Saddle Shoes were created in the 1900s by the American firm AG Spalding, although their time of greatest success was the 50s. Originally, they were designed as men's sport shoes, but soon they became essential both for men and women, for young and not so young, athletes or non-athletes: Saddle Shoes became part of fashion history.
Saddle shoes are named after the piece of leather that is superimposed on the instep and that has the shape of a saddle. This piece contrasts in colour with the rest of the shoe, the toe box and the quarters, forming an easily identifiable combination. Saddle shoes are based on classic Oxford shoes, although sometimes they are also presented with a Derby last. Comfortable and colourful, the most successful combinations throughout history have been black and white or brown and white.
Today, they are an icon of vintage style, and one of the favourite shoes of swing dancers around the world, especially Collegiate Shag lovers.
Let us explore how saddle shoes evolved over the years.
Saddles were initially sport shoes designed for men. Golfers in particular liked their two-tone colour scheme and incorporated them into their uniforms beginning of 1910 and well into the 1920s and 1930s. The two-tone combination also began to be used in Oxfords with wingtip and loafers. And the white colour was replaced by an off-white that better disguises dirt.
Women were captivated by the simplicity of the Saddles' design and adopted them even more than men. They liked the contrast of black and white. Pure white soles were also a must, even though they needed frequent cleaning and bleaching.
The heels were kept very low to preserve ease of walking or running. Girls often wore them in gym class. Most clothing catalogues of those years included Saddle shoes for women and girls alike. A more feminine heel, such as the Cuban heel, was added to some women's Oxford shoes, fusing the more common walking shoe and the sporty pattern of the Saddle.
The 1930s were marked by the Great Depression. Materials were cheapened to keep Saddles affordable, using canvas instead of leather. Rough crepe rubber was the most widely used type of sole because it was durable, slip resistant, cushioned the foot well, and was less expensive to manufacture.
In the mid-1930s, the first shoes that did not have the colour combination 'brown and white' or 'black and white' appeared. Blue and white shoes became the new fashion. The lighter shades of brown also made them more feminine and more combinable with summer fabrics. The soles were generally of natural rubber colour, which also looked better with lighter colours. Only high-heeled Oxford shoes had leather soles instead of rubber. Saddles were still primarily summer shoes, especially when they were made with canvas.
At the end of the 1930s, the economic crisis subsided and factories returned to making leather shoes. Moving away from the colour scheme that women used, men's shoes now came in dark tones on dark tones. Tan on dark brown, black on black, blue on black and black on grey were some of the new options.
It was in the 1940s when Saddle shoes really entered popular culture. The men wore two-toned shoes with business attire and the women with formal dresses and tailored suits. They were no longer just a sporty look. However, it was the teenagers who adopted the Saddles as their signature shoes. After having used them as children, the teenagers found in the Saddles a more youthful style than that of most women's shoes of the time, such as wedges or peep toes.
With World War II underway in the early 1940s, the “make do and mend” mentality was fully applied to footwear. And the trend among teens was to make new Saddle shoes look old, purposely staining them until they looked worn.
Teenagers in the 1950s started the fashion of wearing Saddle shoes with socks. These were almost always black and white Saddle shoes with natural or black rubber soles. The ‘dirty shoes’ trend ended, and red rubber soles and spotless Saddle shoes were all the rage. The girls spent an hour every day cleaning and polishing their shoes.
In high school, all the girls, and now the boys, wore Saddle shoes. These teens were called "Bobby-soxers" because they always wore white socks with their saddles. Bobby socks were generally ankle-length, had a lace or a bow on top, and had to be folded correctly, in perfect symmetry with each other.
Housewives also loved Saddle shoes. Comfortable to wear at home, but too casual to be “appropriate,” they traded them for high heels before their husbands got home. It was a secret ritual that women performed on a daily basis, but unknown to their husbands.
As the 1950s progressed, so did the evolution of the Saddles. If in the 20s and 30s the Saddle instep was placed on Oxford-type shoes, in the 50s it was placed on all kinds of footwear: flats, loafers, high heels ... The Saddle instep was everywhere, and in all colours and materials. Saddle shoes became the iconic style of the 50s, everyone wore them!
In the mid-1950s, the Saddle Oxford "Bubble" became popular for a few years. They were a thinner version of the Saddle and often had a buckle at the back of the heel. The soles were thinner and the heels were low. They also received the name of "Ivy League" or "Ivy Style", due to their popularity among university students.
Girls, boys, and teens continued to wear the Saddles as their daily uniform. Many schools made the Saddles part of their dress code well into the 1990s. Black soles were replaced by white soles in the early 1960s, and the 'black on black' combination became the preferred school style.
But the 1960s would be the last decade in which adults were seen wearing Saddle shoes. Why the sudden change? The rebellion against old school values and styles had a lot to do with it. The mod generation embraced the two-colour combination, but not Saddle shoes. By now they were too old, they had too much history and they were too 'childish' for an adult generation.
Saddle shoes have made a strong comeback fuelled by the growth of Swing and the taste for vintage fashion.
Captivated by their style and comfort, Madame Dynamite has created its own version of the Saddle Shoes, the new Kid Dynamite, combining the brand's most iconic colours: Honey, Ginger, Cherry, Mint, Navy Blue, ... and white.
100% leather shoes with a leather sole, which provide all the comfort of your favourite dance shoes and all the style of a universal footwear classic.Have a look at them!
Greetings, enthusiasts of classic footwear and vintage fashion. I am deeply immersed in the world of fashion history, particularly the evolution of iconic shoe styles, and my wealth of knowledge extends to the intricacies of the timeless Saddle Shoes. Allow me to share my expertise and guide you through the fascinating journey of Saddle Shoes, providing you with a comprehensive understanding of their origins, popularity, and evolution over the years.
Origin and Design: Saddle Shoes made their debut in the early 1900s, courtesy of the American firm AG Spalding. While initially conceived as men's sport shoes, they quickly transcended gender and age boundaries, becoming an integral part of fashion history. The name "Saddle Shoes" is derived from the distinctive piece of leather superimposed on the instep, resembling a saddle. This contrasting piece, often in black and white or brown and white, forms a recognizable combination.
Evolution in Sports and Fashion: Originally favored by male golfers in the early 1910s, the two-tone color scheme of Saddle Shoes gained popularity and found its way into the uniforms of athletes. Women were captivated by the simplicity of the design, adopting them more enthusiastically than men. The 1930s saw the impact of the Great Depression, leading to cost-saving measures such as the use of canvas instead of leather. Saddle Shoes became synonymous with summer footwear, especially when crafted with canvas.
1940s: Popularization and WWII Trends: The 1940s marked the entry of Saddle Shoes into popular culture. Men and women incorporated them into business attire and formal dresses. Teenagers, in particular, embraced Saddle Shoes as their signature style. With World War II underway, a "make do and mend" mentality influenced teens to purposely stain their new Saddle Shoes to achieve a worn look.
1950s: The Peak of Saddle Shoes: The 1950s witnessed the zenith of Saddle Shoes' popularity, especially among teenagers known as "Bobby-soxers." The iconic black and white combination with spotless soles became a fashion trend. The shoes were a daily uniform for girls and boys in high schools, and even housewives appreciated their comfort for daily wear at home.
Mid-1950s: Further Evolution and Variations: During the mid-1950s, the Saddle Oxford "Bubble" emerged as a thinner version with low heels and sometimes a buckle at the back. This style, also known as "Ivy League" or "Ivy Style," gained popularity among university students.
1960s: The Decline and Cultural Shift: The 1960s marked the decline of Saddle Shoes among adults. The rebellious mod generation embraced the two-color combination but distanced themselves from Saddle Shoes, considering them too old-fashioned and 'childish' for their taste.
Revival and Contemporary Adaptations: In recent times, Saddle Shoes have experienced a resurgence, fueled by the growth of Swing dance and a renewed appreciation for vintage fashion. Brands like Madame Dynamite have contributed to this revival by creating modern versions of Saddle Shoes, such as the Kid Dynamite, combining comfort and style with 100% leather construction.
In conclusion, Saddle Shoes have left an indelible mark on the fashion landscape, evolving from sporty beginnings to iconic symbols of vintage style. Their enduring appeal is a testament to their comfort, distinct design, and cultural significance. Explore the timeless charm of Saddle Shoes and witness their resurgence in the contemporary fashion scene.
