The Dress Code: Is the Kimono Trend Cultural Appropriation? (2024)
Dear Dismantlers, Is the kimono trend cultural appropriation?
We definitely see where this question is coming from. Kimonos — or more accurately, garments being called kimonos, on which we’ll say more later —are everywhere right now. They’re beautiful, easy to wear, and work well as a warm weather cover-up to drape over less forgiving trends — like tube tops.
Well, we have good news and bad news.
Let’s start with the bad news.
The short answer is yes, wearing the garment often does fall into the area of cultural appropriation — but not in exactly the same way as, say Victoria’s Secret using Native American “inspired” headdresses in their fashion shows. Turns out there are lots of ways to appropriate! But all cultural appropriation is really about cultural power, which put bluntly, means maintaining white supremacy. Half the Internet has already been used up talking about why it’s bad to appropriate Indigenous styles (and yet, people still do it!) so we won’t spend too much time on it.
But the short version is that turning garments specific to the sacred traditions of living cultures into undifferentiated adornment perpetuates myths like 1. Indigenous cultures are interchangeable 2. They’re a charming relic from the past so they’re no longer political or religious 3. European colonists weren’t guilty of genocide; they “saved” native culture by appreciating how artistic it is! It’s all around a bad look.
But wait, you say, I’m American! I never colonized Japan. And kimonos aren’t sacred. There’s no power imbalance there, so we’re good, right? Actually, not only did the U.S. occupy Japan after World War II, we put Japanese-American citizens in internment camps. Emi Ito explains beautifully how “fashion” kimonos erase the garment’s particular history and contributes to erasing Japanese-American experience here.
But we also want to think about the bodies we mainly see wearing and advertising this style right now. The vast majority are young, white, thin, and feminine. The problem we see with this is its relationship to a long history of associating “Asianness” with femininity and leisure. This is one of the enduring stereotypes of Orientalism. Europeans began wearing “oriental” dress as indoor, leisure or sleepwear almost as soon as they started colonizing “The East” (“pajamas” is an anglicized Hindustani word).
Nineteenth-century painters like John Singer Sargent and William Merritt Chase couldn’t stop making portraits of pale, sleepy women dozing in “exotic” silk robes. This was part of a “craze” for all things Japanese that started in the U.S. and Europe after 1853, when Japan agreed to trade relations with America. Which sounds nice! Americans could finally buy Japanese stuff and they appreciated it. But that trade agreement happened because the U.S. pointed a fleet of warships at Japan and said, basically, “trade with us or we’ll blow up your country.” So those boneless kimono-ed ladies flopping over on velvet couches were also a celebration of Western dominance — of the next victory after the U.S. achieved “manifest destiny.”
In the mid-twentieth century, kimonos became popular again as signifiers for a “certain kind” of white lady during World War II. The kind of white woman who got expensive gifts from GIs and spent a lot of time in her boudoir — she wore kimonos. This was happening at a time when Japanese-Americans couldn’t safely wear the same garment.
In all of these cases the kimono worked to reinforce white supremacy and patriarchy at the same time. Asianness and femininity are both shown as passive, self-indulgent, and lesser (and therefore in need of bourgeois white men’s stern but loving guidance). Meanwhile, Sargent’s floppy, pink-cheeked lasses and Tennessee Williams’ wilting Southern belles wore kimonos to underscore their whiteness. Imagine a Japanese Blanche Dubois. The kimono would mean something else entirely. (PS “Blanche” literally means white.)
And now in anglo markets, a clothing style that was worn by men and women is sold as a feminine accessory. This is complicated by the fact that, as many cultures adopted to the nation state model of government, femininity became linked to “tradition.” So women often were expected to keep dress traditions alive while men adopted Western clothes. And the kimono itself was invented in the nineteenth century (based, of course, on earlier traditions) to preserve Japanese culture against encroaching Western influences.
Anyway, I know…it’s a bummer because kimonos really are gorgeous.
So here is the good news!
The question of cultural appropriation is much more complicated than we can fully address here. However we do have some suggestions for how to meaningfully engage with this history.
First, we are very wary of “stay in your lane” culture. Saying that people should only ever wear clothes that match their cultural heritage sounds kinda like something the Aryan Nation would approve of. Of course, we’re equally unimpressed by lazy arguments for “appreciation” and “inspiration.” So what’s a non-Japanese descended person to do? First, don’t call any loose and vaguely “oriental” robe a kimono. Do your homework and know what a kimono actually is. In fact, this is something we see as positive with this trend. Most people who aren’t Katy Perry or Kim Kardashian know that a kimono is a garment of Japanese origin. And that can be the beginning of real education and using fashion to debunk, rather than perpetuate, stereotypes. The upside of this trend is that provides opportunities for actualinformed appreciation and knowledge circulation.
Our second suggestion is the same as always — listen first and then collaborate. Instead of “being inspired” by Japanese styles, work with and buy Japanese designers. If you can’t do that, maybe just buy a flowery robe?
So, we’re not saying to get rid of your kimono. But understand the history you’re invoking when you wear it — and that this history will be different depending on what kind of body takes it up. Also understand that undoing this history will take a lot more than making a choice about whether or not to wear a particular item of clothing. However, as we’ve seen, it’s a starting point to understanding how contemporary power dynamics are connected to a longer history, which points us to ways we can start to unravel the past and weave a better future.
If you’re looking for more resources to engage with Japanese and Japanese-American fashion, culture, and history, Kelly Corcoran, PhD in Linguistics from UC Davis, provided us with “some English language resources for the kimono community for anyone interested in waf*cku or traditional Japanese clothing.” According to Corcoran, “The modern kimono industry heavily promotes to the global fashion community.” As does “the Japanese government to an extent, as part of a larger “Cool in Japan” export tourism push.”
Some resources:
SF Japantown not only has shops selling traditional waf*cku but also brands like Sou Souwhich sell clothing with traditionally inspired silhouettes.
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It is generally not considered cultural appropriation to wear a kimono as a non-Japanese person. However, this answer does depend on the circ*mstance in which you are wearing it.
It is OK for anyone to wear a kimono. I have an authentic Yukata (a lighter summer casual kimono), if I wear it the proper way, would it be considered culture insensitive for Halloween costume? Go for it! And as a Japanese I won't object if you did it completely "wrong" - creativity adds to culture.
Meaning 'the thing to wear', the term kimono was first adopted in the mid-19th century. Originally worn by commoners, or as an undergarment by the aristocracy, from the 16th century kimono became the principal item of dress for all classes and both sexes.
If you're doing it as a cosplay, duh, it's not. Unless you're intending to culturally appropriate Japanese culture, probably not. But, if you're going to wear a kimono, ALWAYS put the left side in front.
When wearing a Kimono, you are expected to wear a “hadajuban” and “koshimaki” directly on your naked skin (the “juban” comes over those). Traditionally, you don't wear panties, but nowadays most women do. Men's kimono does not have holes under the arms.
However, throughout the general public, kimonos and yukatas are not worn in day to day life or with such frequency. Instead, they may be worn during special occasions such as festivals and holidays.
Don't dress up as a stereotype of an entire culture
When thinking about what to be for Halloween, cross “whole groups of people” off of the brainstorming list. If your costume is a general stereotype of a cultural group of people, it is cultural appropriation.
Nowadays, Japanese people rarely wear kimono in everyday life, reserving them as haregi (formal clothing) for occasions including wedding ceremonies, funerals, and university graduation ceremonies. They are also worn for tea ceremonies and other special events, such as summer festivals and tanabata.
The kimono is the traditional dress of Japan. It's got long sleeves and reaches from the shoulders all the way down to one's heels. Different types of kimono are worn depending on the occasion; kimonos for everyday wear are a lot simpler than those for formal occasions.
Kimono is the national attire of Japan, that is worn by both men and women. Isn't it fascinating to have a gender-neutral dress with a unique style of its own? Here is our guide to kimono for you: How it looks, its history and evolution.
Kimonos really are versatile. As well as a lightweight jacket, cardigan, robe, and dressing gown, we think they work brilliantly as a swimsuit cover-up.
If, like us, you're a fan of boho style, a winning bet is to wear your kimono with a fitted or straight dress to create a contrast of volumes. If you are looking for a slimming effect, opt for a plain and skin-skimming dress underneath, and wear your kimono open.
Kimono are now most frequently seen at summer festivals, where people frequently wear the yukata, the most informal type of kimono; however, more formal types of kimono are also worn to funerals, weddings, graduations, and other formal events.
Wedding guests can wear kimono at both western and Shinto-style weddings. The parents of the bride or groom can also wear black or any dark color kimono at their son or daughter's wedding. Also, young unmarried women prefer to wear bright color furisode and older guests generally wear dark-solid color Kimonos.
A kimono isn't designed to be a revealing outfit. For many people, that's great! It keeps your arms and legs fully covered. But if you want to show some skin in your kimono, there's no need to rip the front open.
The Japanese people didn't wear bras or underwear in the past. They wore Hadajyuban (肌襦袢) and Susoyoke (裾よけ) just to hide their skin and body shape. Nowadays, many people hesitate to obey the so-called "No Bra, No Underwear" rule, they normally wear ordinary bras and underwear.
Men wearing kimono may sit with their legs crossed, but women should not, as it would expose the legs. When sitting in a chair, make sure that your kimono is tucked under your bottom nicely, so that it is not wrinkled.
Examples include sports teams using Native American tribal names or images as mascots; people not from the originating culture wearing jewelry or fashion that incorporates religious symbols such as the medicine wheel, or wearing items of deep cultural significance and status that must be earned, such as a war bonnet, ...
'Appropriation' refers to making certain choices that may hurt people belonging to a certain race, ethnicity, community, etc. For instance, if you wear the traditional attire of another country simply to make a fashionable statement, it is appropriating that culture.
Kimono is a type of traditional Japanese clothing people wear with various accessories. Japanese people generally wear it as formal wear and on special occasions with an obi belt.
Can tourists wear kimonos in Japan? Yes, tourists can hire and wear kimonos in Japan. Locals don't mind when foreigners wear one (some are even amused when they see tourists donning them!).
Dressing up as a Native American is never appropriate. For years, classrooms across the country have included special days where students "dress up" as Native Americans for different celebrations and lesson activities. Often, the outfits people wear to look "Indian" have nothing to do with Native people and cultures.
It's not, yes, that's correct, but that's simplifying things. Some people call it racist because it's close to the territory of cultural appropriation. However, it doesn't fall into that category. It's not racist to dress up as a character.
And that means this is a great time to talk about how some costumes might seem like a great idea, but actually hurtful to many people because they are a form of cultural appropriation. Below we assembled some documentaries about the topic of cultural appropriation and the awesomeness of cosplay all year round.
There are no rules about when you can and can't wear a kimono. Don't forget kimono were still worn daily in Japan by most people just a few decades ago, so kimono are really just normal clothing.
A kimono made by Japanese company Chiso can take over six months to make and can cost over $10,000. Here's why it's so expensive. About 20 artisans are involved in the making of a single kimono, which can take anywhere from six to 12 months to complete. The labor is reflected in the price.
Later, some of the kimono motifs were even inspired by Western art. Around the 1920s, affordable ready-to-wear kimonos (meisen) became very popular and reflected a more Westernized lifestyle. These were sold in department stores modeled on Western retailers, following Western-style marketing strategies.
Men's kimono are often in subdued natural tones like navy, brown, or black, emphasising the material itself rather than elaborate patterns. If you find a thinner men's kimono with more patterns and colors, then you're probably looking at a yukata. An alternative to the yukata for men to wear in the summer is jinbei.
obi, wide sash or belt made of satin or a stiff silk material, worn since ancient times in Japan to secure the kimono. A woman's obi is about 12 feet (370 cm) long and 10 inches (25 cm) wide; a man's obi is about three-fourths as long and one-sixth as wide.
The black color is often used in Japanese Kimono to represent power and elegance. The black fabric of a kimono is often used to represent femininity and beauty in Japan. The color's deep shade was originally created as an alternative for cherry blossom flowers, which were not available during winter months.
“Kimono” the Japanese national costume, originated from China. About 14000 years ago, during the Asuka era (around 600 to 700), the Kimono was introduced with Buddhism. At that time, Kimonos were worn by some aristocrats as a political strategy. By wearing the Kimono they were showing their faith in Buddhism.
There was a black kimono called Kuro-bikifurisode (黒引き振袖 Black long hanging sleeve). From the latter half of the Edo period to the early Showa era, it was said that black was the most prestigious bridal dress among the Hikifurisode that was commonly used.
When wearing a kimono, you are expected to wear a "hadajuban" and "koshimaki" directly on your naked skin (the "juban" comes over those). Traditionally, you don't wear panties, but nowadays most women do.
There's a very good reason why kimono-style tops and jackets are so loved by plus size women. The fit is relaxed but the pieces aren't shapeless. They can be voluminous, but with the intentionality that makes it fashion.
In Edo period Japan, the colour red signified youth and glamour. The benibana dye faded quickly, so the colour became symbolic of mad, passionate love that is all consuming but fleeting.
To get straight to the point: As long as a kimono is worn out of respect and appreciation of the Japanese culture, it's perfectly fine to wear a kimono as a foreigner.
It is considered tacky if your neckline is showing too much during formal settings. However, a deep neckline can be acceptable at less formal dinner parties. Unlike dresses, kimono doesn't show cleavage.
In short, you will not be viewed as 'stealing' Japanese culture if you wear a kimono and you are respectful when doing so. In fact, many Japanese would be pleased to see you wear a kimono as it demonstrates your passion for Japanese culture.
Now the big question… Can foreigners wear kimono? Or is this cultural appropriation? To get straight to the point: As long as a kimono is worn out of respect and appreciation of the Japanese culture, it's perfectly fine to wear a kimono as a foreigner.
Although relatively limited in form, kimono is considered a national heritage and a fashion item, with variations in textiles, patterns, weaving and dyeing techniques, sleeve lengths, and obi.
However, throughout the general public, kimonos and yukatas are not worn in day to day life or with such frequency. Instead, they may be worn during special occasions such as festivals and holidays. One such occasion is the Seijin no hi, a celebration of the transition to adulthood when people turn 20 years old.
They like that people outside of Japan appreciate their culture, even if they wear kimonos in a non-traditional manner. So no it is not dumb or disrespectful to wear a kimono as jacket and plus it is your home, so why does it matter what other people think? Just be you.
Can tourists wear kimonos in Japan? Yes, tourists can hire and wear kimonos in Japan. Locals don't mind when foreigners wear one (some are even amused when they see tourists donning them!).
Eventually, however, the complexity of kimono-wearing and the cumbersome sandals they required became a hindrance. The kimono fell out of fashion during the Meiji Period (1868-1912), when the government encouraged people to adopt Western clothing styles.
There are different types of kimono for men, women, and children, varying based on the occasion, the season, the wearer's age, and – less commonly in the modern day – the wearer's marital status.
The haori (羽織) is a traditional Japanese hip- or thigh-length jacket worn over a kimono. Resembling a shortened kimono with no overlapping front panels (okumi), the haori typically features a thinner collar than that of a kimono, and is sewn with the addition of two thin, triangular panels at either side seam.
Kimono is Japanese traditional & unique dress showing the Japanese sense of fashion. Let's explore the origin of kimono. Japanese kimono (in other words, ”gof*cku”) derived from the garments worn in China during the Wu dynasty.
Introduction: My name is Frankie Dare, I am a funny, beautiful, proud, fair, pleasant, cheerful, enthusiastic person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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