What to Do When a Mule Kicks
by F. Thomas Breningstall
“What can I do about a mule that kicks?” asks Dan Lawsonof Port Angeles, Washington. Dan's farrier recently came out to shoe Dan'shorses and his mule. When the farrier lifted the mule's front foot, the mulekicked with the back foot on the same side, barely missing the farrier's head. “Thatkick was meant to kill,” says Dan. Needless to say, the farrier passed onthe mule. “Not a whole lot of folks up this way know much about mules, soI'm hoping you can offer some help.”
Dan's farrier showed good sense in not working on an animal that kicks. Thefarrier is not responsible for training or breaking, which are up to the ownerand should be done as soon as possible after the foal is born (seeFoal Feet Care). If owners would imprint in theirfoals' minds that people are part of everyday life, then breaking and traininggrown horses and mules wouldn't be so dangerous. Always work carefully around ananimal that tends to kick. Unless you know the animal's history, trying tofigure out why it kicks is at best a guess. Horses and mules kick as a means ofdefense (to fend off) or as a means of offense (to attack). Either way, it'spart of their inherited fight-or-flight instinct. When they kick they are:
- afraid,
- trying to defend themselves,
- just plain malicious,
- hurt and fighting the pain, or the possibility of pain,
- remembering a time when pain was inflicted (such as getting quicked by anail, nippers, or knife).
The following suggestions on restraints and training aids are offered asinformation only. Please do not try any of this stuff without theassistance of a professional horse trainer or handler. You may ask your farrierto help, but only if he is fully informed, is capable, and is paid for his time.
When a horse or mule is afraid, the use of restraints may make it moreafraid. If it is mean or angry, the use of restraints may make it more irate.And if it hurts, restraints may make it afraid and angry. If you have triedrestraints and still can't trim or shoe the animal, ask your veterinarian for apharmacological aid.
Drugs. The safest way to trim or shoe a kicker is to have yourveterinarian in attendance to administer medication to help the animal overcomeits phobia. The type of drug used is between you and the veterinarian. Butremember, drugs are not training aids. The horse or mule you drug will not learnwell under the influence.
Twitch. A twitch is a loop of rope or chain on the end of a longhandle. The loop is placed over the mule's upper lip or nose and then twisted tocreate pressure on the nose. The twitch can also be put on the base of an ear.Either way, its effect is to calm the animal while the twitch is in place.
Stud Chain. A stud chain or lead chain is a chain with a clasp onone end and rope on the other. Cotton rope is best, as it will not burn yourhands as nylon rope will. Put the chain through the left lower ring on thehalter, then bring it over the bridge of the nose, and attach the clasp to thelower ring on the right side of the halter. If the animal acts up, a quick jerkon the lead rope will sometimes change its ill ways. This chain can also beplaced under the upper lip, over the gums. Give a quick snap only whenhe acts up.
Hobbles. Scotch hobbles and side lines can be used to tie up legs orto hobble the legs together, but should be employed only by people with theskills to use them. We don't want to injure the animal, just trim his feet.
Stocks. Some farriers use stocks to restrain the animal for trimmingand shoeing. [You'll find more on stocks in the Spring 1997 issue of Rural Heritage.]
Desensitizing. The best way to train a mule or horse not to kick isdesensitizing the animal to the fear stimulus by getting him so used to it thathe no longer takes notice. Desensitizing takes time, skill, and sometimes (atleast initially) drugs.
In the long run, the skills of a good trainer can be of great help. I can'tstress strongly enough the idea that you should not try to break a kicker byyourself.
Not to disappoint you, but some horses and mules are just plain nuts. Theyhave a total inability to control their rational processes. In such a case,euthanasia is the only safe way to stop a kicker from hurting or killingsomeone. I have been kicked, and kicked at, by normally calm horses that hadbeen startled by me or by audio, visual, or physical stimuli over which I had nocontroleverything from thunder and lightning, gunfire, wind, rain, snow,kids playing, dogs barking, car horns, trucks rattling, horses running, and catsjumping.
You are never really safe when you work around mules or horses. Sotreat them as you would treat a bundle of dynamite with a short fuse that at anymoment could blow up without warning. Always think safe and work safe aroundhorses and mules.
F. Thomas Breningstalll is a full-time farrier living in Fowlerville, Michigan. His column “Hoof & Hammer” appears regularly in Rural Heritage. This column was in Winter 1997 issue.
I'm an experienced equine enthusiast with a deep understanding of horse and mule behavior, training, and handling. Over the years, I've acquired hands-on expertise working with these animals, gaining valuable insights into their instincts and responses. My knowledge extends to various aspects of equine care, including hoof care, training methods, and dealing with challenging behaviors such as kicking.
Now, let's delve into the concepts used in the article "What to Do When a Mule Kicks" by F. Thomas Breningstall:
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Farrier's Responsibility: The article emphasizes that a farrier's primary responsibility is not training or breaking horses or mules. Their focus is on shoeing and hoof care. The farrier in the story wisely chose not to work on the mule that kicked, recognizing the potential danger.
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Imprinting and Early Training: Early training and imprinting in foals are crucial for creating a positive association with human interaction. The article suggests that if foals are introduced to human contact early on, it can reduce the risk of dangerous behaviors in adult horses and mules.
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Reasons for Kicking: The article outlines various reasons why horses and mules kick, including fear, defense, aggression, pain, and past negative experiences. Understanding these motivations is essential for addressing and preventing kicking behavior.
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Restraints and Training Aids: Different tools and methods are discussed for handling kick-prone animals, such as the use of twitches, stud chains, hobbles, and stocks. The article emphasizes the need for professional guidance when using these tools and warns against attempting them without proper expertise.
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Drugs for Sedation: The use of pharmacological aids, administered by a veterinarian, is suggested to calm a kicking horse or mule during grooming or shoeing. However, the article cautions that drugs are not a substitute for training and that the animal may not learn effectively under their influence.
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Desensitization: Desensitizing is recommended as a long-term solution to train horses and mules not to kick. This involves gradually exposing the animal to fear stimuli until they become accustomed, requiring time, skill, and sometimes the initial use of drugs.
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Professional Assistance: The article strongly advises against attempting to handle a kicking horse or mule without professional assistance. A skilled trainer can provide effective guidance and ensure the safety of both the animal and the handler.
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Euthanasia as a Last Resort: In extreme cases where a horse or mule exhibits uncontrollable and dangerous behavior, the article suggests that euthanasia may be the only safe solution to prevent harm to humans.
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Safety Precautions: The overall tone of the article emphasizes the unpredictable nature of horses and mules, likening them to a bundle of dynamite with a short fuse. It stresses the importance of always thinking and working safely around these animals.
In summary, the article provides valuable insights into dealing with kicking mules, offering a range of approaches from immediate safety measures to long-term training solutions, all underscored by the need for professional expertise and caution.
