offers shoppers a more accessible way to buy new clothes each season compared to real animal fur coats which are expensive and require upkeep. It’s important to note that not all faux fur is low-cost and that faux fur is a staple across the fashion industry, with high fashion brand Stella McCartney selling faux fur coats over £5000.
The sustainability of faux fur goes hand in hand with the sustainability of fast fashion and the world's demands for easily-accessible materials at the cost of the planet, and cheap labour from vulnerable communities.
Does faux fur create an environmental problem while solving an ethical one?
Faux fur is made from synthetic polymers which are a form of plastic. With polyester taking500-1000 yearsto biodegrade we need to question whether faux fur is another addition to our plastic waste list?
That’s certainly what the fur industry founders and supporters want people to believe. TheBritish Fur Tradeargues that animal fur is a natural and biodegradable alternative to faux fur. A2012 studyby International Fur Trade Federation reports that faux fur coats production has the highest total environmental demand at over 83%. It notes that the life cycle of faux fur uses more non-renewable energy than animal fur, which has a greater impact on global warming.
Is the fur industry creating fake news?
Let's unwrap this. Firstly, studies on faux fur's environmental impact are biased and conducted by pro-fur companies. They compare real animal fur to faux fur so it can be uplifted as a ‘better’ product for the planet. The use of fossil fuels and plastic is a serious concern that we must address, however there is no direct evidence that faux fur is bad for the environment.
Remember: fur is only natural when still on the body of the living owner.Anything we manufacture leaves an environmental cost, including real animal fur taken for human use, which is chemically processed and treated.
Most importantly, needless violence against animals alongside the fur industry's high environmental footprints is not a better solution to plastic waste.
In fact, faux fur is a niche product representing less than 0.1% out of 80 billion garments made every year. Compared toanimal-derived textilessuch as silk, cow leather and alpaca wool, polyester and acrylic have less of a negative impact on the planet. Faux fur products such as coats do not contribute significantly to plastic pollution in the sea either - they only need to be washed once or twice a year compared to regular synthetic clothing which may be washed weekly, releasing micro-plastics in the ocean. Faux fur can also be upcycled for different purposes, or to create other eco-efficient products with less waste and harm.
The future is fur-free
It's fair to say that all new clothing that is manufactured and bought impacts the environment in one way or another.
However, picking on faux fur exclusively does not solve the bigger problem. We should also not discredit these efforts to provide ethical alternatives to fur. Many manufacturers and fashion houses are now leading the industry with their take on sustainable and animal-friendly faux furs.
For example,ECOPELdeveloped plant-based fur KOBA, used by Stella McCartney in their fur-free line. Compared to plastic-based faux fur, it uses 30% less energy and reduces 63% of greenhouse gas emissions. ECOPEL also works with Seaqual Initiative, a community that fights against marine plastic pollution. These are just some of the companies bringing more eco-friendly faux fur options into the industry.
Systematic change is necessary to end our over-reliance on practices that damage our planet. But the shift to faux fur is a positive change towards better ethics and positive practices in the fashion industry. It’s encouraging to see luxury and affordable brands find ethical alternatives and turn away from animal exploitation (only slightly if they’re still using other animal skins though…)
So, what can I do as an eco-friendly consumer?
If you want to shop and enjoy fashion sustainably and ethically you have a number of options when it comes to faux fur. If you don’t want to promote the iconography of fur at all, your view might be not to purchase or wear any faux fur at all. You might not want to use products that are made to resemble animal body parts such as fur.
On the other hand, the development of vegan fur might make you want to buy faux fur products and support ethical vegan businesses. You could consider the following if you wish to buy faux fur:
Company ethics and sustainability
What does the brand think about protecting the planet? Read through their website to understand their environmental, anti-slavery and ethical production policies which can explain how they are taking steps (or not) on climate change, and how they look after the people that work in their supply chain. Look for any accreditation and links to reputable organisations or campaigns. Pro tip: some faux fur companies also offer recycling schemes where you can donate your old product for recycling or repurposing and receive a discount on a future replacement.
Avoid impulsive purchases
Is the cheap faux fur jacket you want to buy something you will wear beyond this season? Do you feel the need to buy it because it's in the 50% off sale? The best tip for online shopping is to leave products sitting in the basket overnight and sleep on it. Consider if the faux fur you’re buying is something that is useful and worthwhile for you.
Look for eco-conscious faux fur
Not all faux fur is made from cheap plastic or designed for fast fashion. Many innovative companies use recycled plastic bottles in production, and give life to waste products by upcycling old faux fur. Alongside KOBA, we are bound to see the development of more sustainable plant-based textiles in the coming future.
There’s lots to think about faux fur - some of the claims about them being unsustainable are from the fur industry which makes us question their validity. Faux fur saves lives and its growth is a win for animals as the fur industry shrinks. Is wearing faux fur setting an example for the look of fur done ethically? Or does it promote the iconography of animal fur as a fabric for humans? Ultimately, it’s up to you. See what aligns with your values and outlook most.
