Among formal tuxedo accessories, the cumme*rbund isn’t really the most popular. In fact, if there is just one poorly understood and under appreciated formal accessory in today’s formal climate, it’s the cumme*rbund. Its popularity tends to wax and wane like the moon, but the essential function it provides to a proper Black Tie ensemble is steadfast. So why isn’t it always popular? I have three theories.
– A lot of people don’t know what a cumme*rbund is really for and why it’s important.
– Vests are so popular that poorly understood cumme*rbunds don’t compete well.
– Matadors.
So today we’re going to take a look at cumme*rbunds, their history, their function, and why they’re important for a finished formal look – All with 5 facts about cumme*rbunds that every gent should know.
1.) The Correct Spelling
The correct spelling is actually “cumme*rbund” not “Cumberbund. While Merriam-Webster Dictionary does list “Cumberbund” as an alternate spelling, this is purely because of how often it is misspelled and pronounced. Such is the way that language develops. But for now, and originally, “cumme*rbund” is the correct spelling.
2.) Origins
British East India Company, Circa 1850’s
The cumme*rbund began in India around 1850, not as formal wear necessarily, but as dining wear for British military personnel stationed there. The folks from India often wore sashes around their waist called kamarbands, kamar meaning ‘waist.’ For formal dinners, the British army customarily wore waistcoats (vests) under their jackets. But in no small part due to the heat in India, the British were very keen to find a cooler dining uniform and quickly adopted the sash for their dining wear waist covering.
Some years later the tuxedo made its debut in Tuxedo Park, New York, but it was first worn as white tie without the tails. As the tuxedo began to come into its own, accessories meant specifically for tuxedos began to surface. The black bow tie became the norm, as did a black waistcoat. As this new “Black Tie” dress code developed, the aristocracy borrowed a page from the British military’s book and added black cumme*rbunds as an appropriate waist covering. They have remained a staple in men’s formal wear ever since.
3.) The Purpose
The modern purpose of the cumme*rbund is to cover the waist. This is an important practice for a number of reasons. Black Tie attire is so timeless due to the staying power of the principles on which it is founded. One of these guiding principles is that the working parts of one’s ensemble must be covered or dressed. Buttons have satin facing. Shirt buttons are replaced by studs and cuff links. Even the outer seams of formal trousers are faced with a satin stripe. And so it is also important to cover the waistband where awkward shirt bunching often occurs.
4.) How to Wear One
The Proper Way to Wear a cumme*rbund
This may seem like a no-brainer, but there actually is a right way and a wrong way. cumme*rbunds are meant to be worn with the pleats facing upward. Downward facing pleats are actually incorrect. We’ll get to why in a second. Also, because cumme*rbunds are waist coverings, they should be worn at the natural waist. This means that the trousers should be worn around the level of the navel, and half the cumme*rbund should cover the shirt, and the other half the trousers. Wearing a cumme*rbund too high or too low can ruin the aesthetic effect. Lastly, and possibly this goes without saying, a cumme*rbund should always be paired with a bow tie, preferably one in a matching fabric.
5.) The Many Benefits
Heather Grey Twilight Tuxedo
I feel that if more people were aware of the benefits a cumme*rbund offers, more people would wear one. So here I’m just going to list them out.
1.) Crumb Catchers – As the British Military first learned, the upward facing pleats served as excellent crumb catchers. In fact, that is still a nickname for the accessory even today.
2.) Ticket Holders – When the aristocracy adopted cumme*rbunds, they were often used to hold ticket stubs to the symphony or opera, keeping a gentleman from having to rummage through his pockets for them.
3.) Cooler – Back to their origin, they were and remain cooler waist covering options than vests.
4.) Slimming – Generally when worn correctly, cumme*rbunds tend to make men look taller with a thinner waist.
5.) Color Moderation – It’s a popular trend for modern day weddings and proms for men to wear the colors of their female counterparts, to look like a matching set. The problem then becomes having a decidedly feminine color as the focal point of the man’s ensemble. With a vest the color swatch is large and takes up most of the torso. With a cumme*rbund the color swatch stays smaller and therefore more understated.
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While Black Tie standards require a black cumme*rbund, there are many modern tuxedo interpretations that leave the question of color entirely to the wearer. Just like vests, cumme*rbunds come in a wide variety of both colors and styles. Check out these examples below:
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Hopefully this has cleared up some of the fog around these formerly enigmatic accessories. We feel that cumme*rbunds help promote formal wear, and help create a ceremonial divide between suits and tuxedos. As useful and accommodating as they are, hopefully this is a trend we see pick up, as our culture moves more toward dressing formally again. We feel that the cumme*rbund has an important role in all that and that it should always be waisted – never wasted.
Like what you see? Hate it? Can’t keep quiet? Well… don’t. Let us know what you think! Leave a comment below and let your voice be heard!
FAQs
As we just touched on, the original purpose of the cumme*rbund was to keep men cooler than wearing a full waistcoat. This still proves true today, of course. You'll be cooler wearing a cumme*rbund under a tuxedo than a vest. However, today the purpose of a cumme*rbund is mainly to cover the waist.
Why is it called a Cumberbund? ›
Etymology. The word cumme*rbund is the Anglicized form of Hindustani kamarband (Hindustani: कमरबंद; کمربند), which is in turn from Persian (Persian: کمربند, romanized: kamarband). It entered English vocabulary in 1616 from India. It is a combination of the words kamar meaning 'waist' and band meaning 'strap' or 'lacing' ...
Is a cumme*rbund necessary? ›
Generally, you wear a cumme*rbund along with a tuxedo to black tie events. If you choose not to wear a cumme*rbund, you can wear a formal waistcoat (aka a vest) instead.
How should cumme*rbunds be worn? ›
cumme*rbunds are designed with rows of pleats that should be worn facing upwards. cumme*rbunds should be worn at your natural waist line. This means your trousers should be worn around the level of your navel and half of your cumme*rbund should be covering your shirt.
What is the history of the cumme*rbund? ›
Origins. The cumme*rbund began in India around 1850, not as formal wear necessarily, but as dining wear for British military personnel stationed there. The folks from India often wore sashes around their waist called kamarbands, kamar meaning 'waist.
How does a Cumberbund work? ›
They are pleated, with the pleats worn facing upwards. They adjust to size, thanks to a simple and discreet adjustable fastening at the back. It is said that the pleats were worn upwards in order to provide a handy slot in which to store tickets or small bills. cumme*rbunds are ordinarily worn with a bow tie.
Which way does a cumme*rbund go? ›
As with all men's accessories; there's a right and a wrong way to wear a cumme*rbund. Contrary to popular belief, cumme*rbunds are supposed to be worn with the pleats facing upwards. If you wear a cumme*rbund with the pleats facing downwards, it will be considered incorrect etiquette.
Is the cumme*rbund in style? ›
cumme*rbunds are rapidly approaching “old-fashioned” status, and we won't go out of our way to recommend you wear one. But if you must wear one, do it only with a tuxedo, and match the material of your cumme*rbund with the material of your lapels (sorry, hot pink cumme*rbunds).
How wide is a cumme*rbund? ›
cumme*rbund fits a 28 to 50 inch waist, stretches out to 50 inches around the waist, Bowtie measures 2.5 in wide and 4.5 in long, adjusts from 10 in to 19.5 in around the neck. Brief content visible, double tap to read full content.
What color should a cumme*rbund be? ›
Traditionally black in color, a tuxedo cumme*rbund is a pleated waist sash that is worn with single-breasted tuxedo jackets. While most tuxedo cumme*rbunds are black in color, other colors can also be worn including gold, burgundy, bottle green, as well as white.
Wear a cumme*rbund or vest.
Unless you're wearing a double-breasted jacket that you keep buttoned at all times, you'll likely expose your shirt. Your tux will look incomplete if you're not wearing a cumme*rbund or vest.
Where should a Cumberbund sit? ›
Today a proper cumme*rbund should be pleated and sit directly on top of the waistband of your trouser with an equal amount of space either side – it should not sit over it, nor beneath it.
Can you wear a cumme*rbund with a tie? ›
The cumme*rbund is reserved for formal occasions and is only to be worn with a single-breasted tuxedo jacket and in tandem with a bow tie. To wear a cumme*rbund with a suit or with a necktie would be considered a fashion faux pas.
What is another name for a cumme*rbund? ›
What is another word for cumme*rbund?
| girdle | belt |
|---|
| sash | cincture |
| ceinture | self-belt |
| cumberbund | waistband |
| band | obi |
20 more rowsThere are several theories about the “invention” of the tuxedo, but popular belief credits a man with a name as fancy as his creation — Pierre Lorillard IV. Pierre Lorillard was a wealthy tobacco magnate during the 19th century.
Who invented the Cumberbun? ›
The kamarband originated in ancient Persia and has been worn across Asia ever since. The kamarband features in military uniforms as well as civilian attire. The cumme*rbund came into being in the 1600s when British military officers in colonial India adopted the style.
Does a Cumberbund go over a vest? ›
The tuxedo vest is generally cut low and wide to showcase the front of your formal shirt underneath. If you go with a cumme*rbund, it should be worn at the waist, half of it covering your trousers and the other half covering your tuxedo shirt. Remember, the pleats of the cumme*rbund always point upward.
Can you wear fun socks with a tux? ›
The Case for Colorful Socks
Aside from classic plain black socks, you can choose to add a pop of color that ties the wedding colors to the outfit. Colorful socks are not just funky; if used subtly, they can marry well with your black tuxedo or suit, adding more pizazz to your wedding.
Do you need a Cumberbund with a tuxedo? ›
Generally, a cumme*rbund is traditionally worn with a tuxedo, not a dinner jacket. Due to the sense of formality that accompanies cumme*rbunds, they definitely have a tendency to make regular suits look overdone.
Does a cumme*rbund make you look slimmer? ›
The benefits of wearing cumme*rbunds are endless but in the most simple terms; they'll make your suit look more elegant. cumme*rbunds have a slimming effect because they cover the area where some men tend to have a bulge. They'll smooth your tummy out with an understated quality.
Though the cumme*rbund is a well-known part of black tie, Bond has only worn a cumme*rbund on a handful of occasions. Traditionally, one isn't wearing a cumme*rbund because he's wearing a waistcoat or a double-breasted dinner jacket, but those situations do not make up the rest of Bond's black tie outfits.
Are cumme*rbunds out of fashion? ›
cumme*rbunds are rapidly approaching “old-fashioned” status, and we won't go out of our way to recommend you wear one. But if you must wear one, do it only with a tuxedo, and match the material of your cumme*rbund with the material of your lapels (sorry, hot pink cumme*rbunds).
Can you wear a cumme*rbund with tails? ›
Do Not Wear a cumme*rbund. cumme*rbunds are appropriate to wear with a tuxedo for a black tie event, but not for a tailcoat ensemble with a tailcoat.
What color should cumme*rbund be? ›
Traditionally black in color, a tuxedo cumme*rbund is a pleated waist sash that is worn with single-breasted tuxedo jackets. While most tuxedo cumme*rbunds are black in color, other colors can also be worn including gold, burgundy, bottle green, as well as white.
What color of tuxedo is not to be worn during the day? ›
Black Tie Is Not Daytime Wear
The trend is unlikely to stop, but for people who are serious about getting their formal and semi-formal dress right, tuxedos are evening wear only. The usual rule of thumb is that you dress for the end time of an event.
Can you turn a suit into a tux? ›
No longer a necessity to own, much less rent a tuxedo, the Lapel Project allows you to turn any suit jacket into a tuxedo jacket by simply applying lapels customized from a virtually unlimited range of fabrics and designs of your own choosing.
Is James Bond suit bulletproof? ›
For Bond, a suit can not only make him look stronger, but in the case of Connery's and Craig's Bonds it can also deceive the enemy into not knowing how strong he is underneath. As far as we know, Bond's suits do not double as bulletproof armour.
What color tux does Bond wear? ›
James Bond's suits are usually solid colours - plain blacks (especially for his tuxedos), greys and midnight blues. There were also some plaids (otherwise known as Prince of Wales or Glen Checks) worn by Sean Connery. However Connery's Bond famously wore the Grey suit often and in different variations and shades.
