Using computer aided design (CAD) and computer aided manufacture (CAM) in a manufacturing setting
There are three terms used to describe the scale of production in relation to garment production:
- prototype and one-off production
- batch production
- mass production
Prototypes and one-off production
Bespoke, job production or made-to-measure garments can be made for a client - such as wedding dresses or couture outfits. These will be original garments and can be produced to a very high quality; however, they can be very expensive to make and highly skilled workers will be needed.
Batch production
Batch production is where many items of the same product are produced - such as swimwear and fashionwear. A range of specific and identical products can be produced, including fashion and seasonal items which are regularly changed, but time is lost when retooling, and skilled workers are needed. When a product is made in a batch, it is often far cheaper per product than making just one.
Mass production
Mass-produced products are manufactured in large volumes, and are often made by automated machinery with assembly line workers used to fit parts together or to add standard components, such as buttons or zips. Examples of mass production for textiles are plain T-shirts, school shirts and socks. Products are kept at a low cost as large amounts are made and bulk materials are cheaper to buy. There is, however, a large cost in setting up such an assembly line. Continuous production is used to make high numbers of identical products. Factories run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, with high levels of automation.
Manufacturing systems
Line production
Line production is used in industry when garments are being sewn in large batches. As the name suggests, the work flows in a straight line through a series of workstations, each of which is synchronised to the next by ensuring the time spent at each station is exactly the same - this is called line balancing. At the end of the line, one garment will have been fully assembled.
Each machinist performs exactly the same task over and over again, which can lead to mistakes being made.
Illustration of line productionProgressive bundle
Progressive bundle is similar to line production in that each machinist performs the same task; however, this could take place anywhere in the factory. Teams of operators are formed and the work is divided between them, making it a flexible system as they are able to start and stop. Usually time is wasted as the machinists have to stop and leave their workspace to look for their next bundle, making it an ineffective practice. It is used commonly in the fashion industry and often associated with ‘piece pay’ - the machinist is paid a fixed amount for each unit made regardless of time.
Cell production
Cell production involves a number of machinists working together in ‘cells’. Each team or ‘cell’ is responsible for a significant part of a finished garment, or sometimes the whole garment, including quality control (QC) checks. Rather than each person carrying out only one very specific task, team members are skilled at a number of tasks, allowing for job rotation. As they are highly skilled, they tend to earn more.
Illustration of cell productionComputer aided design (CAD) and computer aided manufacture (CAM)
Technological advancements mean most clothing and textile manufacturing is controlled by computers. An example could be a garment designed in the UK with the fibre grown in America and then woven into a fabric in China, dyed in India and then the garment itself assembled in Indonesia.
Computer aided design (CAD)
Designers use computer aided design (CAD) programs to illustrate their designs:
- many can be displayed in 3D
- CAD enables designers to easily manipulate and change their designs
- popular designs can be revisited with little effort
- designs can be sent electronically to manufacturers allowing garments to be made without delay
- highly detailed fabric prints have emerged in recent years because of CAD design programs
- CAD programs are used to pattern grade and to lay plan, saving on both time and material wastage.
Examples of CAD programs include Adobe Illustrator, AutoCAD or CorelDraw.
Computer aided manufacture (CAM)
Computers now control much of manufacturing processes, although the textile industry still requires human machinists to sew and assemble garments.
Digital and roller printing, laser cutters, and embroidery machines can now be fully automated and controlled by computer aided manufacture (CAM):
- purchase of machines and set-up costs are high
- output increases rapidly
- economies of scale and a reduction in price to the consumer are produced
