Exactly one year ago the news came out that designer Karl Lagerfeld haddied. At that time he was the creative director of Chanel, Fendi and hisown brand: Karl Lagerfeld. One of the big questions on 19 February 2019was: what to do next? Who will take the artistic lead over the brands andhow do you follow someone like Kaiser Karl? After a career so big andfamous, who would want to try and fill those shoes, right? Yet one yearlater, and here is an update on how the brands have fared after the deathof Karl Lagerfeld.
A year later: Virginie Viard at Chanel
After Karl's death was confirmed by Chanel, among others, it was alsoimmediately announced that Virginie Viard would take on the creativeleadership of Chanel. Virginie Viard was by any means not a household name,but at that time Viard had been working closely to Lagerfeld over the lastthirty years of his life. That's why Alan Wertheimer, the co-owner ofChanel, entrusted the brand to the designer.
Viard is French and comes from a family of silk producers. She studiedtextiles and, after her training, goes to work as a costume designer fortheatre and film. Through a common friend, she is introduced to Karllagerfeld, which leads to a long-term friendship.
The Chanel Cruise 2019/20 collection is the first time we see Chanel a laVirginie. A more modern, contemporary Chanel woman appears on the catwalk.With the usual wink to the heritage of the French brand, but with acontemporary twist that raises the level of greed considerably. Pastelcolours, traditional black and white outfits show a pop of colour andvarious asymmetric and deconstructed silhouettes can be seen. It heralds anew era for Chanel. As always, the show takes place at the Grand Palais inParis, where shows under the direction of Lagerfeld have also always takenplace.
Soon after, the haute couture presentation of Chanel takes place, andViard's vision for the luxury brand is solidified. Classic Chanelsilhouettes are given a contemporary look. Little embellishment, fantasticsilhouettes and a hefty dose of elegance. It is a more subtle version ofChanel. A Chanel that is closer to the understated version of founderGabrielle 'Coco' Chanel. The sets of the shows are also significantly lessextravagant under Viard's direction compared to the creative leadership ofLagerfeld. Is this a new and improved Chanel? Who knows? In any case, Viardleaves her mark on the brand with respect.
Side note: Lagerfeld was of course also responsible foradvertising, marketing and various films at Chanel. Lagerfeld often pickedup a (film) camera himself and shot various commercials and advertisingimagery. This part of Lagerfeld's work for Chanel was picked up by EricPfrunder, who was appointed artistic director of fashion image two weeksafter Lagerfeld's death.
One year later: Silvia Fendi at Fendi
At the time of his death, Karl Lagerfeld headed Fendi for more thanfifty years. 54 years to be precise. The designer passed just three daysbefore the Fendi autumn-winter 2019/2020 show. At the end of the show,Silvia Venturini Fendi, the granddaughter of the fashion house's founder,takes a bow before the audience. It's a clear hint-drop for the future ofthe fashion house. Venturini Fendi makes the step from men's fashion andaccessory designer to overall creative director of the house, it turns outlater in the year.
Under the leadership of Venturini Fendi the first mixed-gender show forFendi takes place. Lagerfeld was not involved in the May 2019 China show,so the co-ed concept was clearly a move from Venturini Fendi. She hadtaken on the tasks of creative director for the show, but insists to thepress the new role is just temporary. In May 2019 not a word will be saidabout 'replacing Karl', according to CEO of Fendi Serge Brunschwig. Oneyear after the death of Lagerfeld, and Venturini Fendi is still referred toas Creative Director of Fendi in the press releases.
One year later: design director Hun Kim at Karl Lagerfeld
Last but not least, Karl's own brand: Karl Lagerfeld. Shortly after thedesigner's death, the media reported that Carine Roitfeld had beenappointed creative director. The brand went on the defensive fairly quicklyafter that that the reporting was incorrect. A decision about a possiblefollow-up of the name giver had not yet been made.
At that moment the brand reports to FashionUnited that design directorHun Kim retains the creative leadership. He had been working closely withthe designer for five years and was chosen by Lagerfeld as the leader ofthe design team. "Design director Hun Kim has worked very closely with Karlin recent years and Karl's absolute confidence in his incredible creativetalent," said the spokesperson at the time. In an interview with WWD onFebruary 18, 2020, top executive of the brand Pier Paolo Righi shares thatthe brand had always been prepared for the day when Karl died. Theinvestors were prepared for this in good time and the design team set up aclear vision of the brand by the designer they can continue. The archivewith some 60,000 sketches and photos made by Lagerfeld suggest that theteam will never be without inspiration.
Righi emphasizes in the interview that the brand Karl Lagerfeld alwaystells stories from the designer's life and about things that inspired him.Of architecture, music and places in the world. "We feel like an embassy ofKarl's creative mind-set and invite people to take part in it," says theCEO.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.NL,translated and edited for publication in English.
Main image: Left, Tiziana Fabi/AFP, right, Chanel Couture AW19,Catwalkpictures
