This year I asked you what you wanted to see more of. The resounding answer? Patternmaking! So, to kick off this year I wanted to dive deeper into Pattern Darts to help you understand one of the most valuable tools in your Patternmaking Arsenal.
Personally I don’t think that Darts get the attention they deserve. This concept is truly one of the most important to understand if you want to find success as a Fashion Designer.
Need a refresher on the basics? Check out Patternmaking Basics for Fashion Design.
Looking for a great Patternmaking book? This is the one I use & recommend!
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understanding the basic principles of darts and how they work
Darts are a powerful tool of the Patternmaker to make flat fabric into 3D shapes for the garment. Therefore, understanding how darts work is a vital part of manipulating them to fit your design.
What is a Dart?
A pattern dart is where excess fabric is taken in on the garment. Typically, a dart is recognized by its triangular shape on the pattern piece. However, the darting of the fabric can take on other shapes.
What does a Dart do?
The purpose of a dart is to create the shape to accommodate the curves, contour, and volume of the body or the design.
PATTERNMAKING PRINCIPLES
“Darting” excess fabric to create shape follows three main principles:
Dart Manipulation - How the location of a dart is changed within the pattern. A dart can be transferred to any other point around the pattern (in relation to the pivotal point - bust point) without changing the fit of the garment.
Adding Fullness - Applies when the excess fullness needed is greater than that of the dart. The slash and spread technique is used to add fullness where desired.
Contouring - Absorbing the dart excess into style lines to create a contoured silhouette.
DART MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES
When developing or editing a pattern, you will need to adjust the darts to fit your desired silhouette. This means that we need to transfer the shaping (darts) to our new desired style lines. In order to do so, you will need to follow two manipulation techniques:
Slash and Spread - The new design line is cut and spread open to create a new dart, while the original dart is closed. The working pattern is altered.
Pivot - The pivotal point (bust point or dart point) stays stationary. The pattern is traced and pivoted to close the old dart and create the new dart. The working pattern is not altered.
“A dart can be transferred to any other point around the pattern without changing the fit of the garment - as long as it is in relation to the Pivotal Point!”
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Use these methods to adjust the dart position on your pattern
For these examples we’ll be referencing a ladies standard bodice front Foundation Pattern. For more information on dart manipulation for other types of patterns, I highly recommend checking out this book - Patternmaking for Fashion Design.
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Identifying the Pivotal Point
One area that I see often confused is how to identify the Pivotal Point. While it may seem like the Pivotal Point should be at the dart tip, in reality it is at the Bust Point (for this example pattern). Therefore, when manipulating the dart of the front bodice we must first find the Bust Point or Pivotal Point.
After we have adjusted the dart, then we will have to re-establish the dart point away from the apex of the bust. It is recommended to offset the dart point 5/8” from the apex of the bust.
PRO TIP: Always remember to remove seam allowance before making changes to the pattern!
Dart Locations
The dart can be moved virtually anywhere around the Pivotal Point without changing the fit of the garment. Here are some common placements for the new dart location:
Slash & Spread Technique
To use the “Slash and Spread” Technique to adjust your dart position:
First choose where you would like your new dart to be located.
Draw a straight line from the new dart location to the Pivotal Point.
Cut this new line TO but not THROUGH the Pivotal Point (leave a small connection in the paper).
Drag the separated piece to close the original dart. Tape.
Mark 5/8” from the Pivotal Point in the center of your new dart. This is your new Dart Point.
Connect the new Dart Point to the Dart Legs.
Pivot technique
To use the “Pivot” Technique to adjust your dart position:
Place a pin through the paper at the Pivotal Point.
Decide on and mark where you want your new dart.
Trace from new dart position to original Dart Leg.
Pivot the pattern to close the original dart.
Trace from the closed Dart Leg (original) to where you marked the new dart on the pattern piece.
Remove the pattern on top.
Mark 5/8” from the Pivotal Point in the center of your new dart. This is your new Dart Point.
Connect the new Dart Point to the Dart Legs.
