PM Time Service - Vintage Pocket & Wrist Watches: "How To Wear" Guide (2024)

The Double Albert style pocket watch chain, like the Albert chain, is named after Prince Albert (1819-1861), husband of the UK's Queen Victoria. This style of chain features two longer "arms" and a shorter centralized "drop," to which a small object is attached, such as a charm, fob, or locket. The pocket watch is then attached to one arm of the chain, while the second arm is reserved for a large fob, such as a pocket knife, watch key, compass, cigar cutter, or fraternal symbol charm. Watches aren't usually attached to both arms of the Double Albert, except occasionally in dealer or display photos. Although available in different lengths, the chains are meant to be worn draped as opposed to pulled taught.


Note: although the watches in the following photos are shown half-out-of-pocket, this is merely to illustrate the attachment of the chain to the watch. Pocket watches should be worn entirely inside the pocket, ideally within a velvet or thin leather pouch for protection.

[click on any of the below photos for an enlarged view]

Spring Rings:

The spring ring is the most straightforward means of attaching the pocket watch chain to the wearer's garment. It is a more modern form of connection than the t-bar and has a diverse set of methods for use. Larger rings can be attached to a buttonhole (on a vest or shirt), can be clipped around the belt loop on jeans or pants or can be used to attach the chain to itself after being looped around the wearer's belt.

Some of the larger spring rings feature a "chain guard," which is a protrusion that prevents rotation of the ring in the buttonhole, or functions to keep different attachments separate on the ring. Smaller rings, typically found on lighter weight chains, can be attached around the thread behind a button. This method of attachment emulates a t-bar style of display with the additional security found with the spring ring clasp.

On the second photo example immediately below (where the spring ring is attached directly to the wearer's shirt), the "drop" is a slide on the main chain (which forms the two "arms"); in this circ*mstance, the arms are meant to be of equal length (symmetrical) to the two pockets.

Double Albert Chain with Spring Ring (Vest)

Double Albert Chain with Spring Ring (Shirt)

T-Bars:

The t-bar, made to be passed through a buttonhole, is the earliest form of connection between the pocket watch chain and the wearer's vest or shirt; it predated the spring ring and various clips used afterwards.

Fancy or ornate t-bars tend to be worn from the inside-out (to make visible and display the t-bars); standard t-bars are usually worn outside-in (so they aren't visible, as shown below).

Double Albert Chain with T-Bar (Vest)

Double Albert Chain with T-Bar (Shirt)

Lobster-Claw Clips & Belt Clips:

The lobster-claw style clip is a very modern form of pocket watch chain connection, as it was introduced well after the t-bar, spring ring, and other belt clips. This style of clip is most often used to attach the chain to a belt loop, as pictured in the first photo.

Belt clips are also used to attach pocket watch chains. The second photo here show a "pressure-fit" clip that was introduced in the middle of the 20th century; this will hang the chain similarly to the lobster claw finding.

Double Albert Chain with Lobster-Claw-Style Clip

Detail of Belt Clip

Pocket watch chains have also found use among women; during the 1990's, more ladies began to wear Double Albert (and "Single" Albert) style chains as necklaces, using fobs, lockets, and other jewelry items as pendants on the chain's ends. The chain is fastened around the wearer's neck by connecting the swivel clasp from one of the arms (normally used to attach a watch or fob) to another section of the chain. In general, chains worn in this manner should be at least 15" long for a short choker style, and 16" or longer for a looser necklace. Watches worn as pendants for this style should be of a small size, and are usually worn as much for decoration as for their use in keeping time.

Ladies' Uses (Spring Rings):

In the three photos below, the primary spring ring (which, for men's styles, would be used to connect the chain to the wearer's garment) is employed to attach a locket, while a small pocket knife has been attached to the chain's drop. As the pictures demonstrate, Double Albert chains used as necklaces may be worn short, long, or with an additional item (in this case, a small pocket watch) connected to one of the chain's swivel clasps as a pendant.

Double Albert Chain with Spring Ring (as woman's short necklace)

Double Albert Chain with Spring Ring (as woman's long necklace)

Double Albert Chain with Spring Ring (as woman's short necklace, with watch)

Ladies' Uses (T-Bars):

The three photos below show a Double Albert chain used as a necklace with the chain's t-bar (which, for men's styles, would be used to attach the chain to the wearer's garment) featured as its own component of the jewelry. As the pictures demonstrate, Double Albert chains used as necklaces may be worn short, long, or with an additional item (in this case, a small pocket watch) connected to one of the chain's swivel clasps as a pendant.

Double Albert Chain with T-Bar (as woman's short necklace)

Double Albert Chain with T-Bar (as woman's long necklace)

Double Albert Chain with T-Bar (as woman's short necklace, with watch)

PM Time Service - Vintage Pocket & Wrist Watches: "How To Wear" Guide (14)

Additional Notes:

Regardless of the method used to attach the chain to the wearer's vest, shirt, or pants, the bow of the pocket watch is attached to the chain with a small swivel clasp that allows the watch to rotate and keeps the chain from twisting. These swivels are findings that are traditionally used with pocket watches on most vintage pocket watch chains. As opposed to many of the more modern styles, these do not have any small latches to pull back but rather part of the oval "clip" section depresses into the finding, allowing you to slip in your pocket watch bow or fob lanyard. Once released, it has a small internal spring that closes the oval loop back up and prevents whatever is clipped from accidentally coming out without your intervention.

A pocket watch can be worn on either side of the body depending on the preference of the wearer. For instance, many right-handed wearers may have their pocket watch on the left side of the body; this allows for winding with the right hand while holding the watch with the left. However, a right-handed wearer may instead choose to keep the watch on the right for ease-of-use when pulling and returning the watch to a pocket as well.

As a rule of thumb, on an average-build male, we suggest Double Albert chains 20" or shorter for heights under 5'8", 18" to 30" for heights 5'8" to 6'2" and 24" or longer for heights over 6'2".

We are also in the process of collecting photos of pocket watch chain fashion and ideas, which can be easily viewed on the following Pinterest Board. Please let us know if you have any photos to contribute!

Related Products:

Vintage Mens Pocket Watches
Vintage Ladies Pocket Watches
Double Albert Pocket Watch Chains
Pocket Watch Chain Fobs

More "How To Wear" watch chain pages:

Straight Watch Chains
Albert Watch Chains
Ribbon-Style Watch Chains
Other Styles Of Watch Chains
More Ladies' Styles For Watch Chains

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PM Time Service - Vintage Pocket & Wrist Watches: "How To Wear" Guide (2024)

FAQs

How do you wear a vintage pocket watch? ›

The classic way to wear a pocket watch is at the end of a chain (called a fob) in your waistcoat pocket. The fob should pass through the buttonholes in the middle and terminate in a pocket on the other side, anchored by another object such as a cigar cutter.

How do you date a vintage pocket watch? ›

Remove or open the back cover from your watch and look for a number engraved into the movement; this is the serial number for your watch, and by using it, you can find the closest years it was made on these tables.

How do ladies wear pocket watches? ›

The traditional way to wear a pocket watch is sometimes known as the classic method. The pocket watch is placed in your waistcoat pocket and the chain is passed through a button hole. The end of the chain, or the fob, is tucked into your other waistcoat pocket.

Are old pocket watches worth anything? ›

Older pocket watches tend to be more valuable than their modern counterparts. When they were first introduced, they were often handmade with gold or silver. and inlaid with precious gemstones. Later on, stainless steel became more readily available.

How do you wear a vintage watch? ›

There is no right or wrong when it comes to styling a vintage timepiece. You might pair it down with your everyday wear just as easily as you may use it to complement an elevated look. And of course, a handsome sport chronometer is foolproof for finishing off any look with a strong blazer.

How often should you wind a vintage pocket watch? ›

To wind the watch turn the crown in the clockwise direction anywhere from 30-40 half turns until it stops. Push the crown back down into the normal operating position. Winding and setting of the time should be done daily. However, do not over wind, as this can damage the spring mechanism.

How do you wear a pocket watch everyday? ›

We suggest using the pocket opposite your dominant hand to make checking the time easier. If you're wearing a button-down dress shirt, you can also loop the chain through one of the lower buttons on your shirt. And if your pocket watch is small enough, use the small pocket inside your pocket to hold your timepiece.

How to tell if a pocket watch is valuable? ›

Many of the higher value pocket watches have complex movements, for instance, a centre seconds hand, stop-start feature, moon phases, date day dials, etc. The more complexities in a pocket watch then the more valuable especially if it all functions and it is possibly married to an expensive gold or silver case.

How can you tell how old a vintage watch is? ›

How do I know how old my antique watch is? To determine the age of your watch, you will need to open your watch and find the serial number on the watch's movement. This crucial figure will indicate the manufacture date.

What is the difference between a pocket watch and a wrist watch? ›

The fact that a pocket watch isn't attached to you as securely as a wristwatch it is innately more at risk of damage, couple this with the fact pocket watches are generally more fragile and the wristwatch clinches this round.

Does anyone wear pocket watches anymore? ›

Today, pocket watches are a special category in the world of watchmaking. Although these watches are often considered collectible items or vintage fashion pieces, their daily use is relatively rare.

Can you wear a pocket watch without a vest? ›

With jeans: Pocket watches need not be relegated to fancy events only. If you won't be wearing a vest or jacket, simply use a belt bar to attach your pocket watch to a belt loop, and keep the watch in your jeans pocket.

How were pocket watches worn? ›

Pocket watches generally have an attached chain to allow them to be secured to a waistcoat, lapel, or belt loop, and to prevent them from being dropped. Watches were also mounted on a short leather strap or fob, when a long chain would have been cumbersome or likely to catch on things.

How do old pocket watches run? ›

The oldest pocket watches are equipped with hand-wound movements. The energy necessary for the operation of the watch is provided by a mainspring which must be contracted by turning a crown. This is called manual winding, which must be carried out at a varying frequency depending on the watch model.

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