Perhaps one of the more divisive elements of men’s underwear, whether or not you incorporate an undershirt into your everyday wear is quite a personal choice. But how much do you know aboutundershirts? And is wearing an undershirt the best choice for you? We’re here to help with our ultimate guide to this unique piece of underwear.
Table of Contents
- The Ultimate Undershirt Video Guide
- What Is An Undershirt?
- Undershirt Anatomy
- The Classic White T-Shirt
- The History of the Undershirt
- The Best Undershirt Tips
- Our Original Undershirt Video Guide
The Ultimate Undershirt Video Guide
Preston is on hand to give you all the information you need on the history and how-tos of the undergarment, as well as a few tips on finding the best men’s undershirts out there.
What Is An Undershirt?
You’d be forgiven for thinking that an undershirt is simply a T-shirt worn underneath your dress shirt, or whatever outer layers are present in your outfits. While the tee and undershirt do resemble one another, they are fundamentally different garments.
Undershirt Anatomy
1
Undershirt Fit
Unlike t-shirts, undershirts are cut to fit very close, almost like a second skin. This is because you want the other layers of your outfit to fit you properly, and a t-shirt with a looser fit would spoil the lines of well-fitting outer layers.
2
Undershirt Length
A standard tee is cut to finish at around your hips, whereas an undershirt is typically cut longer. This is to allow a good overlap between the top of your underpants and the bottom of your undershirt. It will also prevent the undershirt from riding up and becoming untucked throughout the day.
3
Undershirt Neckline
Classic t-shirts are usually finished in a crewneck style, but you don’t want this style in an undershirt. This particular neckline is cut way too high, therefore is guaranteed to either peek out of an open shirt collar, or create an unsightly, lumpy ring around your neck when worn with a tie. Therefore, undershirts should be cut with a deep v-neck finished with a thin, flat seam to alleviate these issues.
4
Undershirt Sleeve Length
T-shirt sleeves are cut quite short, so it may surprise you to see that undershirt sleeves are usually longer by comparison. One purpose of this is to help with protecting your outer layers from underarm odors, as the undershirt covers a larger area of your armpit this way. Another reason is for comfort, as a shorter sleeve has the potential to bunch-up underneath your arm throughout the day, which is very unpleasant.
The Classic White T-Shirt
If all this talk of undershirts has inspired you to explore more about its big brother, the t-shirt, then this video is the one for you. Here, Kyle will demonstrate six of his favorite outfits that incorporate a classic white tee as a stylish base layer, so that you can effortlessly incorporate this timeless garment into your wardrobe, too.
The History of the Undershirt
Is the undershirt a new thing, or has it been around for many years? When did men start wearing undershirts, and why? Read on as we discover the roots of the undershirt, taking us up to where we are today.
The Evolution of Clothes & Undergarments
We’ve all likely seen the famous Jockey advertisem*nts from the 1970s and 80s, and the 21st Century has seen a wealth of marketing showing models sporting various styles of underwear. But it wasn’t always this way, as for many centuries, it was considered taboo to showcase underwear so publicly. This means that today, it is very difficult to find paintings, illustrations, or photographs of underwear that predate the 20th century.
A Rare Example
Illustrated around 1345, we can see an example of medieval underwear. Especially present are the stockings or “hose” that cover the subject’s legs and are tied at the waist. These are the precursors to modern-day socks, and although we enjoy over-the-calf socks at the Gentleman’s Gazette, these stockings are a bit extreme!
Throughout the evolution of clothes, one can observe two schools of thought. On the one hand, the church understands clothes and undergarments to be a means of covering up people’s sense of shame. Even the Bible implies that Adam and Eve wore a fig leave because of it. On the other hand, sociological and anthropological studies have shown that clothes – and, in fact, any form of accessories – were worn to make oneself as attractive as possible.
The Original Purpose of Underwear: Protecting Expensive Clothes
Initially, undergarments were not designed to protect the body from the elements nor to add another layer of insulation. Instead, the purpose of an undershirt or any other style of underwear was to protect the outer layer of garments from touching the body, especially since regular bathing did not become commonplace until the 18th century.
It took time and a lot of money to create garments before the Industrial Revolution and the rise of mass-manufactured clothing. Fibers needed to be gathered, spun, and woven, which took time and skill to do well. If clothing was to be colored, the dyeing process was even trickier, and any embellishments, such as embroidery would have been painstakingly achieved by hand.
These were primarily the clothes worn by the rich and noble, but the working class also wore undergarments as protection; but instead of protecting the clothes from them, they wanted to be protected from their clothes!
People without the means to afford expensive garments would have resorted to rough, cheap, and uncomfortable fibers. Plus, dye-colored clothing wasn’t necessarily reliable at a lower price point, with the possibility of a poor-quality dye discoloring the wearer’s skin. Therefore, undergarments were an essential part of protection for all people during this time.
The Undershirt Evolves
By the 15th century, young men of nobility began to wear at least part of their shirts exposed and while there was some criticism at first, the trend of revealing the shirt prevailed over time. After a while, even respectable men in society would show more of their decorative shirts, such as revealing collars and cuffs.
Cuffs & Collars
Up until the end of the 19th century, you’d never see much of a shirt other than the cuffs and collars, which is why detachable collars and cuffs were invented. That way only the visible parts had to be washed consistently. To this point, what we know as a dress shirt today would have been strictly considered an undershirt!
While a gentleman would only wear a shirt without an additional undershirt, the poor working class would sometimes wear a tunic that later developed into the sleeveless undershirt as we know it today. Usually, it was made of wool or flannel to keep them warm. On the other hand, if a gentleman were too cold, he would wear more overgarments, but he would not add a layer underneath.
In the US, the so-called Union Suit was an overall style undergarment that was patented in 1868. Although first worn by women, it was later adapted by men as well, though it was always associated with a blue-collar, rural demographic, as opposed to the elegant set.
At the beginning of the 20th century, soldiers would often wear undergarments to protect their uniforms from dirt, and in hot climates, it was more comfortable to wear just the undershirt.
In 1934, the always elegant Clark Gable revealed inIt Happened One Night that he did not wear an undershirt. Legend has itthatundershirt sales in the US dropped by 75%. Apparently, it took until WWII for sales of undershirts to recover, and then, soldiers wore them on their own as a form of outerwear. While it was considered to be poor taste in the beginning, by the fifties, Hollywood stars such as Marlon Brando and James Dean would wear them in public, and so the T-Shirt as we know it today became a success.
Undershirt FAQs
What is the purpose of men’s undershirts?
At its basic purpose, an undershirt creates a barrier between your skin and your outer garments.
Why do people wear undershirts?
Some enjoy the extra layer of warmth, while others like a barrier between their skin and their outer garments. Some claim that an undershirt wicks away the natural body moisture such as sweat, too.
Should a man always wear an undershirt?
Whether you choose to wear an undershirt or not is entirely down to personal preference. Some men may have grown up wearing undershirts and can’t imagine dressing without one. Other men prefer to go without. Whichever you choose, it has to be right for you.
Should undershirts be tight or loose?
An undershirt should fit close to your body, much more so than a t-shirt. But it shouldn’t be so tight that it’s restrictive. In order to get the correct fit, most undershirts have a blend of elastane in order to achieve a good level of figure-hugging stretch.
Why did men start wearing undershirts?
Undershirts evolved from looser garments worn under the outer layers. Originally, undergarments were worn to protect the clothing from the skin, and vice versa. This is due to clothing being either fine and expensive or made from rough and uncomfortable fibers, depending on how wealthy you were.
Why are undershirts so tight?
Undershirts need to fit closely in order to maintain a clean and flattering line when you wear layers over them. This has the added bonus of being more comfortable than wearing a looser-fitting t-shirt that would likely bunch up uncomfortably underneath your clothes.
Do undershirts have to be white?
Historically, undergarments were white in order to clean them well without removing any dye or detailing. Nowadays, with the advent of better laundry technology, undershirts can be in a range of colors. White is traditional, but something closer to your skin tone is going to be best.
What color undershirt is least visible?
Being able to find an undershirt closer to your skin tone can be a challenge, therefore it’s best to go with a neutral tone such as heather grey. This tone works particularly well as it’s not so dark that it makes lighter-colored shirts look dirty, and it isn’t bright enough to show through darker shirts.
The Best Undershirt Tips
Today, you can find all kinds of undershirts, ranging from “performance shirts” that make comfort claims to the classic sleeveless shirt, sometimes also referred to as a tank top, or if white and ribbed, a “wife beater”. Here are some top tips for your undershirt shopping, purchasing, and wearing pleasure.
DO Wear an Undershirt, Not A T-Shirt
It is important to highlight thatan undershirt is NOT the same as a t-shirt. Since it is meant for layering, an undershirt is generally thinner and more lightweight. Traditionally, undershirts are ribbed because a ribbed shirt can stretch more and is, therefore, more comfortable. So if you want to wear an undershirt, do not use a T-shirt because they are too big, too stiff, and too thick to be comfortable underneath a dress shirt.
DON’T Wear White or Black Undershirts
Forget white. In an ideal world, your undershirt should match the color of your skin, or it should be darker such as heather grey, so you do not see the outline of the undershirt on top of the shirt. This may seem odd at first but even underneath a white dress shirt, a skin-colored undershirt will be less visible than a plain white T-shirt, or white undershirts. This is especially true in the areas between the skin and the t-shirt around your biceps and collar. Unfortunately, skin tones vary greatly so there is no easy way to buy skin-colored shirts. Some offer undershirts in heather gray and they are better than white.
Skin-Tone Undershirts
Take a pure cotton undershirt that fits you well and brew some strong black tea. Put the shirt in the solution in a basin to avoid staining your sink and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Finally, rinse off the excess, and the shirt will have a color value very similar to that of bare Caucasian skin – and the stain will be relatively permanent. Repeat the process to match darker skin tones. Of course, it goes without saying that you should not bleach the shirt when washing it!
DO Wear Close-Fitting Undershirts
It’s not often you’ll see us recommend a slim fit, but if you decide to wear an undershirt, make sure it fits your torso closely, and has short sleeves and small armholes. Otherwise, you may feel rather uncomfortable and constricted in your movement with a larger undershirt. Also, you want it to be long enough, so it doesn’t come untucked.
DON’T Wear Sleeveless Undershirts
You can get white sleeveless undershirts pretty much anywhere, rather inexpensively. They are usually made out of 100% cotton or cotton and polyester blend with a fine ribbed look. Many men still wear them today for work as an undershirt and some even wear them to the gym because they like the increased range of movement.
However much history these may have, stylistically, they leave a lot to be desired. Worn under shirts, you can usually see the outline of it even if you wear a jacket, and if you take it off, it becomes even more apparent that you are wearing one. Functionally, if you use undershirts to absorb sweat, then this style doesn’t work well because your armpits aren’t really covered.
DON’T Show Your Undershirt
One of the worst style mistakes you can make is to show your undershirt when you wear yourshirt unbuttoned or when the lines show underneath your dress shirt. If you wear summer shirts with thin fabric, it is impossible not to see the undershirt.
Avoid Crew Neck Undershirts
The crew neck undershirt has a high neckline that is somewhat visible when you wear your dress shirt buttoned-up, but it looks particularly terrible.
Do Wear Deep-Cut V-Neck Undershirts
If you want to wear undershirts, always opt for deep-cut V-neck styles with flat seams, because one can see whether a man wears an undershirt underneath his dress shirt even if it is buttoned all the way, and he has a jacket on. If you take off your jacket, chances are you will show some rings on your upper arm unless the undershirtis extrathin and close-fitting.
Pure Cotton or Blends
Most men who wear undershirts today either go with a classic crew neck or v-neck style. Plain white shirts are available everywhere and even solid-colored versions can be found easily.
Just like the sleeveless shirts, they usually come in pure Pima cotton or poly blends, though lately there have been all kinds of cotton blends with spandex, viscose, modal, etc. Usually, the goal of these additions is to either make the shirts softer or more durable, but they generally come with a higher price tag.
Performance Underwear
In the last few years, many sports outfitters have come up with all kinds of artificial fibers that are designedto transport moisture away from your body and make you feel dryer.
When you are going for a hike, down the slopes, or rafting, these are totally fine – but they are really ill-suited as an undershirt for a dress shirt because they often come in patterns, bright colors and always with a contrasting logo that will be visible through your shirt.
10 Reasons You Should & Shouldn’t Wear an Undershirt
You may wonder whether you should wear an undershirt at all, and it depends on several factors that we’ll explore below:
Why Should You Wear an Undershirt?
Sweat control
If you sweat profusely so that your jackets show it, wearing an undershirt will helpyou. Many people claim that undershirts have moisture-wicking properties, and while it’s true that your undershirt wicks away some of the sweat, the reality is it simply provides a barrier between your underarm and your dress shirt fabric.
Added Comfort
Even today, we occasionally encounter uncomfortable clothing like astiff-fronted evening shirt for black tie and white events. Wearing an undershirt can help avoid chafed skin, and it is invisible underneath the thicker bib shirt front.
Temperature Control
An undershirt adds a layer of warmth to your outfit, which is great for colder climates and transitional seasons. Because a lot of modern-day clothing is constructed from lighter fabrics, an undershirt is especially helpful for maintaining a more consistent body temperature.
Better Style
Undershirts can smarten you up by keeping your nipples from showing or ample chest hair from poking through the surface of your shirt. Plus, well-cutundershirts are not visible in the collar area, even if you wear your top two shirt buttons unbuttoned.
Less Wear & Tear
Without an undershirt, your dress shirts will inevitably get deodorant stains. Although you can remove those stains withDeo-Go, it is less convenient than wearing an undershirt. This is especially true if you wear an undershirt with knitwear such as turtleneck sweaters, which can’t be laundered as simply as dress shirts.
Why Should You NOT Wear an Undershirt?
Inelegant
Historically, elegant men did not wear additional undergarments under their shirts. Many elegant men included in our list of some of the most stylish people in menswear prefer not to wear undershirts underneath their dress shirts, and you can’t deny their timeless class.
Restrictive
In terms of comfort, not wearing an undershirt should reduce the feeling of constriction that can come with wearing multiple similarly shaped layers.
Too Hot
Although some men choose to wear an undershirt regardless of the temperature, an extra layer of cloth against the skin in hot climates won’t let you feel cool against the natural breeze, and may even promote perspiration. Warm-weather clothing is also designed to be lightweight and breathable, so not only is an undershirt counter-productive, but it will also likely show through an open-weave shirt.
Layering Alternatives
If you wanted to add warmth to an outfit, there are many other elegant ways to do so. Heavy-weight shirts like flannel shirts are an excellent alternative to adding an undershirt layer; hats, scarves, and gloves can be added if needed, and who doesn’t love a classic overcoat? All of these are more elegant solutions to colder weather than an undershirt.
Regular Laundry
Some argue that it is more hygienic to wear undershirts, however, if you shower regularly and wash your dress shirts after they are worn, you should have no problem. After all, an undershirt won’t protect the inside of your shirt collars and cuffs, so it’s not advised to wear the same shirt for days in a row, anyway.
Our Original Undershirt Video Guide
As we mentioned in our video at the top of this guide, said video serves as an update to our original “Undershirt Guide” video, published in 2015. If you’re curious to see how our presentation style has evolved, you can watch the original video here!
Are you a wearer and supporter of undershirts, or do you prefer to go without? Let us know in the comments!
