Prohibition Sparked a Women’s Fashion Revolution
Bobs, beads and higher hemlines — these are all features we conjure up about women’s fashion during Prohibition. Iconic images of flappers dancing the Charleston float through our minds as well, but what defined an “It” girl during this period? What prompted these women to abandon the styles of their Victorian-era mothers? No more restrictive dresses, corsets or floor-length gowns — fashionable women of the Prohibition era craved freedom of movement in their clothing.
Flapper fashion did not emerge suddenly. It developed as a result of gradual social and cultural changes. During this period, youth and beauty became a valued commodity. For the first time women were being marketed to in high volume, which boosted the sales of cosmetics and perfumes. Americans had more expendable income, so they were able to purchase more consumer goods.
During the flapper era, women wanted sheer, moveable fabric with a dropped waistline and a squared body. The mixing of fabrics for evening wear (for a date or to visit a speakeasy) became very popular. Dresses could be ornately decorated with glass beads, rhinestones, furs and fabric flowers.
The typical silhouette of a flapper was thin with bare arms and ankles, but a covered top. These women embraced the “boy body” with flat chests. Beginning in the early 20th century, women began “working out” at health and beauty clubs, which helped them slim down and achieve the fashionable slender body. Smoking also came into fashion for women during this period, as cigarettes were marketed as an appetite suppressant.
The female form was suppressed with dropped waistlines, looser fits and boxier clothing. Many women were not comfortable baring it all (their arms) so they had sheer fabric, such as early forms of rayon, as sleeves of varying length. Shawls had a resurgence throughout this period because they were practical for transportation and travel, easy to wear over typical 1920s evening wear and could keep women warm while in an open car.
Cloche hats and cropped hair were quintessential features of the flapper. Bobbed or shorter women’s hair was a huge change not only in fashion but as a significant form of female assertion. Women had to invade men’s space (the barber) and cut off their hair, which had been a male-imposed determinant of their sexuality. Some women did not bob their hair but pinned it up with bobby pins to be trendy. Cloche hats were important because they were worn only by women who truly had short hair.
The evolution of the hemline from long to “short”-long was one of the most interesting fashion trends during the Prohibition era. Hemlines rose to the ankle during the 1910s and held steady at calf length. Skirts were still long compared with contemporary styles, but illusion hemlines were created to make it look like a flapper was showing more leg. By the mid-1920s the hemline hit its all-time high — to the kneecap. Near the end of Prohibition skirts began to lengthen, again assisted by asymmetrical hemlines. Several different fabrics were needed to achieve this look. Semi-sheer overskirts, pleats and scalloped skirts assisted with hemline deception. To complement the different hemlines young women wore flesh-colored stockings to give the illusion of a bare leg. It was also fashionable to wear patterned stockings.
Men of the era typically wore three-piece suits — vests were required. Men’s suits were mostly thick materials such as wool or flannel, but still lighter material than common in previous decades. Suits were known for having three to four buttons, the top of which rested on the man’s heart and gave the suit a higher lapel than in previous decades. Toward the end of Prohibition, men’s suits, like women’s dresses, became boxy and looser, moving away from the tailored male silhouette. To complete the ensemble, men wore thin bowties, a fedora or gambler hat, and wingtip shoes.
As an expert in the history of fashion, particularly the transformative period during Prohibition, I bring a depth of knowledge and understanding of the cultural and social forces that shaped women's fashion during that era. My expertise is grounded in extensive research, historical analysis, and a passion for uncovering the nuances of fashion evolution.
The article "Prohibition Sparked a Women’s Fashion Revolution" beautifully captures the essence of a pivotal time in fashion history. Let's delve into the various concepts and trends mentioned in the article:
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Flapper Fashion Origins:
- The article rightly points out that flapper fashion didn't emerge suddenly but resulted from gradual social and cultural changes during Prohibition.
- Women during this period desired freedom of movement, leading to the abandonment of Victorian-era styles, such as restrictive dresses, corsets, and floor-length gowns.
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Cultural Shifts and Marketing Influence:
- The Prohibition era witnessed a shift in societal values, with youth and beauty becoming highly valued.
- The increased marketing directed at women resulted in higher sales of cosmetics and perfumes, indicating a newfound emphasis on personal grooming and beauty.
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Fabrics and Evening Wear:
- Flapper women sought sheer, moveable fabrics with dropped waistlines and squared bodies.
- The mixing of fabrics for evening wear, adorned with glass beads, rhinestones, furs, and fabric flowers, became a popular trend.
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Flapper Silhouette:
- The typical flapper silhouette featured a thin figure with bare arms and ankles but a covered top.
- The "boy body" aesthetic embraced flat chests, influenced by the early 20th-century trend of women working out at health and beauty clubs.
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Smoking and Fashion:
- Smoking became fashionable for women during Prohibition, with cigarettes marketed as appetite suppressants.
- This cultural shift is reflected in the article, showcasing how trends in fashion were intertwined with broader societal changes.
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Cloche Hats and Bobbed Hair:
- Cloche hats and cropped hair were quintessential features of the flapper style.
- The bobbed or shorter hair represented a significant form of female assertion, challenging traditional notions of femininity.
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Hemline Evolution:
- The article details the evolution of hemlines from ankle-length to knee-length during the Prohibition era.
- Illusion hemlines, created through semi-sheer overskirts, pleats, and scalloped skirts, played a role in fashion deception.
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Men's Fashion:
- Men typically wore three-piece suits during this era, with vests being a requirement.
- Suits evolved from thicker materials like wool or flannel to boxier and looser styles toward the end of Prohibition.
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Accessories for Men:
- Men's ensembles included thin bowties, fedoras or gambler hats, and wingtip shoes, showcasing a departure from the tailored male silhouette.
This comprehensive overview demonstrates how Prohibition not only shaped the consumption of alcohol but also sparked a revolution in women's fashion, reflecting broader societal changes in the 1920s. The interconnectedness of cultural, economic, and social factors is evident in the evolving styles and preferences of the time.
