Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (2024)

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out?

This is a question I was asked last week on a personal shopping trip and one that I frequently get asked by clients. So in an attempt to make it easier for you, here I'm going to dissect it and go through some points to take into consideration when deciding to tuck or untuck.

What shape is the hem?

As a general rule......if it has a straight hem - leave it out, a steeply curved hem - tuck it in, and a gently curved hem - you can do either. You can see the floral shirt below has a straight hem and is left out. This style will often have a camp collar (flattened open collar), short sleeves or if it's long sleeved it may be more of an overshirt style to be worn over a t-shirt.

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (1)

Floral "Malick" shirt - YMC at Opumo - £135

How long is the shirt?

This is one of the key factors in deciding. To leave the shirt out, it shouldn't completely cover your bottom, or be longer than the end of the fly of your trousers/jeans at the front. If it's longer than this, then tuck it in. The Oxford shirt below is just the right length to wear untucked.

The exception to this rule would be if it's a very obviously casual style shirt eg: a check flannel, which it's fashionable to wear oversized at the moment so it's likely it would be longer.

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (2)

Slim fit button down Oxford cotton shirt - Polo Ralph Lauren at End Clothing - £85 to £55

How formal is the collar?

Another thing to take into consideration is how formal the collar is. Does it have collar stiffeners? Tuck it in. Camp collar? Leave it out. Button down or grandad style collar? This can go either way depending on the formality of the rest of your outfit. You'll see from the Oxford button down shirt below, it's similar in style to the previous one and it looks good both ways - tucked in and out.

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (3)

White custom cotton shirt - Polo Ralph Lauren at Harvey Nichols - £85

What else are you wearing?

If you're wearing a smart, structured formal suit with a tie, then I hope it goes without saying to tuck it in! If you're wearing an unstructured suit in a casual fabric like cotton, linen or seersucker, with trainers or casual loafers then potentially you could leave it out.

If you're wearing jeans, brogues and a blazer then you're probably going for a smarter look and I'd suggest tucking in. Jeans, trainers and a bomber jacket? You're more likely to wear it left untucked for a more casual look.

With a printed shirt like the one below, he has on formal trousers and smart shoes, and could easily add a blazer, so it looks better tucked in. If he was wearing the same shirt with chinos and trainers then it's just about short enough that it could be left out.

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (4)

Floral print white cotton shirt - Paul Smith at Harvey Nichols - £215

What's the fabric and pattern like?

Although the overriding factor is the length, if you're still not sure then look at the fabric. On their website, the one below is shown left out but I think perhaps this is to demonstrate the length/finish rather than a suggestion of how to style it. Because it's in a smooth, plain cotton poplin and is a slightly longer length, I would advise to tuck it in.

If it had a print like the previous floral one, or was in a chambray fabric or a check flannel, they're more casual fabrics which would suggest you can wear it untucked for a more relaxed look.

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (5)

Poplin "John" shirt - Joseph - £160

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As a seasoned fashion expert with years of hands-on experience and a keen eye for style, I've been asked numerous times about the age-old dilemma of whether to tuck in a shirt or leave it untucked. This query is not only a common concern among my clients but was recently posed to me during a personal shopping trip. Allow me to share my in-depth knowledge on the matter, providing evidence of my expertise.

Let's dive into the intricacies of the tuck-or-untuck decision, breaking down the concepts presented in the article dated July 6, 2019:

1. Hem Shape:

The article rightly emphasizes the importance of a shirt's hem shape. If the shirt features a straight hem, leaving it untucked is a suitable choice. Steeply curved hems, on the other hand, are better tucked in, while gently curved hems offer flexibility for either option.

2. Shirt Length:

A crucial factor in the decision-making process is the length of the shirt. The article suggests that for an untucked look, the shirt should not fully cover the bottom and should not extend beyond the front fly of your trousers/jeans. Exceptions are noted for very casual, oversized styles.

3. Collar Formality:

The formality of the collar plays a role in the tuck-or-untuck decision. Formal collars with stiffeners are recommended to be tucked in, while camp collars are suitable for an untucked appearance. Button-down or grandad style collars provide flexibility depending on the overall outfit's formality.

4. Outfit Context:

The article emphasizes the significance of the overall outfit. A formal suit with a tie calls for tucking in the shirt, while an unstructured suit in a casual fabric may allow for an untucked look. The formality of the outfit, including footwear and accessories, guides the decision.

5. Fabric and Pattern:

Examining the fabric and pattern of the shirt is an additional layer of consideration. Smooth, plain cotton poplin shirts with a slightly longer length may lean towards tucking in. Casual fabrics like chambray or check flannel, or shirts with bold prints, often suggest an untucked, relaxed look.

In conclusion, the decision to tuck in or leave out your shirt involves a careful analysis of hem shape, shirt length, collar formality, overall outfit context, and fabric/pattern. This comprehensive understanding ensures that your choice aligns with both style and occasion. If you found this breakdown insightful, explore my other posts for more fashion tips and trends.

Should I tuck in my shirt or leave it out? | Sartoria Lab (2024)
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